From the department of “nice work if you can get it”…
When a Texas wine colleague suggested that we have dinner at Tony’s last night, I knew it would be a great experience as always. But I had no idea that Tony — my dear friend and client — would treat us like pashas.
The truffles are so good this year: the rainy, cool summer in Langa (Piedmont) delivered a generous bounty.
When the waiter presented and remove the lid from the rice-lined truffle dome, it was as if a cartoon smoke hand gestured toward me saying, “come hither!”
I’ve had the great fortune over the years to taste Alba truffles on many occasions but this is definitely a stand-out crop, with powerful aromatic character and rich flavor.
Tony served them over a dish of homemade taglierini tossed in Parmigiano Reggiano.
And what better to pair them with than ten-year-old Giacosa Barolo Croera di La Morra (below), a wine from a great vintage when Bruno Giacosa was still working closely with Dante Scaglione. It showed beautifully imho and has many years ahead of it.
Tony, my goodness, thank you! You are too generous! That was one of the best meals of my year… unforgettable! Thank you!
Please check out my post today for the CanteleUSA blog on hybrid tautology in ancient Italy and how it supports the “black black” theory for the origins of the grape name Negroamaro.
Above: I brought handmade tortillas, canned salsas, pickled jalapeños, and black beans with me on my recent trip to Italy. The quality of the photo reflects the brio of “taco night” at bromance Giovanni’s house in Brescia.
From a cultural perspective, Mexican and Italian cuisines have a lot in common. Both are “world” cuisines. In other words, they both represent gastronomic traditions that have traveled beyond their original borders and woven themselves into the fabric of cookery across the globe.
When I first moved to New York City in 1997, it was tough to find a decent taco there. But today, Mexican restaurants — high concept and fast food — are as ubiquitous as pizza by-the-slice.
Despite its popularity throughout the world, la cocina mexicana still hasn’t caught on in Italy, except for a spattering of low-quality pseudo-Mexican joints that cater to foreign students in university towns there.
With two trips to Texas and California under his belt, my bromance in Brescia Giovanni Arcari has had the opportunity to sample some of my favorite authentic Mexican as well as Tex Mex and Mission-style cookery.
So it was only natural that I would pack some handmade flour tortillas from Central Market in Austin, cans of my favorite commercial salsas (Herdez), pickled jalapeños, and black beans in my bag to share with my friends in Brescia where I stayed for five nights.
Above: what did we pair with our chicken Asiago tacos on a chilly night in Brescia? Giovanni’s Franciacorta and Ferdinando Principiano’s Barolo, of course!
For the taco filling, Giovanni griddle-fired chicken breasts and he sautéed some onions.
But because we didn’t have access to the appropriate queso, we decided to grate up some Asiago. And we were pleasantly surprised by how well it worked with the dish.
On hand to enjoy the new Chicken Asiago Taco were Brescia deputy mayor Laura Castelletti, who also serves as the superintendent of culture for the city, and sommelier, novelist, and journalist Adua Villa.
My time spent with Laura and Adua in Brescia was extraordinary and I have much to report on our conversations and visit.
But for now, I’ll merely reveal that Venezuelan-born Adua and I share a passion for la música ranchera and we ended the night listening, despite Giovanni’s protests, to multiple versions of “Canción Mixteca.”
People around the world know Dario Cecchini, above, the celebrity butcher from Panzano in Chianti in the heart of Chianti Classico. He’s a Tuscan original and a Tuscan classic. A poet and reciter of poetry. A world-class, innovative butcher and a steadfast defender of Tuscan tradition.
What a lot of folks may not know is that if you stop by his stop in Panzano at lunchtime, you’ll be handed a small glass of Chianti and invited to help yourself to bread, salame, and rendered spiced lard to be spread over bread rounds (in the case above).
Of course, if you’re not having lunch in his restaurant next door, you should purchase something.
I told Dario that I was heading north the next day and that I wanted to buy something unusual to give as a gift to my colleague in Brescia.
He turned down the AC/DC that was blaring on the stereo (no joke) and suggested that I buy some “tonno del Chianti” or “Chianti tuna.”
It’s pig thigh, he told me, that’s been cooked like olive oil-cured tuna.
The next night when I gave it to Giovanni (who, together with Arianna, was hosting at his apartment for hamburgers and Franciacorta), Arianna told us that she had tasted the “tuna” previously at a high-concept charcuterie wine bar in Brescia province. And so she knew how to serve it.
She dressed it just like you would olive oil-cured tuna and plated with chickpeas and slivers of cipolle rosse di Tropea.
It was delicious and paired beautifully with a slice of crusty ciabatta and some artisanal beer that had been given to Giovanni.
I don’t really know Cecchini other than the few times I’ve stopped by his butcher shop. But it’s been amazing to follow his career as he continues to riff on Tuscan tradition.
And wow, who knew that AC/DC paired so well with a glass of Sangiovese and some spicy rendered lard?
Business-wise, my two-week trip to Italy had been so successful (and I was so fried from the experience) that I decided to treat myself and cash in some miles for an upgrade on United from Malpensa to Newark.
When I spied a bottle of Vajra — one of my favorite Langa producers — on the beverage cart, I just had to have a glass.
It was winery’s 2009 Barbera d’Alba and it was fresh and vibrant in the glass, despite its age. Just like the family who makes them, the wines from Vajra are always earnest, honest, and elegant. And this was no exception. It paired beautifully with curried chicken and tandoori rice at 40,000 ft.
So much more to tell about my trip, the wines I tasted, the meals I shared, and the people I met. But this is all I have time for today as I try to get back on track with work etc… Stay tuned!
This trip to Italy has been one of the best and one of the toughest I’ve ever made.
Tough because it was so hard to be away from my family for so long and tough because I was forced to make some hard choices about my business and the people I work with.
But it was also a great trip: business has never been better and the meals on this journey have been exceptional.
There’s still so much to tell but it will all have to wait until next week when I’m back at my desk and back on track.
As I wind up the trip in the meantime, I’ll think about the Barbi Vin Santo and the ricciarelli (classic Sienese cookies) that my good friend Francesco Bonfio served us yesterday at the Nannini café and shop in the historical center of Siena where he runs its wine program.
Dulcis in fundo… only a few days on the road stand between me and my sweet daughters and loving wife and partner Tracie P in Houston.
Thanks for letting me share the experience with you. I’ll see you next week.
I had a blast at the Nino Franco thirtieth anniversary tasting and party last night in Valdobbiadene with Primo Franco (who was amazing).
More on the festivities later but just had to share the above photo: my first kiss with the 2014 vintage in Italy.
It was fascinating to hear the Nino Franco enologists Giulio and Luca talk about the challenges of the harvest.
They’re going to make good and even great wines with this vintage. But, as nearly every winemaker has told me, Herculean efforts in the vineyards are what will make the difference.
“The wines are great,” said Roberto Anselmi, who also attended the party. “But I’ve never had to work harder in my life.”
What a blast to get to eat at Simone Padoan’s cutting-edge pizzeria I Tigli in San Bonifacio in Soave township last night! That’s Simone (above, left) with Lisa Anselmi, who treated us to a wonderful dinner at this fantastic restaurant.
Simone is a mother yeast master and he uses different mothers to create a wide variety of flatbreads inspired by the various regions of Italy. The doughs are baked (and sometimes steamed) first and then the toppings are added.
That’s burrata and tomato, above.
Scallops and chanterelles. This was my favorite but they were all over-the-top good.
I Tigli is also an epicenter for the artisanal and natural beer movement in Italy, with a thick list of super groovy labels. This was our table’s favorite label of the night. Continue reading →
¡Qué lejos estoy del suelo donde he nacido!
inmensa nostalgia invade mi pensamiento;
y al verme tan solo y triste cual hoja al viento,
quisiera llorar, quisiera morir de sentimiento.
¡Oh Tierra del Sol! Suspiro por verte
ahora que lejos yo vivo sin luz, sin amor;
y al verme tan solo y triste cual hoja al viento,
quisiera llorar, quisiera morir de sentimiento.
When a Texas wine colleague suggested that we have dinner at Tony’s last night, I knew it would be a great experience as always. But I had no idea that Tony — my dear friend and client — would treat us like pashas.
Do Bianchi