See you on the other side…
See you on the other side…
Every time Sotto brings me to Los Angeles to work on our wine list, general manager Christine Veys and I try to break away to check out one of the new restaurants on LA’s vibrant food scene.
On Tuesday evening, after tasting roughly 30 wines with 6 different sales reps, we headed to my friend David Rosoff’s newly opened Moruno in the West Hollywood Farmer’s Market (a haunt of my youth).
That’s the absolutely delicious albacore tuna conserva in the photo above.
The menu is inspired by Spanish and Middle Eastern cookery and is delivered mostly in small plates and on skewers (as David put it, a moruno is “meat on a stick”).
We had a wide variety of dishes, including the roast butternut squash topped with cashews and sesame seeds, one of the guests’ and staff’s favorites, David said.
And of course, we sampled both the chicken and lamb morunos.
Everything was truly fantastic and it was great to see his energetic team working in the kitchen with such focused skill and decisive sense of mission.
But the thing that really blew me away about the experience was how good I felt the next day (sparing you the details, I’ll presume you know what I mean).
Whenever I travel for my work (and this year, I already have four trips to Italy and visits to New York, Miami, Santa Barbara, Boston, and LA under my belt), one of the greatest challenges I face is the combination of fatigue and distressed digestion (I’ll leave it at that).
Even though Christine and I really dug into our meal with gusto at Moruno, my “day after” was bright and sunny, as it were.
Maybe it was thanks to the superb Grenache Blanc by Cellar Frisach from southern Spain that made the difference. Zinging acidity in this hillside wine from the high lands, vibrant fruit and great balance, with restrained alcohol. I really dug it, especially at just $45 a bottle.
David, from one Jew to another, I LOVE your restaurant. The ultimate mark of a great meal is how you feel the next day and man, I woke up ready to go… as it were…
In other news…
My goodness, what a lovely night at Sotto last night where we launched our new wine list with a guided tasting of five new wines by-the-glass!
I can’t tell you how many times I lead tastings where guests show up only wanting to tell me about how they once visited Gaja.
Last night’s group was one of the best and most fun that I’ve ever tasted with: a very gracious ensemble of wine lovers who asked informed questions and shared thoughtful impressions of the wines. Thank you, everyone, for joining me.
And super heartfelt thanks to Christine for being such a great friend and colleague and for believing in my crazy reboot of our list (which I love).
And I also have to give a shout-out to my Texas family who surprised me by showing up at the tasting unannounced and staying for dinner. It was so fun to connect with them in LA and wonderful to know that I have family that supports me in what I do for a living. What a thrill for me to see Aunt Gladys enjoying my wine selections!
Now it’s time to get my butt back on a plane for Houston and some much needed downtime with Tra and the girls… Thanks for being here.
Posting from the plane on my way to Los Angeles where we will be launching my new wine list at Sotto this week. I’m happy/sad to report that tomorrow night’s preview tasting at the restaurant is sold out.
But I will be at the restaurant all evening on Wednesday: please stop by and let’s drink some Schioppettino and Vitovska and munch on Chef Steve’s awesome Neapolitan-style pizza! Seriously, I’ll be hanging out all evening.
And I have just a few spots left for the guided Franciacorta tasting I’ll be leading in Chicago week after next. It’s free and we already have a great group of wine professionals who will be attending. I literally have 4 seats left so please email at your earliest convenience to ensure availability. Thanks for your support and looking forward to tasting with you!
Franciacorta Real Story Tasting
Monday, June 6, 2016
Perman Wine Selections
802 W Washington Blvd.
Chicago, IL 60607
Monday, June 6, 6:00 p.m.
11 Franciacorta wines
please RSVP by emailing Jeremy: firstname.lastname@example.org
Taste 11 Franciacorta wines with Jeremy Parzen, Ph.D. author of DoBianchi.com.
Franciacorta is a classic-method sparkling wine produced using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc in the foothills of the Alps in Brescia province, Italy (about an hour east of Milan by car). Since the 1960s, winemakers there have made some of Italy’s (and the world’s) most coveted sparkling wines thanks to the area’s unique growing conditions, including: The wide variety of morainic, limestone, and clay subsoils of the Franciacorta amphitheater; the maritime influence of Lake Iseo to the north (part of Italy’s beautiful Lake District); and the Alpine climate of their high-lying vineyards. Because Franciacorta growers are able to achieve greater ripeness than their counterparts in other sparkling wine regions and because they have a wider diversity of soil types, their wines stand apart from their transalpine cousins for their remarkable freshness, rich fruit character, and signature minerality (some would call it salinity).
What a joyous day for this proud daddy yesterday when Georgia P performed in her first big dance recital at the Stafford Centre theater in southwest Houston!
She was part of the ensemble performance by her four-year-olds class at the Banbury School of Dance (located in our neighborhood, Westbury; they did a fantastic job of producing this show, btw).
That’s my little ballerina with her mother, above!
Man, can you imagine the lump in my throat and the pounding in my chest as we waited patiently in the audience for her big stage debut!
And lo and behold, she took the stage with that gorgeous smile on her face and unbridled confidence in her steps.
Georgia P, I couldn’t have been more proud! The stage lights, the packed house, and a sizable cast of talented dancers: you handled yourself like a pro, my sweet, sweet girl!
And Lila Jane, you had so much fun cheering your sister on!
You sat so patiently through the dress rehearsal and the show. By the end of last night’s performance, you were performing the moves in the aisle!
Tracie P, thank you for giving us these beautiful girls. You gave them your big heart and your brilliant smile.
And you have given me a dream life that I never could have imagined until I came here to Texas to be with you.
I love you all so much…
Today, a guest post by my cherished friend Nico Danesi…
“If this world’s all for the winners, what’s for the losers?”
“Well, somebody’s got to hold the horses.”
Before I first crossed the Atlantic, there was a man who brought me to America. He took me there without ever going.
He took me to places where America is colored by the exasperated reflections of legend and contention, where poetry is fragmented into hallucinatory but vivid images, unreal only in the eye of those who believe in proclamations and don’t know how to listen to humanity in pain, imperfect but beautiful nonetheless.
Sam Peckinpah’s ugly mugs and Altman’s moonstruck players. Arthur Penn’s humble heroes and Cimino’s emarginated immigrants. Coppola and Scorsese’s Italians. Hal Ashby’s unknowns and Monte Hellman’s taciturn characters but also the Beat provocateurs and especially the hyperbolic jazzers with their impossible solos as long as a long illness is long.
If, in her or his propaedeutic arc, a functional wine drinker sets out as an “Absolute Beginner” drinking the “bestest wines” of the world, would she or he understand them?
Surely, she or he would be hard-pressed to describe them or offer commentary but she or he would surely enjoy them. Such enjoyment would come in brilliant flashes and would deliver a deep well of wonderment upon which the most solid of foundations could rest.
I believe the same holds for artistic expression as in music, cinema, poetry, and literature.
As a child, I was nourished by an uncle who was more like a friend and big brother. He fed me words and magical images that drifted inside of me as they evoked a limpid but also often terrible America.
Honestly, despite everything I’ve read about Venissa and the wine that is grown and raised there (above), I couldn’t really wrap my mind around the place and the project until I visited there recently with Adam Japko’s Design and Wine Tour.
I’ve known Matteo Bisol for years, since I first met him in Texas in 2009. And over the years, we’ve become friends thanks to our shared interest in wine (his family is a legacy producer of Prosecco) and poetry (he and his family were intimate friends and patrons of the great Veneto poet Andrea Zanzotto).
In 2008, the Bisol family replanted a historic vineyard on the Venetian island of Mazzorbo in 2008, using a local clone of Garganega called Dorona.
The vineyard had lay fallow since the great flood of 1966 (see the newsreel below).
Once the water had subsided, Matteo explained to me when I visited a few weeks ago, there was scarce interest in replanting. Although the site had produced wine for hundreds of years (stretching back to the Middle Ages), Italy’s economic boom of the 1960s was luring erstwhile farmers to the newly emerged industrial sector on the mainland.
Even if there had been interest in reviving the growing site, it would taken years before the soils would have been purged of elevated levels of salt in the soils owed to the severe flooding.
Today, the Bisol family uses the same drainage system that has been in place in the vineyards for generations.
Seawater flooding is inevitable, explained Matteo (that’s Matteo and me in the photo above). But it is manageable in part because the Dorona grape seems to have adapted to the environment and conditions where it is grown.
As you walk through the small vineyard there, with its wild grasses growing high between the rows, you can’t help but breathe in its robust health and life. It’s a remarkable experience and an entirely unique one. There’s really nowhere else in the world where something like this does or could exist.
Mazzorbo island is one in the group of the oldest Venetian settlements, dating back to the Longobard invasions of the late Roman era. Torcello is the most famous of these.
The Bisol family has done a superb job of preserving the viticultural legacy there: an island vineyard planted with a historic and entirely unique clone of Garganega that most likely evolved in situ.
At dinner that night at the Michelin-starred Venissa restaurant, our group of roughly 30 persons had the opportunity to taste the wine.
It’s vinified in an elegantly macerated style. I liked it a lot: it showed great depth and nuance in its layers of flavor and I was impressed by its surprising freshness and fruit character on the nose.
It’s not cheap. Bottles can be had through private channels for around 120 Euros. The bottles are adorned with a gold leaf label intended to evoke the wine’s color and name: Dorona is believed to come from uva d’oro or golden grape.
But to my mind, the quality or value of the wine is not what’s important. What’s significant in my view is that this wine, a true wine sui generis, exists and has a sustainable structure in place that will preserve its future and legacy.
This example of extreme viticulture on a tiny island off the mainland reveals so much about Italy’s place in the world of wine and the country’s unrivaled ability to produce singular expressions of vitis vinifera.
When in Venice, if only a day trip to walk the gorgeous vineyard and see the drainage system, the journey is well worth the time on the water. Mazzorbo is easily reachable, btw, by public transportation and the vineyards are always open to anyone who cares to read their rows.
Thank you again, Matteo, for a wonderful visit and this precious chapter of Italian wine so intelligently preserved and thoughtfully presented.
That’s David Keck, left, owner and wine director at Camerata and Houston’s newest Master Sommelier, with Elaine Brown, wine writer and blogger, who visited us earlier this year.
The news just broke: David has passed his Master Sommelier exams in Aspen!
Mazel tov, man! Nobody does it better and no one deserved it more.
Congratulations and thanks for bringing it back to the Bayou City, dude! Great news!
Above: “chiare, fresche, e dolci acque” (“clear, cool, and fresh waters”). Does anyone remember the famous song by my beloved Petrarch? For those who don’t, it’s canzone 126. The view of the Natisone River, above, from the Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli, reminded me of the poem when I visited a few weeks ago.
Five years ago, when we held our first staff training at Sotto before the restaurant opened, the team looked at me like I was crazy.
How on earth were we going to sell wines made from grapes like Aglianico, Falanghina, Gaglioppo, Pallagrello, and Tintilia when our prospective guests had probably never even heard of them let alone knew how to pronounce them?
I’ve known owner and executive chef Steven Samson since we spent our UC junior year abroad together in Italy back in 1987-88. He had asked me to create an all southern Italian wine list. I loved the challenge and I knew that southern Italian wine — from white to red and every color in between — offered all the goods we needed to deliver a world-class carta dei vini. I also knew that it was going to be an uphill battle to introduce Angelenos to a whole new world of wine and to overcome the stereotypes of the “north vs. south” culture war in Italian enogastronomy.
But Californians’ insatiable thirst for the unusual and exotic and their adventurous spirit in wine exploration swiftly brushed aside any prejudices our guests may have harbored. It didn’t take long before the Los Angeles Times called our list one of the “most interesting” and LA Magazine named it a one of the “best Italian wine lists” in the city.
Five years later, mission accomplished. Today, guests regularly order Gaglioppo and Aglianico with unrivaled linguistic mastery (pun intended).
As the next chapter in the history of Sotto’s wine program unfolds, we’ve decided to shift our focus beyond southern Italy to other “undiscovered” regions of Italian viticulture: Friuli in northeasternmost Italy and Liguria on the Italian riviera. Although few in America know the wines (yet!), we believe these regions produce some of the best still white wines and most compelling seafood-friendly reds in the world. They’re perfect for chef Steve’s evolving seafood menu as it will follow the seasons through summer.
I hope you can join me and Sotto’s sommelier Christine Veys on May 25 for a tasting of five of the new wines we are debuting this month at Sotto.
Chef Steve will be serving light bites as well.
In Venetian, they call it a bacaro (pronounced BAH-kah-roh, with the tonic syllable in the first position).
In Italian you might call it a cicchetteria (chee-keh-teh-REE-ah), a place where cicchetti or Venetian small bites are served.
One of the most thrilling discoveries of my recent Venetian sojourn was Lino Fritto, a new bacaro in the Venice fish market with classic and creative dishes and chic, clean-lined modernist décor.
I was so enthralled with the food the night we visited that I forgot to take pictures of the space itself.
From the sarde in saor (traditional sardines cooked and served in sweet and sour sauce and consumed whole) to the classic Venetian-style seafood salads and fried fishballs, Lino Fritto serves my favorite kind of meal (especially easy on Jewish-boy stomachs, btw).
But they also serve a wide variety of fried and puréed vegetables.
The fact that it’s set on the edge of the picturesque Venetian fish market only sweetens the salty deal.
On my friend Adam Japko’s Design and Wine tour this month, we hosted our Sunday night light dinner there and it was perfect (especially when paired with Wayne Young who was pouring and speaking about Bastianich wines).
I need to send out a special thanks to owner Marco Ferro who was so gracious in taking a cold call from some dude in Houston (that would be me) and working with me to make this happen.
And I am also sending a big Texan-style bear hug to the lovely Federica Zane who handled our party and put our evening together so seamlessly.
I had so much fun planning and attending our dinner there and I can’t wait to get back and dive right back in to one of my favorite styles of eating and my new favorite bacaro.
Why doesn’t every American city have this? Hint hint: Marco is looking for American partners…
Venice is a tough town for hungry and thirsty food and wine tourists. It’s the ultimate tourist trap, especially when it comes to the dining scene.
And let’s just be honest about it. The Venetians don’t like tourists. And that applies to Italian tourists as well.
It’s understandable. How would you feel if you actually lived in the Magic Castle at Disneyland?
The Venetians live nearly 365 days a year with a unrelenting onslaught of people, people, people… People who need a bathroom, people who don’t speak their language, people who think pizza is a dish for lunch and cappuccino a beverage to drink after dinner, people who think that Sassicaia is the only Italian wine worth drinking…
And people — egad! — who want to put grated cheese on their seafood risotto! Blasphemy to an Italian of any stripe.
The only way to get great treatment in Venice is to speak Italian with a Veneto accent (which, fortunately, is how I speak Italian). I hate to say it but it’s true. And I write this as a lover of Venice and the Veneto who spent many days studying in Venice (mostly at the Marciana library) and many evenings playing music there back when I was a grad student in Italy.
If you don’t speak Italian with a Veneto accent, try your best to be your most polite and considerate and take in everything cum granu salis as the saying goes. It just comes with the territory.
Here are some of my recent discoveries from the week I spent in Venice earlier this month. It’s the first part of a series I’ll be publishing this week on the blog.
The recently opened Local (above) is a natural wine lover’s dream.
Owner and wine director Luca Fullin honed his chops at Al Covo (previously, the only destination for natural wine folks) and now he’s opened his dream restaurant. Food is traditional seafood (fantastic) with modern touches. Expensive but worth every last cent. I really loved this place, especially the wine program.
Another great discovery for me was ABC Quadri, the Alajmo brother’s casual concept downstairs from their Michelin-starred restaurant in the historic Caffè Quadri on St. Mark’s Square.
The décor is classic 18th-century Venetian, the food was good, the service superb, and the wine list is very reasonably priced for the location. I never thought in a million years that you could get a solid and affordable meal right on Piazza San Marco. But lo and behold, ABC Quadri is the answer to this age-old conundrum.
Another place I highly recommend to you is Ai Gondolieri in Dorsoduro, which is worth the visit if only for the classic 1950s feel and look of the dining room.
People often think of Venice solely as a seafood destination. But don’t know the Venetian gastronomic canon until you have had Fegato alla veneziana, Venetian style liver, cooked with onions and white wine.
Ai Gondolieri is also a great destination for a steak if you’re in the mood for beef (something a lot of Americans crave when traveling abroad, of course).
But the two things that take this joint over the top are the wine and artisanal beer program and the overall service experience.
Barman and wine director Marco is from Udine and runs a really tight and classically focused wine program. I loved his selection of Collio wines and I loved how he had super groovy crunchy natural beer ready to pop open (this place became my afternoon/before-dinner stop).
General manager Massimiliano is a Venetian dude and not only does he keep Gondolieri humming but he also runs catering for the nearby Guggenheim museum.
These guys are top-flight pros and they make the magic happen nightly. I really loved them and this place…
On deck for tomorrow: my favorite new bacaro will blow your mind!