Category Archives: de cibo

My baby loves her some Prosciutto d’Osvaldo!

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It was with utterly ineffable joy that I witnessed Tracie P experience her first taste of Prosciutto d’Osvaldo — arguably the top “cult prosciutto” of Friuli — last night at Valter Scarbolo’s Frasca in Pavia di Udine last night.

In Italian, you might say that both of us are prosciutto-dipendenti (prosciutto-addicted) and sadly prosciutto-deprived when at home in the U.S., where good prosciutto often makes the Atlantic-crossing but is then tragically missliced (is that a neologism?).

Conversation on the ideological nature of restaurateurship with Valter was almost as thrilling as his food, like this artichoke soup, made with Apulian artichokes, a touch of creamed potatoes (no cream) to impart the desired texture and consistency, and garnished with a butterflied shrimp from the Adriatic.

Fricorgrasm, anyone? No time today to discuss the nuances of potato and Montasio frico this morning. But let it suffice to say that more than one o my G-d was uttered.

I love the way the Friulians (unlike the Veneti) use onions (in this case and braised chicory in others) to dress their boiled salame with grilled polenta.

There’s so much more to tell but it will just have to wait. Off to Collio this morning and then Trieste. Stay tuned…

Anniversary dinner at Al Covo in Venice: fantastica… ma FANTASTICA!

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For our anniversary dinner, Tracie P said she wanted to eat seafood and so after much consultation and discussion with friends and colleagues, we decided on Al Covo.

We started with the mixed seafood appetizer: baby squid, shrimp and prawns, clams, and snails. Delicious…

I managed to snag the last portion of handmade noodles dressed with granceola (spider crab) and its corallo or “coral”: pink roe, a delicacy that you find only at this time of year when the crabs mate. Unbelievable…

Tracie P had the cod with prunes and potatoes.

The potatoes had been cooked in the tocio or jus of the fish and their starch had imparted a wonderfully delicate and creamy texture to the sauce. This was simply one of the best fish dishes I’ve ever tasted… Stunning confluence of flavors and textures…

We drank an 07 Malvasia by Zidarich and after our meal we munched on cheese and sipped an 06 Recioto di Soave by Fasoli. I can’t think of a better meal to have here…

Owner Cesare offered us a Capovilla distillate (such beautiful, delicate aroma) and with bellies full and warmed by the excellent brandy, we made our way back to our hotel across a deserted and chilly Piazza San Marco, the Basilica of St. Mark and her mosaics watching over us like a fairy godmother, and we tumbled into each other’s arms and into bed…

Do Bianchi! E cicheti… Enoteca Cantinone, Dorsoduro (Venezia)

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Lunch was “do bianchi” (two ombre of white wine) and cicheti at Enoteca Cantinone.

Gelateria Lo Squero is right next door.

Osteria al Cacciatore, Cison di Valmarino (Treviso)

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in the land of Prosecco… just up the hill from Rolle…

Osteria al Cacciatore… “dove fanno da mangiare come la zia…”

Škerk: the next big thing from Carso?

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When it comes to orange wine, “big” is a relative term… but when Tracie P and I tasted Škerk’s salty Malvazija last night with Marisa and Giorgio and Steve, we knew we were onto something big. We hear that Škerk is going to the U.S. later this month and is looking for an importer. There is no doubt in my mind that his labels will soon join the ranks of those produced by Radikon, Gravner, Zidarich, Vodopivec, Damijan et alia. Utterly fantastic wine…

We ate at Nane della Giulia in the historical center of Padua, a restaurant where I used to have a weekly gig (no kidding!) back in my student days. Tracie P had the radicchio in saor (above).

I had the grilled horse meat salami with white polenta and cabbage. Nane della Giulia isn’t exactly a restaurant “to write home about” but it was great to revisit this historic tavern. In another era, it was at the center of Padua’s rich goliardic tradition. And wow, so many great memories of my early years as a student in Italy.

The food was good and the restaurant packed on a Saturday night. Worth it if only for the nighttime stroll through the beautiful medieval porticoes that lead to this magical neighborhood, like a scene from The Name of the Rose…

Headed today to Valdobbiadene to taste some Prosecco Colfondo: unyeasted, less-aged Glera… merrily, merrily, merrily, merrily, life is but a dream!

How saor it is to be loved by you…

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Sarde in saor, “sour” Venetian-style sardines marinated with onions, pine nuts, and raisins… and baccalà mantecato, creamed salt cod and fried polenta… at Il Calandrino, the bar annex of one of Europe’s top restaurants and home to its youngest 3-Michelin-star chef, Le Calandre, just outside of Padua.

Accompanied by Ca’ del Bosco’s NV Franciacorta Rosé… fan-friggin-tastic!

Le Calandre is a little pricey for Tracie P and me this time around (and our anniversary tomorrow in Venice is our “splurge” night). But we did take a peak at the dining room of this storied restaurant in the most unlikely of working-class neighborhoods in the outskirts of the city. So little time and so many great things to eat!

The baccalà lamps at Le Calandre’s reception. Who knew that stockfish could be so sexy?

Padua! Our first sip of Prosecco like a first kiss

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Except for a tight connection in Paris, our trip has been seamless so far: we arrived this morning in Padua (Padova), checked into our hotel, and made a beeline for the legendary Bar dei Osei, a tiny hole-in-the-wall sandwich place in the Palazzo della Ragione.

I can’t even begin to express the thrill of tasting this first sip of Prosecco with Tracie P in Padua, where I spent so many years of my life studying and playing music! It was just a clean, bright commercial Prosecco but man was it sweet on her lips… like a first kiss…

Tramezzino tonno e uovo sodo (tuna and hard-boiled egg) and tramezzino con la verdura cruda (raw vegetables), the latter a specialty of the Bar dei Osei. Isn’t it wonderful how some things never change? Took me back literally 20+ years!

Glorious radicchio! Radicchio trevigiano, radicchio di Castelfranco, radicchietto…

The signore were out and about doing their Saturday morning food shopping at the many vendors underneath the Salone, as the Palazzo della Ragione is known. You can always tell where the best stuff is to be found: just look for the lines!

She hasn’t had a chance yet, but Tracie P is excited about her first taste of sfilacci di cavallo cured, shredded horse meat.

O how I love the Veneto… We also made it to see Giotto’s Scrovegni Chapel, which I hadn’t seen since the restoration was completed. Even more stunning than when I first saw it all those years ago…

Old school eggplant “parm” with top Texas wine blogger

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Managed to catch up last week with top Texas wine blogger Russ Kane and his delightful wife Delia for some old school eggplant “parmigiano” and a Texas vs. Italy vinous showdown at the legendary Patrenella’s in Houston.

Russ is a fascinating guy and his experience as a veteran technical writer in the energy industry gives him some interesting insights into the technical side of winemaking. And when it comes to the Texas wine industry, Russ is the MAN and his blog is the top resource in the field.

Patrenella’s is as old-school Italian American as they come, a kitschy Coppola movie set with all the classics of the gastronomic category. When I asked the waiter if they had spaghetti and meatballs, he rolled his eyes and said, “did you look at the menu?”

O yeah, and the showdown? Ubi major minor cessat: see Russ’s post here.

The importance of being white fish

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Back in my graduate school days, I once delivered a paper where I mocked one of the inane catchphrases so popular in the sophomoric critical theory of that era: “Exile Egg Salad and the Exile Egg Salad of Self in Italian Literature.”

Don’t get me wrong: I love egg salad. But while I could probably live the rest of my life without eating another egg salad of self sandwich, I could not live without white fish salad.

Early yesterday morning, as the city that never sleeps continued to slumber and a snow storm covered the cityscape in white, I visited the legendary 2nd Ave. Deli.

The 2nd Ave. Deli may not be what it used to be. It’s not even on 2nd Ave. anymore. But, man, that white fish salad was awesome.

The crummy weather on the east coast yesterday left me stranded last night at the Baltimore airport on my way back to Tracie P. But, hey, when life gives you lemons you make lemonade, right?

As the saying goes, when life gives you crabs, make crab cakes.

According to the owners, Timbuktu is so-called because at one time, it lay so far from the center of town that it might as well have been as far away as the Sahara desert.

Since I moved to Texas, I’ve had a lot of great crab cakes in the Houston area. But I’m here to testify: the crab cakes at Timbuktu take the cake. The best I ever had. The creamed crab soup was also excellent on a packed Friday evening in one of the restaurant’s two immense dining rooms (there was no room in the bar, the hostess told me).

I’m not sure I would make the trip to the outskirts of Baltimore for the sake of a crab cake: thankfully, Timbuktu’s crab cakes can also be ordered frozen online.

Happily headed back to Austin and warmer weather this morning. More New York stories to come…

Nutella: first contact in 24 years

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Above: Nutella-mascarpone served on a savory crostino at Dozzino in Hoboken, New Jersey.

Ever wonder what makes the Piedmontese so nutty? No, it’s not the Nebbiolo, folks. It’s the NUTS!

Sissignore, it’s the hazelnut, nocciola in Italian, Piedmont’s most significant agricultural product and the fundamental ingredient in Nutella, a chocolate paste that would make Pietro Ferrero a very, very rich man after he introduced the creamy, purportedly aphrodisiacal stuff back in 1964 (according to the Wiki).

Above: Dozzino also does a Nutella-ricotta spread, made with locally produced cheese.

Like many young Americans who traveled to Italy for their U.C.L.A. junior year abroad, I experienced Nutella for the first time at the tender age of 19 years.

Sadly, its moreish properties led to a Nutella binge that ended badly. Very badly…

After consuming that first jar of Nutella in its entirety, I haven’t touched this form of Turkish delight since (remember Turkish delight in The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe?).

My Nutella abstinence ended yesterday at pizzeria Dozzino in Hoboken, New Jersey, where owner Marc Magliozzi (below) served it folded into locally produced mascarpone on a crostino. It was delicious. And this morning, I am happy to report no major international disturbances (if you get my drift…).

What was I doing in Hoboken, New Jersey, you ask? I’ve been in New York this week for some intense and productive meetings (more on that later) and I spent yesterday on the other bank of the Hudson river with an important client whose office is located there.

Does Hoboken need another pizzeria? Just about as much as Tracie P thinks I need another guitar!

Above: The Margherita at Dozzino was great, slightly undercooked and mushy in the middle, a litmus test for good pizza in my book.

I thoroughly enjoyed my working lunch at Dozzino where the owner and staff were super friendly, the food fresh, clean and wholesome, and the feel and design of the space inviting and fun.

About to head into another meeting in the City right now but I’ll begin posting shortly on the amazing wines I tasted this time around (1971 Gattinara Monsecco, anyone?). Stay tuned…