What they drank for Christmas, the mini-series

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Do Bianchi has received so many “what they drank for Christmas” entries. Thank you so much to everyone who sent them in! Here are a few that didn’t make the cut-off before we “went to press.”

For Tom in Chicago, “the real wine treat came two nights after Christmas when I opted for a relaxing night at home with a humble meal and a truly special wine: 2000 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca.” (Read Tom’s complete tasting notes at VinoWire.)

In San Diego, Robin and her date (I wonder who it could be?) poured some Gaja on New Year’s eve: “A 1988 Sperss which I bought off a client with a pristine cellar. Popped and poured. Fabulous nose from minute-one, not shut down at all. Dusty plum, juniper, wet earth. A little horsesweat in the mid-palate, but it integrated perfectly within 15 minutes. I checked it out this morning and James ‘Always Wrong’ Suckling gave it a 92. At least the guy’s consistent!”

Back in the Tri-State area, Tyler (aka Dr. Vino) pulled the cork on “1992 Montelena mmm, delicious!!”

Barbara and Luigi in Modena nonchalantly drank one of those life-changing wines: “And what about a Brunello di Montalcino Case Basse Soldera Riserva ’99 in the last day of the year? :)” (Luigi and I share a keen interest in Antonioni and Veneto poet Andrea Zanzotto.) That’s me with Gianfranco Soldera on his estate in September 2008 (before I lost the ‘stache!).

But it’s not all good. Just to keep a little yin in our yang, D wrote in from Florida where she and her husband spend the holidays every year with her in-laws: “For Christmas we drank some horrible California merlot and, like, Barefoot chardonnay. Not by choice. It’s FL, there are no good wines and these were selected by our Republican relatives. Oh, and a few days later, my inlaws served Boone’s Farm sangria flavor with dinner. No joke.” That’s D’s DIY cork-screw doormat above.

At Jaynes Gastropub in San Diego, the bubbles flowed freely on New Year’s Eve. That’s Erik (aka Benoit), showing off his sure and steady pour, magnum in hand.

And me and Tracie B back here in Austin? We opened a magnum Gaston Chiquet with friends to ring in the New Year.

Happy new year, everyone, everywhere! Let’s hope it’s a good one, without any fear.

What they drank for Christmas

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In keeping with a Do Bianchi tradition born last year, here are notes and images from friends from both sides of the Atlantic on what they ate and drank over the holiday season. Thanks to everyone for reading and clicking Do Bianchi this year! I’m looking forward to 2009 and grabbing life by the “longhorns.” Happy new year!

Dan (aka Jean-Luc Retard) writes that “Puro was a big hit in Scotland,” where he spent the holiday with Kate’s family. “I think I’m the only Jew who received a kilt for Xmas.” See y’all in Paris, man!

In Erbusco (Franciacorta), Giovanni drank my new favorite Franciacorta, Camossi rosé disgorged in October 2007. Giovanni is ALL ABOUT disgorgement.

Writing from Bergamo, Franco gave me a case of Nebbiolo envy. What would Freud say? Note: those are both magnums. Franco, we sure had an interesting 2008, didn’t we? What a ride! Long live Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, my friend! Un abbraccio…

“If I still have that mag of 61 Latour or 66 Lynch Bages,” chimes in David from Los Angeles. “I will photo and poo poo as I still don’t get it. I try, but I don’t get it.” David, I know, I still don’t get it either! I miss you, dude…

“My 83 year old mother faded fast post Prosecco,” wrote Ron from San Diego. “We went on to a Biondi Santi we had been holding since 98. Merry Happy.”

In Philadelphia, McDuff and family enjoyed some Champagne by Bereche, “a roaring fire, a couple of fun movies, take-out from one of my favorite spots and a single bottle to enjoy with it all.”

Biondivino in San Francisco uncorked some obligatory Paolo Bea.

“Two bottles of cheery Chidaine rosé bubbly” paired well with Howard’s menorah in the Hollywood Hills.

In Milan, Alessandro drank a wine that I love, 2001 Brunello di Montalcino by Il Paradiso di Manfredi, a wine that my friends the Marcucci brothers turned me on to.

In the borough of Brooklyn, 1999 Billiot was the wine BrooklynGuy and BrooklynLady “opened as an aperitif with friends before Christmas dinner, the night before our daughter [BrooklynBabyGirl2] was born.” Congratulations BrooklynPeople! And, Neil, thanks for all the support and the friendship this year. It meant a lot.

Jayne and Jon had a Christmas feast of “Carnitas and tomatillo à la Jayne” at their San Diego restaurant. Guys, what can I say? Thanks for helping the Jar get his groove back on in 2008. I’ll never forget this amazing year we spent together. You are the best…

Alfonso weighed in from Dallas, with something special from our home state: “We had our last bottle of 1986 Hanzell Pinot Noir… the color and the aromas and the flavors were a marriage of all the best things one would look for in a classic California red wine.”

Alfonso, what can I say? I simply cannot thank you enough for everything you did for me in 2008. You were our Galeotto and “he that wrote it” too… I love ya, man…

Among other good stuff we opened this holiday season in Austin, Tracie B and I paired a Donnafugata 2006 Ben Ryé with Mrs. B’s excellent homemade Chex mix… soooooo yummmy…

My dearest beautiful Tracie B, love of my life, what a wondrous year 2008 was. I guess that everything does happen for a reason…

Stop the presses: one more sparkling recommendation from David McDuff

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David McDuff’s Food and Wine Trail is a daily read over here at Do Bianchi: I’ve always admired David’s writing on Italian wine and I really love how he brings Italian wine into context, like this great post, “Eating Israeli, drinking Italian.”

I know he must have heard it a thousand times but indulge me: “Lay on, Macduff!”

A Do Bianchi Xmas

When Jeremy invited me to send along a note or two from the Xmas holiday season, I figured, “Sure thing!” I could just write up the Extra Brut Réserve Champagne from Bérèche et Fils, the one and only wine I savored with Christmas dinner. But nah, it’s the holidays and everyone else will write up Champagne. So how about some Italian sparklers? I could regale his readers with stories of how good the Prosecco Montello e Colli Asolani Extra Dry from Bele Casel was with my wife’s frittata (mushroom, sausage and sage) and homemade scones we served at our post-holiday brunch. Or of how well G.D. Vajra’s 2007 Moscato d’Asti worked with the cherry pie our friend baked and brought along. But nah, those are too obvious as well, too much in keeping with the Italianate leanings here at Do Bianchi.

Finally, I decided on bubbles of another kind entirely: beer. I picked up a case of Jolly Pumpkin’s “La Roja” around holiday time last year and it’s been a real pleasure to check in with a bottle periodically, to experience its evolution from sour, bright and funky early in the year to its current state—mellower, slightly less tangy and altogether refreshing. Perfect with a simple dinner of shrimp and chips after all the Christmas season feasting. Now if only I knew what I’ll be doing for New Year’s…

— David McDuff

One last “best” Champagne recommendation by BrooklynGuy

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With the arrival of BrooklynBabyGirl2, BrooklynGuy has a lot to celebrate this New Year’s. He took time out to share this last-minute Champagne recommendation for your 2009 celebration. When it comes to value and quality in Champagne, no one beats BrooklynGuy.

1999 Henri Billiot Brut, $56, Terry Theise Selections / Michael Skurnik Imports.

Billiot’s wines are really a treat. Laetitia Billiot (Henri’s granddaughter, I believe) is in charge now, and there are still fewer than 4,000 cases per year of the 5 wines Billiot makes. Located in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay in the Montagne de Reims, Billiot’s wines are comprised mostly of Pinot Noir, and the fruit is rich and joyous. The basic non-vintage Brut is typically excellent, although not cheap at almost $50. The rosé is one of the better ones I know of that is not made in the saignée method. Billiot adds still Pinot Noir from a 15 + year old solera to the blend to create the rosé, and it’s deeply complex and absolutely delicious. Cuvée Laetitia is the house’s top wine, along with the newer and in my opinion, less successful Cuvée Julie. Laetitia is also a solera wine and is, interestingly, mostly Chardonnay.

I think that when buying Billiot’s wines, it’s worth it to spend a couple more bucks to buy the vintage wines as opposed to the basic NV Brut. This one, the 1999, is the wine we opened as an aperitif with friends before Christmas dinner, the night before our daughter was born. It exceeded expectations—so graceful and controlled, such exuberant fruit, so rich and broad, yet with refined elegance. The texture is lush and fine, there is good acidity, and the finish really lingers with chalk-infused fruit fragrance. This wine has a great inner core of energetic fruit, and it’s just delicious. It will probably continue to improve with a few more years in a cold cellar. You might not be able to find the 99 on shelves now, but the 2002 is the new release and it may well surpass the 99 once it is ready to drink, in about 5-8 years.

— BrooklynGuy

Congratulations, BrooklynGuy, and thanks for sharing!

On the seventh night of Chanukah, my true love gave to me…

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I know I promised that I wouldn’t post until after the New Year, but last night’s dinner was just too good not to share…

Above: Damn, that girl can cook! Tracie B fries up some latkes in her grandmother’s cast-iron skillet.

On the seventh night of Chanukah (click for HebCal link), Nous Non Plus’ film and television licensing agent and my good friend Michael came over last night with his girlfriend Jessica for Tracie B’s latkes, brisket, kasha, and roast broccoli.

Tracie B fried the latkes in her grandmother’s cast-iron skillet. Click here for the recipe she used.

My only contribution was a sour cream and horseradish sauce. We paired with a bottle of Taittinger La Française, courtesy Jessica and Michael.

Her brisket was oh-so good, melt-in-your-mouth-tender, with sides of kasha and roast broccoli. Who knew I’d find the cure for Jewish boy stomach in Austin Texas? We paired with Bruno Colin 2005 Maranges La Fussière 1er Cru Rouge, good although the wood was far from integrated. Tracie B suggested decanting with good results.

Stove-top roasted chestnuts for dessert. An Italian touch on a chilly eve.

Next year I doubt I’ll be spending Chanukah in Santa Monica but I do love the song:

Christmas will be different this year

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Above: Playing guitar the other night at our good friend’s place in Austin. Photo by Tracie B.

My friend F., a winemaker who lives and works with her husband and family in southern Italy and who makes one of her appellation’s most famous wines, often writes me and describes what life is like in her depressed region where work is hard to come by and where the current crisis is affecting families dramatically.

    Our “beloved” president Berlusconi made another one of his typical bull*&% statements: “Italians, spend! And we’ll get out of this crisis!” It’s an insult to people who don’t know how to tell their children that this year Christmas will be different — maybe without presents, because they’ve lost their job… I didn’t want to make you depressed and I don’t think things are much better in the U.S.

Christmas will certainly be different this year: there are a lot of people going through really tough times — like my friend F. and her family. These are bleak times of uncertainty when our country is at war (world war III, in case no one noticed) and the financial crisis is causing a whole heap of stress for a whole mess of hard-working, good folks.

At the same time, these are days filled with hope and joy for me. As I start my new life in Austin with Tracie B, a very special lady who’s brought light into my life, I know that I’ve got a lot to be thankful for — and let me just say it again, a lot to be thankful for. So, my Christmas will be different, too. And I sure am thankful for that…

I will be taking a break from blogging for the next week or so and will see y’all after the New Year.

Let’s hope it’s a good one… without any fear!

*****

When I ran to the store with a penny
and when youth was abundant and plenty
Classify these as good times good times
When I rolled rubber tires in the driveway
Pulled a purse on a string across the highway
Classify these as good times good times
Good times are coming humming hmm good times are coming humming hmm

Go to school fight a war working steady
meet a girl fall in love for I’m ready
Classify these as good times good times

Here I sit with a drink and a mem’ry
But I’m not cold I’m not wet and I’m not hungry
So classify these as good times good times
Good times are coming humming hmm good times
Good times are coming humming hmm good times

— Willie Nelson

Champers: best Champagne bets for New Year’s and other sparklers

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Above: Jean-Luc Retard (aka Dan Crane) and I cracked a bottle of Bollinger in Bryan Cook’s studio earlier this year. Bollinger is the “official” Champagne of our band Nous Non Plus. We love it so much that we wrote a song about it on our new CD “Ménagerie” (in stores Feb. 3, Aeronaut Records). Bollinger Special Cuvée (the house’s entry level wine) is relatively easy to find and should cost about $55, although it can fetch up to $75 depending on the market).

When it comes to sparkling wine, there’s no better resource in the blogosphere than Brooklynguy’s Friday Night Bubbles. (And for Champagne freaks, Peter Liem’s excellent blog is a must read.) Brooklynguy is a lover of natural wine, Loire Valley (the epicenter of the natural wine movement today), and “grower” Champagne (i.e., Champagne producers that grow their own grapes instead of buying it from other estates). He has an uncanny ability to find great values for great sparkling wine. (Like this 96 Fleury he turned me, Jayne, and Jon on to when we hung this year at Bahia.)

Above: Tracie B and I disgorged a bottle of one of our favorite sparkling wines, Puro Rosé by Movia (Slovenia), the other night at our friend’s place in Austin. Anyone who follows Do Bianchi knows that this is one of my I-would-drink-it-everyday-if-I-could-afford-to wines. It’s pretty hard to find (outside of major markets) but should cost about $50.

The only problem is that, because he lives in NYC, Brooklynguy has access to wine sellers that many of us do not. That doesn’t mean that we can’t drink great bubbles at a reasonable price for New Year’s Eve. The price point for good (and not-too-hard-to-find) Champagne is between $50-80 — that’s steep for me but when it comes to Champagne, you’ve got to pay to play…

Above: Selosse is way too expensive for my pocketbook and next-to-impossible to find. But as they say in French, “impossible n’est pas français”: Alfonso treated me, Tracie, and Kim to a bottle of the high coveted wine a few weekends ago in Dallas. (He found it at Austin Wine Merchant. It’s easier to find in smaller markets.)

When it’s bad, Champagne sucks: please DO NOT ever drink Veuve Clicquot — one of the worst marketing scams in the history of wine (sawwy, but it needs to be said).

When it’s good, reasonably priced Champagne (in Do Bianchi’s world, think Bollinger, Billecart-Salmon, Taittinger) can be delicious, nuanced, and sexy.

Above: Tracie B and I love Billecart-Salmon. It’s not too hard to find non-vintage entry-level at around $55. The non-vintage rosé (soooooo good) costs around $90.

Partly because of the way it has been marketed (brilliantly) and partly because of the ineffable complexity it attains when made well, Champagne is indelibly etched in our psyche as the apotheosis of decadence and celebration. It is perhaps the only wine that transcends place and nationality — everyone loves Champagne and employs it in celebration. So powerful is the image evoked by Champagne that even the word itself thrives outside the world of wine: it just wouldn’t make sense to call someone a “Brunello socialist,” would it?

Above: My good friend and VinoWire collaborator Franco and I tasted in the cellars of Ca’ del Bosco in Franciacorta in September. Franciacorta produces superb terroir-driven sparkling wines.

Beyond the world of Champagne, I’ve been drinking a lot of sparkling wine from the Loire Valley (think Saumur and Vouvray) and Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) this year. These wines are not alternatives to Champagne: when they’re well made, they are terroir-driven wines that express the places where they are produced in their aromas and flavors. Because they don’t evoke the prestige of Champagne, they often represent excellent value and in many cases, I find them to be more food-friendly than Champagne (because of its complexity, good Champagne often requires very pure flavors in the foods with which it is served).

What will Tracie B and I be drinking on New Year’s Eve? Stick around and you just might find out!

Ex libris: books that have come across my desk

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Truth be told, I don’t really have a desk (although, happily, that will be changing soon!). For the last year and a half, my office has been the Butler (Columbia U) and New York Public Libraries, the La Jolla and Marina del Rey Libraries, and a mixed bag of airport lounges and Starbucks. Here are some books that have come across my virtual desk this holiday season. (Click on the images for Amazon links.)

Puglia: a Culinary Memoir is the most recent entry in a wonderful series of regional Italian cookbooks published by my friend Polly Franchini in New York (I’m currently translating Venice). I really liked the narrative feel of this cookery book and the excellent translation by Natalie Danford is fluid and natural. The regional Italian cookery fad has been around for some time now (since the late 1990s) and while so many celebrity chefs have tried to hang their hat on the Italian regional mantle, few can deliver the way that Italian authors can: look to Maria Pignatelli’s recipes for truly authentic Apulian fare.

It’s never too late to save the world from Parkerization: my close friend Alice Feiring’s book, The Battle for Love and Wine or How I Saved the World from Parkerization, has appeared at Do Bianchi a number of times since it was released earlier this year. I can’t recommend this polemical book highly enough: this is required reading for anyone and everyone ready to cast off the yoke of Parkerized and reified consumerist hegemony (the rhetoric is Gramscian here).

Check out this post on Alice and her book by Craig Camp at Wine Camp: a Points-Free Zone.

You wouldn’t think there would be anything polemical about the industrious Tyler Colman aka Dr. Vino’s most recent book, A Year of Wine, but there is: Tyler has anointed himself as the caped crusader devoted to exposing the often obscene carbon footprint of marketing-driven wines. Even in this primer for the neophyte wine enthusiast, he devotes ample space to the environmental impact of wine and wine consumption. I really liked the innovative format of this book: Tyler leads the reader through the year’s seasons of wine, with useful tips for how to decipher the choreography of wine service and how to pair and drink in an informed and intelligent manner.

I must confess that I am a little conflicted about including this last book, A16 Food + Wine, in my round-up. A16 is a great San Francisco restaurant and Jayne and Jon and I had a wonderful time when we ate there in October. It’s really two books: the first part is an excellent introduction to the wines, grapes, and winemaking traditions of southern Italy, by SF sommelier Shelley Lindgren, who blew the minds of the wine world when she launched an all-southern-Italian list in 2004 (the two exceptions are two of my favorite sparklers, Puro by Movia and Lambrusco by Lini). Her contribution to Italocentric vinography is perhaps the first comprehensive English-language survey of southern and insular Italy. It will reside proudly in the reference section of my new desk.

The second part of the book is Nate Appleman’s make-it-up-as-you-go-along, I-hung-out-in-Italy-for-a-while guide to air-quoted regional Italian cookery. He lost me at “chicken meatballs” (Italians make meatballs with veal, pork, and beef, and chicken is never ground in Italian cookery). I like Nate’s cooking and immensely enjoyed the restaurant (including his superb Monday-night meatballs) but there’s nothing genuine in his claims of authenticity.

I wish this book were just “A16: Wine” but I do recommend it as great guide to the wonderful wines of southern Italy, which represent some of the greatest values for the quality in the market today.

One thing I’ve learned over this last year and a half: it’s not easy to put your feet up on a virtual desk. But as I wait for my real desk to arrive (in Jan. 09), I’m looking forward to catching up on my own reading over the holiday break.

Buona lettura!

Next week: Do Bianchi’s top NYE champers pics!

Word is out: Nous Non Plus in NYC Feb. 9

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Above: Nous Non Plus in June 2008. There’s no excuse for shameless self-promotion, is there? After all, it’s shameless! That’s me, far left.

New Yorkers and américains, mark you’re calendars: Nous Non Plus will be headlining at the Mercury Lounge on the Lower East Side, Monday, February 9, 10 p.m.

We’ll be hot on the heels of our France 09 Tour, including our Paris appearance at Point Ephémère, Wednesday, February 4. (Believe it or not, our tour is also taking us to do a date in Bordeaux! What in the world is Do Bianchi gonna drink there? Bored-oh?)

Click here for tickets for the Feb. 9 show.

Our new album, Ménagerie (Aeronaut Records), will be on shelves (virtual and real) on Feb. 3.

You can download an mp3 of our cover of The Unicorns’ Tuff Ghost here.