Porcini porn: how Tuscan men eat

Lunch today with the Bindocci men at Trattoria il Pozzo (Sant’Angelo in Colle)… Keep in mind they are approaching “piena vendemmia” (nearly the peak of harvest) here in Tuscany and this was a quick, working lunch… a 45 minute affair… giusto, giusto so that we could “break bread” together…

Raw porcini salad.

Pici al ragù (di manzo, beef ragù). Normally I’d have the wild boar ragù but I didn’t want to get carried away (literally).

The 2004 Brunello Riserva Paganelli (cru) by Il Poggione was INSANE! Such bright acidity, such chewy red fruit, equine tannins, indomitable but delicious nonetheless!

Normally we’d have the bistecca alla fiorentina but today it was a mere beef filet (blood rare, of course) topped with a grilled mushroom cap.

Just in case, we also had a roast mushroom cap.

Wherever I lay my hat these days, I am reminded that Texas is my home (for MELVIN CROAKER).

Video of Soldera’s vineyards

Above: A shot of Sant’Angelo Colle taken from Il Poggione’s farmhouse at 10:30 a.m., September 15, 2010 (using my Blackberry).

It rained heavily in Tuscany on Monday night while I was in the Maremma (on the coast), although according to accounts from Montalcino, the vineyards in Sant’Angelo in Colle emerged unscathed.

Last night, I slept at Il Poggione’s farmhouse and watched the sun rise: at daybreak, when I went outside to take some photos, it was so chilly that I had to wear my Adidas jacket and cowboy hat.

At 10:30 a.m., as I write this, it’s 61° F. and the weather is fantastic, clear skies and sunshine.

Here’s what it looked like on Sunday, in the vineyards of Gianfranco Soldera, in Santa Restituta, not far from Sant’Angelo, also in the southwestern subzone of the Brunello di Montalcino appellation.

One of the best fish dinners I’ve ever had in Italy

Last night I was treated to one of the best fish dinners I’ve ever had by Giampaolo Paglia (you may remember him from a recent post here). The restaurant was the Oasi in Follonica, a seaside venue where you can rent beach chairs and tents by day and lunch and dine on the freshest of fish. I was completely floored by the quality of the materia prima and chef/owner Mirko Martinelli’s deft hand. Follonica may not exactly be on the conventional tourist’s radar: should you be willing to make the detour, I can assure you that you will be rewarded by Mirko’s magic.

Raw sea bream with tomato, fried basil, and salmon roe.

Sargo with mushrooms and black truffles over creamy polenta. THIS DISH WAS INSANELY GOOD!

The combination of the lightly fried shrimp and the moray eel (see the photo at the top) was truly SUBLIME. The texture and flavor of the moray was ineffably delicious.

Gianpaolo’s skin-contact Ansonica Bucce (bucce = skins) was my favorite pairing of the night. (When I have time down the road, I’ll recount our conversation about Gianpaolo decision to abandon his barriques.)

Tracie P will tell you that I rarely eat dessert but how could I resist?

Chef Mirko, left, with Gianpaolo… simply amazing dinner… I can’t wait to bring Tracie P here…

Fellini’s seaside repast (lunch at Zanzibar, San Vincenzo)

an oneiric state by the sea…

where fishermen returning from their catch…

rejoin with glitterati and revellers unfettered…

in a dream…

Zanzibar
Piazza Del Porto, 2
57027 San Vincenzo (Livorno)
0565 702927

[from the hypnerotomachia ieremiae]

Porchetta porn (WARNING: CONTAINS GRAPHIC IMAGES OF PORK)

Most folks agree: the best porchetta to be found in the Orcia River Valley is made by Nannetti e Bernardini in Pienza.

Don’t worry, TWG, I’m still watching my waistline!

That’s me (can’t you tell?) outside Enoteca Bengodi in Castelnuovo Berardenga (highly recommended).

Heading out for more tasting today in Montalcino and then an overnight in Maremma…

Thanks for reading! Stay tuned…

Daybreak in Montalcino (Castelnuovo dell’Abate)

Here’s what daybreak looks like from the apartment where I’ve been staying in Castelnuovo dell’Abate (Montalcino), in the southeastern subzone of the appellation. That’s Mt. Amiata.

Click the image for full effect.

Woman and man cannot live by Sangiovese alone (and more baby fever)

Tracie P likes to tease me using an age-old southern expression: my Jeremy P, she says, never meets a stranger. Anyone who knows me personally knows that I’m a “people person.”

When I met Federico “Fred” Marconi (above, with his truly delightful wife and fantastic cook Lucia) more than two years ago at Vinitaly, I knew that we were kindred spirits and that we were going to become fast friends. He’s an artist, he’s a rocker (a HUGE Ramones fan), and like me, he makes a living working in wine (as the export manager for one of my fav super old-school Brunello growers, Le Presi).

When Fred heard I was coming to Montalcino, he generously offered to let me stay in his parents’s apartment in Castelnuovo dell’Abate for a few days. And he and Lucia had me over for Sunday lunch this afternoon outside of Montichiello (one of the most well-kept Medieval hilltop towns in the Orcia River Valley). That’s the view of the Castello di Velona from Fred’s parents’s place.

Lucia dressed her mother’s homemade pici, the traditional long noodles of Montalcino (made with flour, salt, and water), with eggplant and nepitella, a sort of Central-Southern-Italian fusion dish, a wonderful combination of flavors and textures.

She outdid herself with her Indian-inspired chicken spiedini seasoned with mint. She also made a fantastic roast chicken with wild fennel and mushrooms — the perfect lunch for me considering the overwhelming number of heavy meals in store for me in the days to come.

We paired with this great Greco di Tufo by Benito Ferrara (Avellino), bright acidity, rocks, and (white) fruit. The perfect Sunday lunch before the onslaught of appointments that begins tomorrow (Alfonso and anyone else who works in the wine biz knows what I’m talking about).

Lucia and Fredman’s son Santiago is already catching rock ‘n’ roll fever — and the baby fever is catching too!

In other news…

Check out the grape porn that I posted today at one of my Austin client’s blogs.

Soldera 03 Riserva and dinner at Il Silene

Had the opportunity to chat and to taste some amazing wines with Gianfranco Soldera yesterday (but more on that later) and then was treated to dinner at what many consider the best restaurant in this neck of the Tuscan woods, Il Silene. Utterly delicious all around and a truly remarkable pairing (especially considering the balance in the wine from the otherwise-difficult-to-tame 2003 vintage).

That’s chef Roberto Rossi’s snail and vegetable soup paired with 2003 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.

That’s Chef Rossi’s tagliatelle al ragù (evidently Soldera had eaten there at lunch as well yesterday, making the 1-hour drive 4 times in one day just to dine there!). Fantastic wines, stupendous dinner…

Posting in a hurry as sunlight, landscape, vines, and my camera have a date this morning… then to lunch with friends…

pomodori fiorentini

The figs from the property managed by laura and marco were amazing. The tomatoes are pomodori fiorentini, known for their “wrinkles,” I believe they are also called _grinzosi_, “wrinkled in italian. So good with some mozzarella di bufala from campania and their estate evoo. Thanks again laura and marco for taking in this weary traveler!