“Mt. Etna speaks through Frank Cornelissen.”
—Alice Feiring, author of Naked Wine and The Battle for Wine and Love: How I Saved the World from Parkerization
“Naturalness is the road, not its end.”
—Frank Cornelissen
It’s official: I’ll be hosting a dinner for Etna winemaker Frank Cornelissen at Sotto in Los Angeles on Sunday November 11.
Lou will be there, too!
As we journey through Italy, our travels times depend on Georgia P’s napping and nursing schedule. And so we had to rely on the fates for a late lunch yesterday as we made our way from Montalcino to Melfi in Basilicata, where we slept in the shadow of Mt. Vulture last night.
Tracie P’s one desire was that we cross over into her beloved Campania from Latium before stopping for our repast.
We took the exit for Caianello not knowing that the gods would deliver us to the Ristorante Maracuja (Passionfruit), where manager Gennaro graciously offered to feed us despite the fact that his venue was host to parties celebrating a communion, a baptism, and a teenager’s birthday respectively.
As Tracie P likes to note, it’s difficult to eat badly in Campania. And while Ristorante Maracuja (at least in our experience) is a relatively humble banquet hall (complete with DJ that sings Fred Buscaglione and Dean Martin classics), its food was delicious.
The pièce de résistance was the cortecce with clams (above), thoroughly enjoyed by Georgia P as well.
The parsley in the stewed baby octopus was — hands down — the most flavorful I’d ever had and bordered on piquant. Italian gastronomy is unrivaled in its variety and its richness but no one — anywhere in the world — can compete with the materia prima of southern Italy.
The potatoes and mussels were — there’s no other way to say it — sublime. I would return just for this dish.
Little did we know that we had stumbled onto a corridor that hosts one of the most popular mozzarella mongers in Campania (even our friends in Basilicata knew of it).
This is the best photo of the Caseificio La Pagliara we took and this is the best listing that I can find.
Even at 4 p.m. on a Sunday, the line was literally 20 persons deep.
We didn’t want to wait that long since we had such a long trip and so we went to the Bottega dei Buoni Sapori down the road (I can’t find any listing). When Tracie P entered the shop, the owner said, “o, they must have already closed up the road.” That’s how good La Pagliara must be…
Today we plan to go up to Rio Nero (on Mt. Vulture) before heading to Lecce… Stay tuned! And thanks for reading! :)
My editor at the Houston Press asked me if I’d like to share my thoughts on (and loathing for) truffle oil.
So Tracie P, Georgia P, and I stopped at that huge Autogrill just south of Bologna (you know, the one right before you head up into the Apennines). And I bought this bottle of the petroleum-laced stuff.
*****
And in the meantime, Talia Baiocchi, my favorite wine writer in America right now, posted interviews with sommeliers from around the U.S. who shared their thoughts on corkage, present company included.
*****
My girls and I are headed to Melfi today… then it’s on to Lecce on Monday…
Buona domenica yall!
Osteria Le Logge (Siena)
fiori di zucca
vitello tonnato
fusilli broccoli basilico pomodoro
ravioli
happy baby-led weaning
visit to our favorite wine shop
Above: A sine qua non fiorentina at Trattoria Il Pozzo in Sant’Angelo in Colle. We try to make it here — where everybody knows your name — at least once a year.
I try to make it back to Montalcino every year during harvest. I come in part because there’s no better way to wrap your mind around a vintage than to see the fruit right before it’s going to be picked and to talk to growers as their year’s work comes to fruition (literally). But it’s also because of my deep connection to the holm oak mountain (the mons ilex, as Montalcino was known in antiquity): ever since I first began seriously following fine wine after my first visit in 1989, this place has held profound meaning in my enoic awareness and life.
Above: Chef Franca Binarelli never misses the mark.
Tracie P and I will be meeting with a number of winemakers and growers while we’re here and Sunday morning I’ll be taking my yearly daybreak drive through the vineyards with my friend and “professor” Fabrizio Bindocci, winemaker at Tenuta Il Poggione, as Tracie P and Georgia P slumber.
Above: Front-of-the-house Paola Binarelli took such good care of us and held Georgia P as we ate our first course last night.
This year’s visit is extra special, of course, because it’s Georgia P’s first.
She has been having a BLAST here, between vineyard strolls and new and delicious foods. In America, people frown on bringing children to restaurants. In Italy, they rejoice. It’s so cool. :)
As soon as I get a chance, I’ll post my notes from our visits with growers. Stay tuned and thanks for reading…
E buon weekend yall!
Tagliatelle ai funghi porcini, de rigueur at Lino’s.
Between my meetings and tastings, we managed to stop at the famous Locanda da Lino for lunch. The locanda may have seen better days but it’s still one of the most interesting and beautiful rooms in the land of Prosecco. It would be worth the admission to see all the images of Toti dal Monte that adorn the walls. She was one of the locanda’s most famous guests (along with Marcello Mastroianni and other glitterati of their day).
Corte Sant’Alda Garganega. SO good.
Vegetable frolla.
Fagioli (beans).
Bigoli with ragù from Sorana (breed) beef.
Meatballs and tocio (gravy) with polenta.
Rabbit.
Happy bunny. She loved the beans and the meatballs. :)
At the end of our workday yesterday, Luca and I stopped for do bianchi, two glasses of white wine before dinnertime.
We went to the Osteria alla Veneta, a classic Veneto tavern, owned and run by a classic Veneto oste, tavern-keeper Claudio Oriandi (in the photo above).
The expression “do bianchi” (DOH BEE’AH-kee) is a good one to know when you visit the Veneto.
Given the choice, I opted for the 2007 Pacher Hof Sylvaner, a muscular expression of this grape variety. For the first taste of wine of the day, I probably would have opted for something a little lighter in body but it was delicious nonetheless.
I vin che ghe xe sempre… “The wines we always carry,” in other words, “wines by the glass.” Note the prices: Euro 1.30 or 1.50. And note the selection of grape varieties. Also note how Tocai is used (no on calls it Friulano here!).
Proverbs, words, expressions [of the day]: shortcomings are like smells; those who have shortcomings have a harder time smelling them than those who find themselves in the company of those who have shortcomings.
Claudio was super nice, the apotheosis of the Veneto oste. Man, I love me some Veneto! It’s where I feel at home in Italy… :)
Osteria alla Veneta
by Claudio Oriandi
31031 Caerano di San Marco (TV)
Via Altivole 45 cell. (011 39) 346 4923941
There’s no listing on Google Places for the osteria by here’s the Google map for the actual address. It’s practically across the street from Luca’s winery, Bele Casel. Highly recommended. Luca says it’s where all the truck drivers eat. “You eat well and the prices are great.”
I wish everyone could feel what we’re feeling right now here in Prosecco country. The Glera is ready to be picked and the salame has never been better. Georgia P is having (literally) the time of her life.
I’ve had a super busy day and the internet connection has been spotty. But just had to share this photo snapped today by our good best friend Giovanni in the Zanotto vineyards after lunch.
Giovanni, we love you, dude.
Do Bianchi 