Soldera’s “water into wine” & rumors of his expulsion (& Cotarella’s zero sulfur wine)

giotto marriage at cana

Above: Giotto’s Marriage at Cana.

Italian news junkies were gripped over the weekend with political intrigue, as 87-year-old Giorgio Napolitano was elected to an unprecedented second term as President of the Italian Republic.

Most pundits predict Berlusconi as the winner of the new power balance.

(“[P]olitical turmoil is preventing leaders from taking steps to right the economy, which is struggling to emerge from the longest recession since World War II,” reports the New York Times. “Unemployment is above 11 percent, and the national debt has risen to 130 percent of gross domestic product, the second-highest ratio of debt to G.D.P. in the euro zone after Greece.”)

These developments didn’t entirely drown out the chatter from Montalcino, where — Italy’s leading wine blogger Franco Ziliani reports — there are rumors that the Brunello consortium voted in an April 4 assembly to “expel” producer Gianfranco Soldera from the body. (Here’s the thread on the recent contentious public exchange between the consortium and Soldera, who purportedly sent his letter of resignation to the group in late March.)

According to Ziliani, consortium president Fabrizio Bindocci declined to comment on the rumors but did not deny them when reached over the weekend by telephone.

On March 30, responding to Soldera’s accusations that the consortium had encouraged him to sell fraudulent wine when the body offered to give him wine (following an episode of vandalism in December 2012 that purportedly destroyed six vintages of Soldera’s wine), Bindocci told the Italian national daily Corriere della Sera: “We wanted to give him wine to help him, as is the custom among colleagues in the country. He refused the wine. Now other bottles of his suddenly appear. It would seem that he has performed the Miracle of the Marriage at Cana” (where Jesus turned water into wine).

Bindocci was referring to a press release issued by Soldera at the end of March. In it Soldera reported that he had been able to recover a considerable amount of wine that had previously been reported as destroyed in the vandal’s attack.

And so the world of Italian wine turns…

In other news…

riccardo cotarella

Above: Enologist Riccardo Cotarella, the “wine wizard,” known for his modernist approach to winemaking in Italy and widely considered a leading figure of the Italian wine establishment. Image via Empson USA.

Also via Ziliani’s blog, I have learned today that Italian wine establishment enologist Riccardo Cotarella plans to present “zero sulfur [added]” wines from 26 wineries at tasting to be held in Rome on May 16.

Details and registration info for the tasting have been posted by Bibenda, a media platform widely considered by industry observers to be the mouthpiece of “big wine” in Italy.

The wines are the result of eight years of research by Cotarella and his team of enologists, referred to as the [sic] “Wine Research Team.”

Its method is an “absolutely scientific process through which [the team was able] to identify procedures to be implemented in the vineyards and in winemaking aimed at obtaining the highest quality of wine.”

The labels of each of the wines reports: “The vine and wine accompany man on his journey throughout Civilization. Passion and scientific research help to surpass limits at times unthinkable.”

Here are the wineries listed in the post, all of them Cotarella’s clients:

Allegrini – Castello di Cigognola – Carvinea – Còlpetrone – Coppo – Di Majo Norante – Falesco – Fattoria del Cerro – Fattorie Greco – La Guardiense – La Madeleine – La Murola – Leone De Castris – Poggio Le Volpi – San Patrignano – San Salvatore – Tenuta dell’Arbiola – Tenuta di Frassineto – Tenuta San Polo – Terre Cortesi Moncaro – Terre de la Custodia – Trequanda – Villa Matilde – Villa Medoro – Domaine du Comte de Thun.

As Ziliani notes in his post, “never say never.” To which, I’ll add, stranger things have happened.

Chicken Shit Bingo with Dale Watson, a Parzen family affair

verena wiesendanger

Verena (above, holding Georgia P on her lap) has been in town since Tuesday (we’ve been hanging, cooking, and writing and recording songs together at Baby P studios).

With the weather so beautiful right now in the River City (that’s Austin for all yall who ain’t never been to Texas), we just couldn’t resist a family outing yesterday to Chicken Shit Bingo with Dale Watson at (our favorite honkytonk) Ginny’s Little Longhorn Saloon.

chicken shit bingo

Dale’s been playing in Austin and touring the world for more than twenty years, but his new album is bringing him into the fold of the mainstream. Check out this NPR interview he did for his new record release.

I’ve loved his music and his shows since Tracie P first turned me on to him the first time I came to Austin (nearly five years ago now!).

chili dog

We hung out in the shade in the parking lot and Georgia P had a blast checking out the chickens in Ginny’s chicken coop (above) and all the little doggies that folks bring (it’s a bring-your-own-lawn-chair and get a tub of beer affair in the parking lot outside).

Here’s a little taste of what you missed if you weren’t able to make it yesterday…

[just a little] girl with a pearl earring

girl with a pearl earring

It’s been a week filled with terrible news.

Boston, the explosion in Texas, and children going hungry in Greece.

Our hearts and prayers go out to all of our sisters and brothers in pain and in grief.

May G-d bless them.

Someday, Georgia P will learn about how hard life can be, how cruel the world.

But this spring morning in central Texas, she’s just a little girl with a pearl earring.

Buona domenica, yall…

Our palates, ourselves: I’m speaking at a California wine dinner next Tues.

palmaz vineyards

It’s become something of a running joke at Tony’s in Houston, where I curate the restaurant’s online presence and speak occasionally at wine dinners: let’s find a California wine that Jeremy will drink…

Usually, Tony (who’s become a good friend) invites me to speak when he wants to open flights of Bartolo Mascarello and Quintarelli for his guests. I’ve even presided over the occasional vertical of Gaja’s Brunello di Montalcino.

But next Tuesday, I’ll be talking about wines like Linn, Pisoni, and Palmaz (above).

My palate, myself: I’m trying to expand my sensorial lexicon, with a little help from my friends.

Here are details and reservation info.

Over the weekend, I’ll be brushing up on my California knowledge by perusing my favorite Napa Vally-centric blog, Vinsanity.

Its author, Vinogirl, took this amazing photo on Wednesday. How’s that for terroir?

red lizard napa

Nascetta CORRECT pronunciation by Valter Fissore

Click here for the complete series of Italian Grape Name and Appellation Pronunciation Project videos.

When it came to the correct pronunciation of the ampelonym (and enonym) Nascetta (nahs-CHET-tah), it seemed only right to turn to the man who has done more than anyone else to revive and respark this once popular grape from Piedmont, Valter Fissore of the Elvio Cogno winery in Novello (Langa).

Click here for a post devoted to Nascetta and Valter and the story behind his work to bring this noble (imho) grape back into the fold of Langa winemaking. In it, he explains the origins of the name (and I reference some historic documents to give context).

Nascetta became a Langhe DOC in 2010, Valter told me. And beginning in 2011, it became possible to designate the wine with the subzone [Nascetta di] Novello (where the grape variety has historic origins). Valter only began using the subzone designation with the 2012 vintage (he ascribed the delay to “technical reasons”).

I have a lot to tell about our visit and tasting at Vinitaly 2013. But for the moment, I’d like to set the record straight on how to pronounce this wonderful, age-worthy white (I have a vertical in my cellar of Valter’s Nascetta going back to 2007).

Note that an Italian speaker not familiar with the grape variety will pronounce it nah-SHEHT-tah. But the correct Langarola pronunciation, as per the above video, is nahs-CHEH-tah. (Because the grape is only cultivated in Langa, I believe that the dialectal name is the correct form to use.)

More to come…

best nascetta cogno

Massacre in Bologna, living with terror since 1980

massacre strage bologna 1980

Image via Fotografando Emily.

My backlog of tasting notes, winemaker profiles, and food photography brims over from our recent trip to Italy.

But all I can think about this morning is Monday’s tragedy in Boston.

Maybe it’s because of the fact that, for the first time, I felt compelled to shield Georgia P from the news. She’s walking and talking up a storm these days. She certainly can’t understand what the newscasters say (and the media outlets have been conscientious about not showing graphic images from the tragedy; something, as parents of a toddler, we appreciate very much). But we felt compelled, nonetheless, to make sure that she wasn’t exposed to the reports.

I can’t help but be reminded of the 1980 Massacre in Bologna, when a terrorist attack killed “killed 85 people and wounded more than 200.” A bomb went off in the crowded Bologna train station, one of the busiest traffic hubs in Italy, and a new era of terror — one that came in the Years of Lead — had dawned.

In 1980, the year I was bar mitzvah, I was hardly aware of Italy or the Bologna Massacre. But when I traveled to Italy in 1987, the tragedy was still very fresh in the minds of the Italian students with whom I lived. The first time I took a train from Padua to Rome, my cohorts urged me to visit the station memorial when I changed trains: a part of the wall destroyed by the bomb is filled with glass instead of brick to remind travelers of how the explosion blast through the station.

The thing that set the event apart was that no one was certain who was behind the attack.

Note the subtitle in the headline above: due iptoesi: attentato o sciagura? (two hypotheses: attack or accident?).

Many in Italy remember the Bologna tragedy as the beginning of the so-called strategy of tension, whereby the anonymity of the architects of terror played into the hands of the terrorists. In other words, it didn’t matter who committed the act of terror. What mattered was that people were terrorized.

I wish speed upon the authorities as they try to uncover the authors of the despicable and cowardly attack of Monday. And may G-d bless the victims and their families. Our prayers and thoughts are with them.

In other news…

shawn amos

Above, from left: Friends Charlie George, Shawn Amos, and Shawn’s wife Marta in Luca’s vineyard a week ago Saturday.

One bright spot yesterday was my friend Shawn Amos’ Huffington Post article about our trip to Italy. I loved his notion of wine as content.

Wine is content. Glass is the vessel. And the message is in the bottle…

A song for Prosecco (by a closeted Eagles fan)

Over the weekend, as I was editing the homey video above for the Bele Casel blog, I racked my brain (wine connoisseurs know the origins of this expression!) thinking about what kind of song I should write to accompany my little homemade film.

In the end, I just kept coming back to country, you know, that peaceful easy feeling that Proseccoland gives ya’…

Yeah, yeah, I know… for years, I denied being an Eagles fan. Only my therapist knew…

But a few years after I met Tracie P, a lot of heart-to-heart talks, and a mountain of 8-track tapes later, I realized it was okay to come out of the closet and tell the world: “World, I am an American and I’m an Eagles fan!”

Today, I feel confident enough with my country cred that I can admit it.

So there you have it…

I hope you enjoy the video and the music as much as I enjoyed tracking it yesterday…

jeremy parzen musician

Angelo Gaja for president?

angelo gaja new york

Above: I took this photo of Angelo Gaja when I met with him in June 2012. He’s in his 70s and looks great. Angelo Gaja for president? Why not?

“The most important battles to fight,” once said traditionalist Barolo producer Teobaldo Cappellano, “are those which you know you cannot win.”

Surely there was a quixotic spirit behind this utterance (he was referring to the traditionalist opposition to Brunello’s inevitable slide into modernism).

But he was also embracing a notion — very Italian at its core — that taking a stand, even when a last and inconsequential stand, has an indisputable intrinsic value that may transcend the stakes in play (does anyone remember the Alamo?).

In the wake of two weeks that our family just spent in Italy (eating and drinking, playing music, and attending the wine fairs), one thing has become abundantly clear to me: Italians have their backs to the wall. The financial crisis, the Euro crisis, and the Italian frugal spirit have the Italian everyman everyperson in a chokehold.

Everywhere I went, winemakers and restaurateurs repeatedly began their discourse with the expression, con i tempi che corrono (in times like these). People simply aren’t spending the money that they used to. I watched one of the richest men in the Veneto sit down at one of the best restaurants in the province of Treviso and order an Euro 8 bottle of wine.

Extreme times call for extreme measures. It didn’t come as too much of a surprise when I received a press release last week from Vinarius, the association of Italian enoteca owners, in which the authors put forth Angelo Gaja as their candidate for President of the Republic.

birreria pedavena brewery

Above: While in Italy, we visited the beer garden where my band used to play in the 1990s before the Tangentopoli bribe scandal. The mural depicts Italian history through the fascist era, when the gesso was painted. Today, the main dining room is used for “lapdance” evenings (note the pole).

Italy has had pornstar politicians (most famously Staller) and today its “kingmaker” anti-establishment and anti-status-quo Five Star Movement party is headed by a comedian.

So why not a winemaker? After all, the role of President of the Republic (largely ceremonial and not to be confused with the executive Prime Minister or “President of the Council”) has been previously fulfilled by a winemaker (and iconic economist), Luigi Einaudi, Italy’s second president.

According to the president of Vinarius, Andrea Terraneo, who issued the press release last Thursday:

    Gaja represents all Italians inasmuch as he is a citizen, a worker, and a symbol of excellence. He is a leader in the world of agriculture and in the view of Vinarius, his candidacy would be a true resource in an extremely complex economic moment…

    [He] is by far one of the world’s best known Italian wine world personalities. He possesses extraordinary moral and empathetic characteristics and he has the charisma needed to perform such an important role.

While Italian politicians hardly seem to have taken notice, Italian wine industry observers have set about commenting the implications of a Gaja candidacy (just Google “Gaja” and “presidente” and you’ll find all the links, including posts that have appeared in some of the country’s leading wine blogs and mastheads).

However ceremonial the office, the President of the Republic is the only one who can dissolve parliament and call for new elections. (The current president, Napolitano, who is at the end of his seven-year term, cannot call for new elections because the Italian constitution forbids him from doing so in the last six months of his tenure.)

The austerity and financial crises are only exacerbated by the fact that Italy hasn’t had a government since February elections failed to produce a coalition (according to reports today, Berlusconi would be the next PM “by a hair” if the vote were held today).

And beyond the technical issues that the government-less nation faces, there is also the issue of morale in a Europe that increasingly looks to Italy as one of the sources of its financial ills (the Euro crisis was what forced Berlusconi out of power last year).

Gaja for president? It could only do the country good. The only problem, as Franco Ziliani noted the other day on his blog (one of the most popular and most controversial wine blogs in Italy), is why would anyone who is already King [of Barbaresco] accept a demotion to president?

how American girls eat spaghetti al pomodoro

Tracie P, Georgia P, and I had a blast over the last two weeks in Italy.

But we sure are glad to be at home in Texas with all its comforts (and high speed internet).

Thanks for following along and buon weekend, yall! Lots more fun posts on what we ate and drank (and my notes from the wine fairs) to come…

american girl in italy

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