Berlusconi and Brunello

To read my translation and commentary of Emilio Giannelli’s political cartoon above, click on the image.

Italy’s controversial prime minister, Silvio Berlusconi, probably appears in at least one political cartoon every day, but Saturday’s vignette in the Corriere della Sera was different: Brunello di Montalcino, it seems, has become a political metaphor (click the image above to read my translation and commentary at VinoWire.com).

Berlusconi and the Bush administration made the English-language newswire (and headlines in Italy) a few weeks ago. On the occasion of the G8 Summit in Japan, someone at the U.S. State Dept. plagiarized an unflattering profile of Berlusconi word-for-word and printed it in the U.S. government’s “background” briefing materials for press.

According to the bio and our government, Berlusconi is “one of the most controversial leaders in the history of a country known for governmental corruption and vice… regarded by many as a political dilettante who gained his high office only through use of his considerable influence on the national media until he was forced out of office in 2006.”

The Bush administration promptly apologized for the gaffe. Bush and Berlusconi consider themselves “good friends” and Berlusconi was a vocal supporter of Bush’s war in Iraq.

In case you’ve never seen Mascarello’s famous “No Berlusconi, No Barrique” label, check out Wolfgang’s post over at Spume.

L’Affaire Brunello: J’accuse…!

The editors of Do Bianchi have received countless letters in the wake of the recent Brunello controversy. Space constrictions do not allow us to publish all of them but we deemed the following missive, sent from Paris, worthy of our readers’ attention.

Dear Editor,

I am but a humble clerk in a wine shop in Paris (on the Place du Panthéon) and a man of limited means. But for decades now I have been an Italian-wine enthusiast and amateur collector. I have followed the l’Affaire Brunello in Italian and American newspapers and magazines. And I’ve also read about it in the blogosphere, where the debate and commentary are no less lively and inspired.

I tasted Brunello for the first time in 1989, when I traveled to Montalcino on a family holiday. Over the years, I have returned on numerous occasions, to visit my old friends in Bagno Vignoni, to dine at the Trattoria Il Pozzo in Sant’Angelo in Colle, to soothe my soul with the intonations of Gregorian chants at Sant’Antimo, and to wander through the rolling hills of the Val d’Orcia and breathe in the dolce aere tosco, the sweet Tuscan air, to borrow a phrase from Francis Petrarch.

Since word of an investigation of Brunello producers first hit the blogosphere in late March, myriad accusations and allegations have been thrown about, videlicet, that producers had used other grapes besides Sangiovese (the only permitted by law) in their Brunello. On Wednesday of last week the Italian agricultural minister announced that the controversy had ended (but has it?).

I have but one passion: to enlighten those who have been kept in the dark. And so I would like to share with you the following reflections regarding the so-called “Brunello scandal.”

When I first visited the wine country there in the shadow of benevolent Mt. Amiata, my friends poured me Brunello di Montalcino side-by-side with the wines of Bolgheri (about a 2-hour drive to the west, on the coast). The former, made from Sangiovese grapes, was bright in color and clear, austere and tannic but balanced by acidity, and natural fruit flavor. The latter were dark and opaque, made from Cabernet and Merlot, with remarkable fruit and tobacco flavors, the tannins mellowed by aging in new French and Slavonian oak barrels. Over the last two decades, some of the wines made in Montalcino — by certain producers — began, more and more, to resemble those made on the coast.

This phenomenon was no secret. Many local residents told me that they had noticed a change in the wines and wine writers in the U.S. took note, rewarding the wines that had seemingly been transformed with higher and higher scores. At least one such wine even received a “perfect” score of 100 points out of 100 from one of America’s leading wine magazines.

This is the truth, the plain truth. But this letter is long, Sir, and it is time to conclude it.

J’accuse…! the Siena prosecutor for launching a criminal investigation in the first place: the issue of adulterated Brunello should have been handled by the Italian agricultural ministry (and not as a criminal allegation).

J’accuse…! the ex-president of the Consortium of Brunello producers for making matters worse by not responding to inquiries by the press and subsequently by the U.S. government for information about rumored investigations.

J’accuse…! the investigated winemakers for not coming forward and revealing their identity while others’ reputations were at stake and were subsequently damaged by virtue of association.

J’accuse…! the editors of L’Espresso who coined the term “Velenitaly” (PoisonItaly) in reference to supposed health risks in other food and wine products and wrongly associated it with the Brunello scandal — the very week of the Italian wine trade fair! This was a case of sloppy, “yellow” journalism and served only to sell magazines.

J’accuse…! the Italian ministry of Agriculture who handled the affaire with marked partisan (Separatist) attitude. His hubris is only matched by his unnecessary and inexplicable delay in dealing with the issue.

Perhaps we’ll remember l’Affaire Brunello not as the Brunello scandal but rather as the “‘Brunello scandal’ scandal.”

With deepest respect, Sir.

Edoardo Bianchi
Paris
7 July 2008

Just in from Montalcino…

My friend Alessandro Bindocci, whose family makes traditional-style Brunello (at Il Poggione in Sant’Angelo in Colle, one of my favorite producers of Brunello), sent me a copy of the Italian agriculture minister’s decree establishing an official government body (the ICQ) to provide Brunello producers with “declarations” that their wines are 100% Sangiovese. I’ve translated the salient passages of the decree and posted at VinoWire.

Resolution of the Brunello controversy? Let’s hope so…

The Italian minister of agriculture will hold a press conference tomorrow to announce the resolution of the Brunello controversy. Click here to read my translation of his press release.

Stay tuned… and let’s hope that this mess will finally be resolved… Speriamo bene…

Dante inspires a wine and gets a welcome (?) home after 700 years

Dante made the Italian news wire the other day — yes, Dante Alighieri (1265 – 1321; how’s that for a boldface name?), author of La Commedia, an autobiographical and politically charged allegorical poem written in terza rima, or rhymed tercets, divided into three canticles (Inferno, Purgatorio, and Paradiso), in which he recounts his exile from Florence (1302) and his journey through the center of the earth (with Virgil as his guide) to heaven where he is received by his beloved Beatrice, who in turn guides him to the Virgin Mary and his salvation. Earlier this month, only 700 years after the fact, Florence rescinded Dante’s exile, thus allowing for the poet’s remains to be returned to the city on the Arno river. The back story: the Florentines want to wrest the body back from the city of Ravenna, where Dante died and his tomb is a major tourist attraction, most likely because they’d like to see those tourist dollars (and euros) spent at home. (For a concise overview of Dante’s life and work and details of his exile, please do not use Wikipedia; use the excellent Princeton Dante Project and for closer reading of La Commedia, use the Dartmouth Dante Project.)

In the light of this news, I was all the more intrigued by a wine I came across the other day called “Bello Ovile.” The expression il bello ovile (the fair sheepfold) comes from Canto 25 of the Paradiso, and is a metaphorical reference to Dante’s youth in Florence:

    Should it ever come to pass that this sacred poem,
    to which both Heaven and earth have set their hand
    so that it has made me lean for many years,

    should overcome the cruelty that locks me out
    of the fair sheepfold where I slept as a lamb,
    foe of the wolves at war with it,

    with another voice then, with another fleece,
    shall I return a poet and, at the font
    where I was baptized, take the laurel crown.

    (Par. 25, 1-9)

Next to his lifelong quest to free the Italian city states from the yoke of papal power and to restore imperial (temporal) power, Dante desired nothing more than a glorious return to Florence and his laureation there, i.e., his crowning with a laurel and recognition as poet laureate (in fact, he never returned). “The font [spring] where I was baptized” refers to the famous Baptistery of San Giovanni (left) that you surely remember from your Renaissance Art History 101 for its gilded doors (and the competition to cast them, won by Ghiberti and lost by Brunelleschi). After he was exiled from Florence, Dante found his first “welcome” and “refuge” in Verona under the protection of the Veronese seigneur Cangrande della Scala. In the Paradiso (17, 70-72), Cacciaguida (his great-great-grandfather) tells Dante:

    You shall find welcome and a first refuge
    in the courtesy of the noble Lombard,
    the one who bears the sacred bird above the ladder.

In 14th century Italian, Lombard denoted an inhabitant of Northern Italy and the “sacred bird above the ladder” is a reference to Cangrande della Scala’s coat of arms, a ladder (scala) with a black eagle (an imperial symbol) atop. Dante’s son Pietro Alighieri settled and remained in Verona: today, Count Pieralvise Serego Alighieri continues to make wine there, in one of the oldest historically designated vineyards of Valpolicella, Armaron (many believe that the toponym Armaron is the etymon of Amarone; I’m a fan of Alighieri’s Amarone, which he ages in cherry wood).

When Serego decided to buy an estate and begin making wine in Tuscany, he viewed the move — rightly — as a return to his ancestor’s “sheepfold” even though the wine isn’t made anywhere near Florence: it’s made in Montecucco, a wonderful, undiscovered and still undeveloped part of Tuscany, to the west of Montalcino toward the sea, where you’ll find all sorts of artisanal pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) producers, grape growers, and fantastic norcini or pork butchers (when I was there year before last, I had some amazing head cheese near the village of Paganico).

It will be interesting to see how the fight over Dante’s remains plays out and in the meantime, I’m glad to see that Count Serego decided to use indigenous grapes in his homage to his ancestor Dante: Bello Ovile [BEHL-loh oh-VEE-leh] is made primarily from Sangiovese, with smaller amounts of Canaiolo and Cilliegiolo (it retails for under $20). The wine is done in a modern style, fruit forward, but judiciously enough so that it still expresses the grape variety.

Bello Ovile would have tasted foreign to Dante: in his day, Sangiovese was not considered a grape variety for fine wine and wines were much lighter in color and body. Of Italy’s three “crowns” of the Middle Ages — Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio — Petrarch wrote more and most famously about wine. There’s a famous passage in Dante about Vernaccia and the eels of Lake Bolsena, but I’ll save that morsel for another post.

Some clarification on the title of La Commedia…

  • Dante called the poem La Commedia but he never called it “divine”: Boccaccio, one of Dante’s greatest commentators and the author of an early biography of Dante, called it “the Divine Comedy.”
  • In the context of Dante’s poem, the title Comedy does not denote humor but rather the fact that poem has a happy ending (as opposed to tragic) and — most importantly — is written in Italian rather than Latin. In a letter to Cangrande della Scala, presenting the poem, Dante wrote: “in the conclusion, it is prosperous, pleasant, and desirable,” and in its style “lax and unpretending [undemanding],” being “written in the vulgar [vernacular or Italian] tongue, in which women and children speak.”
  • Father of the Italian language…

    Dante is often called the “father of the Italian language” because the immediately and immensely popular Comedy became one of the primary models for literary Italian and ultimately — together with the Italian writings of Petrarch and Boccaccio — became the basis for the national language of Italy (which first emerged only in the late nineteenth century).

    Dante in translation…

    The most recent translations have been published by top Dante scholars Robert Durling (Oxford University Press, 1996 [2003]) and Mark Musa (Indiana University Press, 1996 [2004]. For readability, I’ve always been a big fan of the translation by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (Houghton, Mifflin and Co., 1892-1893). From a purely exegetic point of view, I always prefer Charles Singleton (Princeton University Press, 1970-75). Allen Mandelbaum’s excellent translation (Bantam Books, 1980) is one of the more inspired renderings in my opinion and Robert Pinsky’s “verse translation” of the Inferno (Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1994) was an interesting experiment in “translation as performance.”

    Breaking (good) news: Antinori’s 03 Brunello released by Italian authorities

    It’s not entirely clear what went on “behind the scenes” but Marchesi Antinori has become the first Brunello producer — of the 5 officially known to be suspected of adulteration — to announce that its 2003 Brunello will be available for sale as early as next week. Read the whole story at VinoWire.

    Although the question of when Brunello producers will be given “guarantee” letters by the Italian government remains unclear (nor is it clear which arm of the government will issue said letter, now required by the U.S. government for Brunello imports), the news of Antinori’s green light seems to be a very positive step in the right direction.

    I, for one, am very relieved to see that the Brunello controversy is beginning to subside and I look forward to drinking 03 Brunello by all of my favorite producers.

    In other news…

    Above: Grilled Mahi Mahi tacos and 1989 Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia at my favorite taco shack, Bahia Don Bravo, in Bird Rock (La Jolla), CA. Click on image for centerfold.

    I finally convinced my favorite taco shack to let me bring my own wine: last night Irwin and I opened 1989 Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia (white) with our grilled Mahi Mahi tacos. Irwin was really blown away by the Lopez de Heredia, noting that “there’s nothing about this wine that I don’t like.” It was showing very well, with nice acidity, nuanced fruit, and judicious alcohol — perfectly balanced.

    Bahia was packed last night and we were lucky to find a table for two. Irwin really dug the Viña Tondonia, saying that it was “the best white wine I’ve ever had.” I have to say that it is one of my all-time best white wines, too.

    We also drank a 2003 Vignalta Gemola, a Bordeaux-style blend made in the Euganean Hills outside Padua, where Petrarch spent the last years of his life compiling and editing his life’s work. It didn’t show as well as other bottles I’ve opened.

    Bahia Don Bravo
    5504 La Jolla Blvd
    La Jolla, CA 92037
    (858) 454-8940

    Asimov wins Veronelli prize

    New York Times wine columnist and author of The Pour, Eric Asimov, has won the prestigious Premio Veronelli (Veronelli prize) for “best food and wine writing in a foreign language.” Also nominated for the category were Michelle Shah and Gilles Pudlowski. Eric was the only American to receive an award at the third annual Premio Veronelli ceremony held in Milan last week.

    Last week, Veronelli Editore announced the winners of the third annual Premio Veronelli or Veronelli prize, an award inspired by the life and career of Luigi Veronelli (1926 – 2004) — the architect of Italy’s current food and wine renaissance, and one of Italy’s most controversial and influential food and wine editors and writers.

    Although not nearly as commercial in scope, the Premio Veronelli is the counterpart of the U.S. James Beard Foundation Awards. Its 16 categories include prizes for best restaurateur, winemaker, olive oil producer, distiller, and food and wine writing among others.

    The Veronelli prize committee praised Eric for “courageous independence” in his writing and his “profound knowledge of Italian wine”:

      Writing “from the prestigious platform of The New York Times, food and wine critic Eric Asimov has maintained courageous independence in his opinions, which often lie outside the mainstream. Although not a wine writer in the strictest sense, he has shown profound knowledge of Italian wine. And he has voiced his greatest appreciation when, unhindered, it expresses the terroir where it was born.”

    Widely read in Europe, Eric’s column in the “paper of record” became a hot topic earlier this year in Italy when he was mistranslated by an Italian newswire service: according to the erroneous report, he had called Barolo the world’s “sexiest wine.” An article in Italy’s national daily La Stampa compounded the misunderstanding when it asked noted winemakers to comment on a declaration never uttered by Eric. Click here to read my post on the Sexy Barolo affair.

    Congratulations, Eric! It’s great to hear that the voice of American wine writing (and wine blogging) makes a difference on the other side of that great misunderstanding that we know as the Atlantic ocean.

    Breaking news: TTB backs off from Brunello lab analysis demand

    I just received news that the TTB has backed off from its demand for laboratory analyses from Montalcino. In April, the TTB or Alcohol Tobacco Tax and Trade bureau had requested a list of Brunello producers implicated in the current Brunello controversy. In May, after the Consortium of Brunello producers and the Italian government had failed to respond, the Americans informed them that unless they received the list by June 23 (the original date was set for June 9), they would block imports of Brunello unaccompanied by laboratory analysis certifying that the wine was made from 100% Sangiovese. Evidently, following meetings last week between the Italian Minister of Agriculture, Luca Zaia, and his American counterpart, U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Ed Schafer, the Americans have agreed to lift the requirement.

    This is great news. It came to me via a letter circulated by the National Association of Beverage Importers.

    Click here to read it.

    Frankly, I feel that the whole issue had been blown out of proportion by a series of misunderstandings and mishaps.

    I’m writing from the road today (stayed in Vegas last night) but will post more tomorrow on what this will mean for Brunello and for us Brunello lovers (an association of which I am a card-carrying member!).

    Nous Non Plus in LA, SF, Germany, and revelations from Montalcino

    Above: Nous Non Plus performed this spring in Slovenia. That’s me stage left (on the right). Click here to read an interview with the band published in this week’s H Magazine.

    Nous Non Plus will be performing this week in Los Angeles (Friday night) and San Francisco (Saturday noon, free show). Click on cities for info. We also learned that we will be performing at a Green Party event in Frankfurt an der Oder (about an hour outside Berlin) on Saturday, August 30.

    In other news…

    Il Sole 24 Ore reported yesterday that it was the discovery of ghost vineyards that led to the current controversy in Brunello. According to the story, winemakers were releasing more wine than their vineyards could produce. The current investigation began not because the Italian treasury department suspected winemakers of adulteration but rather because wineries allegedly over-reported surface area “under vine” or “planted to grape,” as they say in the wine world. It’s possible that the wineries were reporting false information because they were applying for bank loans using their vineyards as collateral.

    Click here to read about it in VinoWire.

    Il Sole 24 Ore (literally, “The Sun 24 Hours [a Day]” or “Sun Around the Clock”) is Italy’s most highly regarded business newspaper. It’s Italy’s counterpart to The Wall Street Journal.

    Which red wine? And cool Italian-related stuff to do in NYC.

    An article on the front page of Wednesday’s New York Times reported that “New Hints Seen That Red Wine May Slow Aging.” According to the article, pharmaceutical companies are investing unspeakable amounts of money to try to recreate the health-enhancing properties of red wine in the hopes of discovering a would-be fountain of youth.

    Europeans have long believed that red wine is part of a healthy diet and life and that red wine can help people to live longer (I remember a 90+ year-old lady I knew in Pieve di Cadore in the Dolomites who poured a glass of red wine in her soup every day; she claimed that it was the secret to her longevity and the quality of her life and lucidity at such an advanced age).

    But which red wine are we talking about? Certainly not high-alcohol, concentrated wines, out-of-balance, with fruit created by technology, so viscous you could use them to oil up your Harley Davidson.

    No, those aren’t the red wines that the old folk drink. It’s unfortunate when headlines like that appear because they don’t contextualize the health-enhancing properties of wine (red or white): wine is healthy when it is drunk in moderation as part of a healthy diet and a healthy lifestyle.

    Time for me to stop pontificating now…

    I did, however, like Eric’s article on Burgundy.

    In other news…

    Blow-by-blow, day-by-day, minute-by-minute, mano-a-mano, tête-à-tête, vis-à-vis coverage of my Aspen trip begins on Monday. So stay tuned…

    In other other news…

    Here are some cool Italian-related things going on in Manhattan in June.

    My friend Keith de Lellis, collector extraordinaire of vintage Italian photography, is exhibiting a show entitled “La Strada,” featuring 1950s original black and white prints of street life in Italy. Years ago, I helped Keith research his buying trips to Italy and I was fascinated by the people we met, the stories they told, and the out-of-the-way places Keith travels to find this amazing photography (the prints aren’t cheap, btw). Between the second world war and Italy’s economic miracle in the 1960s, photography became an inexpensive and popular hobby there and even amateur photographers seemed capable of creating neorealist works of art. All of Keith’s prints date back to the 1950s and when you seem them in person, the quality of the paper and the printing techniques give the photos an ineffable aura (think Walter Benjamin’s aura, à la “The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction”).

    Through June 14.

    Keith de Lellis Gallery
    1045 Madison Ave at 80th St.
    (212) 327-1482

    Another friend of mine, Caterina Bertolotto, has just mounted a show of her couture, “Dresses of Transportation,” at the Italian American Museum. Born in Piedmont, Caterina is one of the most colorful New Yorkers I’ve ever met, a true original, an artist, whose entire life — and it’s not an exaggeration to say this — is a work of art. She’s also the author of an Italian language instruction manual and a great Italian instructor. She has taught at the New School and also teaches privately.

    Through June 30.

    Italian American Museum
    28 W 44th St between 5th and 6th
    (212) 642-2020