1990 Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva, the Gambelli touch

From the department of “still catching up on remarkable wines that I tasted in 2012″…

old chianti sangiovese

This extraordinary bottle was the gift of an overly generous friend who sent it to me from Italy, where the bottle once resided in his cellar.

After it had rested in my San Diego cellar for a few weeks in November-early December, I picked it up from my locker and took it to the Jaynes Gastropub staff party on my last visit to California for the year.

There were many incredible wines opened that night, including a 2000 Amarone della Valpolicella from my cellar (always a thrill and always a joy to share).

But the wine of the night was this otherwise unassuming 1990 Chianti Classico Riserva by Lilliano, a venerated but quiet and often overlooked estate in Castellina (one of the core townships of historic Chianti).

It was unbelievably fresh and the fruit wonderfully vibrant and bright. And its singing acidity and judiciously balanced alcohol gave it that gentle zing that makes Chianti — when done right — so food friendly and moreish (we paired with a spread of California charcuterie, cheese, and crusty bread).

One of the most delightful surprises and best wines of my year.

I’ve been thinking about this wine because it was around this time last year that Giulio Gambelli — the legendary “taster” of Sangiovese — passed away (see also this collection of remembrances that I culled from the internets). Gambelli made his mark on so many iconic expressions of Sangiovese of our generation — Soldera, Poggio di Sotto, Monte Vertine, and so many others. But he also continued to consult for taste the wines of many of the historic Chianti estates, like Lilliano (Bibbiano is another one that comes to mind).

There are lightyears between a wine like this earthy and earthly Chianti and ethereal wines like Soldera’s or Poggio di Sotto’s. But there is also unmistakable red thread that unites them: it’s that gentle electricity (I don’t know how else to describe it) that makes traditional Sangiovese so unique in the world of fine red wine.

Many who have followed and observed Tuscan winemaking over the last generation would attribute that signature to Gambelli.

Thank you, FB, for this truly splendid bottle of wine, shared with a group of people I care about deeply.

It reminded me that great Sangiovese was, is, and can always be…

Anti-racist pizza & a studly view of Proseccoland (required reading) cc @Bele_Casel

racist pizza

This “kebab” pizza, prepared by pizzaiolo and restaurateur Alberto Barban of Pizzeria La Torre in Caerano di San Marco (province of Treviso) almost made it into my “best meals of 2012” series.

However delicious, this pizza just couldn’t compete with the many memorables meals of the year.

But it was unforgettable nonetheless: in a part of Italy where xenophobia and separatism sometimes trump human dignity and common sense, the notion of a pizza topped with kebab stands defiantly in the face of often unbridled racism.

Remember: in at least one Italian city, kebab (and kebab purveyors) has been banned from a historic city center. And in many urban areas, kebab and other Middle Eastern street food has been subject to de facto marginalization (you’ll find no kebab stands in the village of Caerano). While young Italians enjoy kebab as much as young people anywhere do in the West (Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles…), the dish has become synecdoche for the north Africans and Arabs who reside in Europe.

When Georgia P, Tracie P, and I stayed in Caerano di San Marco last September, we ate at the pizzeria on three different occasions. And after becoming friendly with Alberto, I asked him to make me his favorite pizza.

We didn’t speak of its underlying social commentary. But I couldn’t help reflect and remark on the fact that it makes perfect gastronomic sense: after all, pizza’s origins fall somewhere in a shared Mediterranean culinary legacy that includes pita and myriad expressions of flatbread.

Chapeau bas, Alberto!

The pizzeria was recommend to us by our friend and client Luca Ferraro, Prosecco producer in Asolo (a short drive from Caerano).

On Luca’s blog today, we posted amazing photos of his mountain bike ascent to a pre-Alpine pass.

italy alps mountain bike

The images are impressive as they are picturesque. But, beyond the studly ascent, I can’t think of a better way to illustrate the unique combination of topography, altitude, and marittime influence that define Proseccoland.

I highly recommend the post to anyone trying to wrap her/his mind around what makes Prosecco, Proseccoland, and the Veneto so special (at least to me).

Buona lettura, yall…

Neb[b]iolo and Politics in 1950s Italy

luigi einaudi vignetta large

Above: This caricature of the second president of the Italian republic Luigi Einaudi, farm owner and producer of Dolcetto and Nebbiolo, was published in 1950 in Italy. The monarchist publisher was convicted of libel. Click on the image for a larger version and note that Nebbiolo is spelled with one b.

The often workaday nature of my professional life is balanced by my insatiable curiosity and the unmitigated access to all kinds of information via the internets.

Yesterday, as I was roaming around the web and trolling for nuggets about the Einaudi winery in Dogliani (for one of the many restaurant sites that I curate), I came across this wonderful caricature of Italy’s second president (and winemaker), Luigi Einaudi, a figure whom I admire immensely for his opposition to historic fascism.

The Einaudi family has played impressive roles in Italian contemporary history, society, and culture, including Luigi’s son Giulio’s legacy as a publisher (the bookshelves of our home are line with works of literature and critical essays published by Einaudi, including collections of Pasolini’s writings), his son Ludovico’s legacy as a musician, and son Mario’s strident anti-fascism.

In 1950, when Luigi Einaudi became the second president of the Italian Republic, the monarchist review Candido parodied him in the caricature above.

Einaudi is the figure in the center, guarded by corazzieri (a presidential guard of Neb[b]iolo) at the Quirinale, Italy’s presidential palazzo.

The episode reveals how fine wine, and Nebbiolo in particular, was viewed as an elitist indulgence at the time. It also gives us an indication of how wine visionaries like Einaudi (he was among the first to modernize his winery and he was a pioneer in his vision of building the wine export industry in Italy) were seen as misguided.

The satirical message of the vignette is this is how our new president expects to rebuild our country… with wine.

Einaudi sued the publisher for libel and won.

An Einaudi Dolcetto was Eric and Levi’s top pick this week in their The New York Times tasting panel. I’m a big fan myself… for the wine’s traditional and classic style… and for the family’s legacy as anti-fascists and intellectual celebrities…

My band hits the road: Austin, NYC, LA, & SF @NousNonPlus

jeremy parzen nous non plus wine

Above: That’s Céline Dijon and me (stage left) at a 2008 show we played in East Germany.

One of the nicest compliments that anyone ever made about our band, Nous Nous Plus, came from my friend and composer extraordinaire Mike Andrews (who produced our 2003 album Fixatione Orale and has played on a number of our tracks).

“Jar, you know what’s cool about your shows?” he said to me a few years ago (all of my rock-n-roll friends call me Jar), “you’re never embarrassed to laugh when your band plays. You totally rock it out but your shows are also super fun.”

Our shows are super fun and if you’ve never had a chance to see us in San Francisco at the Bardot a Go Go party, it’s one of my highlights every time we hit the road: it’s a dance party where they play 60s yéyé, everyone dresses in yéyé style, and Godard films are projected on the wall… It’s a blast… and it’s San Francisco

Tour dates and club info below…

*****

Bonne année 2013!

Nous Non Plus returns with a new album and tour dates in NYC, AUSTIN, LA and SF!

Le sex et la politique is now available on iTunes, Amazon and CDBaby.

NYC
Jan 26
Fontana’s – 105 Eldridge Street

AUSTIN
Feb 9
The Parish – 214 E. 6th Street

LOS ANGELES
Fête de St-Valentin
Feb 14
Bootleg Theater – 2220 Beverly Boulevard
TICKETS

SAN FRANCISCO
Feb 15
Bardot a go go
Rickshaw Stop – 155 Fell Street
PARTY INFO
TICKETS

french indy rock sexy

Best Meals 2012: w/ Frank Cornelissen @SottoLA

We’ve had so much fun sharing new foods with Georgia P and taking her to eat at our favorite restaurants this year. She visited Sotto (above) in Los Angeles twice in 2012. She ate meatballs, long noodle pastas, burrata, and discovered ragù, one of her favorite dishes of the year.

Sotto was also host to one of my most memorable dinners of the year, an event we hosted for winemaker Frank Cornellisen (btw, Levi, I posted some of my notes from the dinner here).

The squid-ink noodles tossed in uni (below) was my favorite dish for the year, for its purity of flavor and for its inspiration (via classic Sicilian cuisine).

I’ll never forget when Frank took a first bite of the food that night.

“This is the restaurant for my wines,” he said.

Best Meals 2012: Sotto (Los Angeles, November).

We had a truly epic dinner at Sotto last night with Frank Cornelissen (above with chef Zach Pollack, left, and chef Steve Samson, right).

Even though I’ve followed the wines for years, I’d never met Frank, who was visiting the U.S. for the first time with his wines (he had visited before he started making wine many years ago).

With all the mystery and aura that seems to surround him, I wasn’t sure what to expect. But I discovered that he’s a super cool dude, very approachable and just fun to talk to.

We spoke at length about what he calls the “zoo of Natural wine.”

“Natural wine hasn’t been defined and so we really can’t call wine Natural,” he said, noting that he doesn’t care for the term.

I was thoroughly impressed by his concept of “high definition” wines and I admired the respectful tone with which he spoke of his neighbors on Etna.

He speaks impeccable Italian, btw.

Levi always gets mad at me for doing this but I’m so slammed today (while on the road in southern California) that I’ll have to post my complete notes, including Lou’s thoughts, when I have a moment to catch my breath…

In the meantime, the seared tuna with raisins, pinenuts, and bread crumbs was INSANE (first food photo). And the squid ink spaghetti with uni was possible my top dish for 2012… amazing… And wow, what a thrill to finally get to taste the (declassified) Magma.

Levi, I promise to post all my notes asap!

Stay tuned…

Best meals 2012: Bacino Grande TY @PaoloCantele

Our first trip to Italy this year with Georgia P was so different than any other either Tracie P or I had ever made. Before our piccolina came along, dinner in Italy was the main meal of the day. But, as our friend Billy (Italophile father to a beautiful toddler) predicted, the mezzogiorno seating became the primary repast of our daily routine.

Lunch at the Ionian with our little bundle of joy was simply one of the most magical experiences of our lives. And the food was terrific: Georgia P couldn’t get enough of the paccheri.

Best Meals 2012: Bacino Grande (Porto Cesareo, Lecce, September).

On Paolo’s recommendation, we headed to Porto Cesareo for lunch today. We wanted beach chairs, umbrella, and a restaurant right on the sea and he pointed us to the west coast of the Salento peninsula to Bacino Grande.

The paccheri ai frutti di mare were one of the best things we’ve eaten on the entire trip. The key to a dish like this is for the jus of the seafood to be absorbed by the pasta. The sauce had just the right consistency and texture and gave the pasta a wonderful savory character, with just a touch of sweetness from the tomato. Superb…

The frittura di paranza: a paranza is a wooden fisherman’s boat used for coastal fishing. This dish is akin to a “captain’s platter” fry. This, also, was over the top good.

It doesn’t really get any fresher than this. I really loved the place, even though the staff was a little bit grouchy.

Georgia P LOVED the paccheri and she had a blast dipping her toes into the warm water of the Ionian. I love how Italians rejoice when you bring a baby into a restaurant and no one ever gives you a dirty look. We are having SO MUCH fun on this trip… She is our joy…

Best Meals 2012: Tony’s with @TerraUomoCielo

Tracie P and I have had so much fun sharing new foods with Georgia P this year. Leafing through posts on favorite meals this year, I am reminded of my friend Melanie Rehak’s wonderful book Eating for Beginners, where she chronicles her young son’s food awakenings along with her own.

The above photo of Georgia P, where she’s eating avocados for the first time, was taken around the same time that I visited one of my favorite restaurants in the world, Tony’s in Houston, owned by my friend and client Tony Vallone. The occasion was bromance Giovanni’s first visit to Texas.

Best Meals 2012: Tony’s (Houston, June).

Above: Tony’s foie gras au torchon is one of his signatures and one of the dishes where simplicity and purity of flavor is offset by detail in the presentation.

How could Giovanni’s visit to Texas be complete without a meal at Tony’s in Houston?

Tony is my client (I curate his website and his media relations) but he’s also become one of my best friends in Texas and he is the architect and author of some of the most stunning meals I’ve ever had. Yesterday, Giovanni and I drove to Houston to meet Cousin Marty for lunch and a confabulatio that centered around… yes, of course… food and wine

Above: Orecchiette with seared mortadella cubes and runny quail egg.

The secret to the rich yellow color of his pasta, said Tony, is locally sourced, organically farmed eggs. “But it’s also the fact that I use only flour and mineral water imported from Italy,” he added. Some would argue that sparkling mineral water is key to super pasta like this. But Tony insists that still water (acqua naturale) is a sine qua non.

Above: Halbut and seafood medley “al Mare Chiaro,” named after the neighborhood in Naples.

Tony’s is the only place in Texas where we eat fine seafood (a category we reserve otherwise for our trips to California). This dish was simply stunning in its simplicity and presentation (and my camera didn’t do it justice, frankly).

Above: Lamb chops.

Tony likes to tease me, calling me the chiodo (the nail) because I’m so careful about what and how much I eat. Lamb chops would have been a bit much for me for a Tuesday lunch but Giovanni dove in with gusto.

Above: General Manager and wine director Scott Sulma’s selection was right on.

And the wine? A tall order considering the fact that one of Italy’s top winemakers was seated at our table. And let’s face it, my general disdain for the Californian style is well known to my colleagues at Tony’s. But it also seemed right to have Giovanni taste something from my home state. GM Scott’s selection, Palmaz Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, delivered acidity, earth and gorgeous dark fruit, and balanced alcohol and wood. It was superb with the Bucatini all’Amatriciana that I had as my second course, playing beautifully against the savory guanciale in the dish. Chapeau bas, Scott!

Above: Nobody does it better than Tony.

I can’t conceal my pride in sharing the Tony’s experience with my good friend Giovanni, who made the trans-Atlantic crossing to see, hear, taste, and feel what life is like in Texas, California, and America.

Above: Two of my favorite fressers.

Thanks, again, Tony for yet another fantastic meal and an unforgettable experience. Ti ringrazio di cuore…

Best Meals 2012: Scarbolo’s Frasca

Our 2012 delivered more than a fair share of opulent meals. But looking back on our annus gastronomicus, the most memorable repasts — more often than not — stand out in my mind for the purity of their ingredients and the marvel of discovery, like Georgia P’s first encounter with burrata and ripe peaches (above) or this meal at one of my favorite restaurants in the world, Scarbolo’s Frasca…

Best Meals 2012: Valter Scarbolo’s Frasca (Lauzacco, province of Udine, April).

Valter Scarbolo makes wines in Grave and so there was no way for me to include him in the Colli Orientali del Friuli 2012 blogger project itinerary. But there was no way that I was coming to Friuli without spending an evening with him at his amazing Frasca. I’ll have to recount our conversation on Pinot Grigio and his 1995 trip — his first — to the U.S. in another post when I have more time. In the meantime, here’s what we ate…

As James Bond would say, “if it’s Prosciutto d’Osvaldo, you must have been expecting me.”

Rosa di Gorizia (Rose of Gorizia), a radicchio cultivar unique to Gorizia that resembles a rose.

White asparagus is in season. Valter served it raw, thinly sliced, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil and accompanied by delicately marinated goose breast. “It had to be extremely fresh,” he said, “to serve it raw like this.”

Riso nero Venere (black Venus rice) is a hybrid of Asian and Italian cultivars and, besides being delicious, is purported to have health-enhancing properties. Valter makes his with formadi frant, the truly unique, piquant cheese made from discarded and otherwise imperfect cheese — an ingredient that appears repeatedly in his cooking.

I asked Valter to show me the rice uncooked.

His My Time is always a treat to look forward to. The 2009 was unctuous and richer than previous vintages I’d tasted. And while it will undoubtedly become more elegant with some bottle age, its more muscular expression paired well with blood-rare pan-roasted and thinly sliced Prussian rumpsteak served with herbed formadi frant and montasio cheeses.

I’m posting this from the Colli Orientali del Friuli where the COF2012 trip has just begun… Stay tuned!

Best meals 2012: Le Logge (Siena), first visit

homemade pizza orange texas

Looking back on the best meals of 2012 (a mnemonic indulgence to which I treat myself every year between the Christmas holiday and New Year’s Eve), I can’t help but think about how the standouts were marked as much by the people with whom I shared them as much as the foods we ate and the wines we drank. Isn’t that what it’s all about?

That’s Georgia P, above, eating her first pizza (homemade, by Tracie P, of course), a few nights before Christmas. Whether Parisi eggs and birth-year Barolo or mushroom and peperoni pizza, 2012 delivered some of the most memorable meals of my lifetime. Buona lettura e buon appetito!

Best Meals 2012: Osteria Le Logge (Siena, March).

Alfonso and I met up in Siena yesterday afternoon and joined good friends Laura and Francesco at Laura’s restaurant Osteria Le Logge for dinner.

As I prepare to head up to Friuli today, there’s not enough time to post properly on the brilliant meal and stunning flight of wines. But here’s a “taste” of the “intellectual provocation”… THANK YOU, again, dear friends, Laura and Francesco, for opening your hearts to two weary Americans traveling along the wine trail in Italy…

Atlantic croaker sausage with mineral-water-macerated lettuces sous-vide

veal tongue Carpaccio in salsa verde

vitello tonnato with seaweed and ポン酢醤油 (ponzu jōyu)

Parisi egg with potato foam and marzolino truffles

fusilli with chicken livers and eggplant

Marcarini 1967 Barolo Brunate

Any excuse for Dante: Champagne cheat sheet

From the department of “there’s always a good excuse to talk about Dante’s Comedy”…

bear dalton champagne

Above: The legendary Bear Dalton of Houston, Texas was my Virgil…

The weather outside was frightful when I rolled up to the mothership Spec’s on Smith St. [in Houston] yesterday afternoon.

But it wasn’t half as scary as the demolition derby that was unfolding in the parking lot there, between the old school Caddys, the C-Class Benzes, and the obligatory and ubiquitous GMC SUV, whose soccer mom pilot insisted on backing it into a space otherwise suited for a compact.

The holiday wine shopping scene inside reminded me of Dante’s bufera (you know, the “storm” in the fifth Canto of the Inferno, “Where ‘mid the gust, the whirlwind, and the flaw / Of rain and hail-stones, lovers need not tell / Their sorrows,” as Keats once wrote). Lustfully happy wine shoppers literally flew through the aisles, navigating their passage between scantily clad women with painted faces offering plastic cups filled with all sorts of highly charged alcoholic beverages.

As I descended through the circles of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, “Cab,” and Merlot, many a salesperson asked me graciously if I needed any help in finding what I was looking for.

But my Virgil was to be another…

Click here to continue reading my post this week for the Houston Press.