He ain’t heavy: uncle and brother Tad, thank you for coming to see us in Houston @tadsethparzen

tad parzenBrother and uncle Tad, there are so many things that I want to tell you and share with you.

But right now I just want to thank you for bringing your family to Houston to spend a long weekend with us last weekend. That meant the world to me, Tracie P, and the girls.

Thinking about the time we spent together in Texas, so many songs from our childhood and adolescence brim in my mind. But today, I’m thinking of another song. This one, every last word of it, is for you…

The road is long
With many a winding turn
That leads us to who knows where
Who knows when
But I’m strong
Strong enough to carry him
He ain’t heavy, he’s my brother

So on we go
His welfare is of my concern
No burden is he to bear
We’ll get there
For I know
He would not encumber me
He ain’t heavy, he’s my brother

If I’m laden at all
I’m laden with sadness
That everyone’s heart
Isn’t filled with the gladness
Of love for one another

It’s a long, long road
From which there is no return
While we’re on the way to there
Why not share
And the load
Doesn’t weigh me down at all
He ain’t heavy, he’s my brother

He’s my brother
He ain’t heavy, he’s my brother…

Slow Wine Tasting February 1 in Austin (public service announcement)

From the department of “rocket science”…

slow wine tour 2016 usa“Forgive me if this is a bit impertinent,” wrote Alder Yarrow on the Slow Wine magazine website on January 8, 2016, “but the tasting in San Francisco is less than 20 days away, and there is no reference anywhere on this web site, or elsewhere on the internet about where consumers (never mind the trade or the press) could buy tickets if they wanted to actually attend…”

Alder, one of the leading wine writers in America today and a pioneer among wine bloggers, was lamenting the fact that the PR firm who is supposedly promoting the upcoming Slow Wine guide tour of the U.S. has done virtually nothing to raise awareness of the events.

In the wine-loving public’s interest, Giancarlo Gariglio, the guide’s co-editor-in-chief, has created this page for the Austin, Texas tasting, which takes place on February 1.

It includes a list of the wineries who will be presenting their wines (THANK YOU, Giancarlo!) as well a link to the Eventbright that allows you to register.

For the sake of expedience, here are the event details (including the new venue, which was recently changed by the organizers):

February 1, 2016
1-5 p.m.
Ironwood Hall
505 E. 7th Street
Austin TX 78701
Google map
REGISTRATION

I’m looking forward to catching up with Giancarlo when his crew visits Texas… And I hope to see you there and get the opportunity to taste with you.

And Colangelo PR, please keep up the good work!

Image via the Slow Wine Facebook.

A new Master’s program in wine culture (where I’ll be teaching)

MEET ME IN MIAMI
TOMORROW JAN. 21
Taste Franciacorta with me
at Wolfe’s Wine Shoppe
click here for details

pollenzo university gastronomic sciencesIt gives me great pleasure to share the news that the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo (Piedmont) is now offering a Master’s degree in Wine Culture.

And I am thrilled to be part of it: later this year I will be one of the instructors teaching “Wine Journalism and Wine Blogging.”

I guess my Ph.D. in Italian is worth something after all!

Seriously, I’m very geeked that my good friend Michele Antonio Fino (below), who teaches food law and policy there, asked me to be part of the program.

Other instructors include Michele (whom I admire immensely, especially for his command of Latin and his work in shaping food policy in Italy), Massimo Montanari (a pioneering Italian food historian and one of my heroes), Maurizio Gily (one of the leading enologists and wine writers in Italy today), Armando Castagno (one of Italy’s top technical tasters and one the Italian wine world’s greatest lecturers), and Alessandro Morichetti (my Italian blogging counterpart, who loves to stir the pot at Intravino, Italy’s most popular wine blog).

But these are just a handful of the Italian wine thinkers with whom students will get the opportunity to interact over the course of 500 hours of study.

Pretty cool, right?

You can read the complete overview of the program in English here.

Michele, the best part is going to be having the chance to spend some time with you on campus! We’re finally going to get to watch “Anchor Man” together!

E mi raccomando: proiezione in lingua inglese senza sottotitoli! Così mi spiegherai l’etimologia del toponimo “San Diego” (il mio loco natio).

michele fino pollenzo

Asshole wine blogger? Yeah, that would be me and proud of it.

benetton handcuffs adAbove: an image from Oliviero Toscani’s 1989 United Colors of Benetton campaign (via the Benetton corporate website).

Today is Martin Luther King, Jr. Day, a nationally observed holiday in the U.S.

The commemoration has different meanings for different people. For me personally, it’s a day to reflect on love and hate, mercy and accountability, healing and division, what came before us and what lies ahead… We’ve come a long way but we sure have a long way to go. That’s the way I see it.

There couldn’t be a better day to stand up for and stand by what I believe in my heart and what I have written here on my blog, Do Bianchi — a diary of my life, my family, my work, and my thoughts.

Last week, I began receiving a tide of messages from wine trade colleagues informing me that a California-based importer of Italian wines had repeatedly made reference to me as “the asshole blogger” and “blogger stronzo” who has led a “conspiracy” against a Friulian winemaker (blogger stronzo means literally turd blogger in Italian, the equivalent of asshole blogger). The importer in question is now importing the Friulian winemaker’s wines.

I’m not going to post any links here to the importer’s blog or social media. And I’ve been told that he has subsequently removed the references to me.

But in case you’re wondering about the Friulian winemaker and in case you missed the firestorm that followed, here’s the 2013 post that provides the backstory. In the comment thread, you’ll find that the winemaker in question is very open about his political views and ideology. I’ll leave it at that.

One of my California-based wine trade colleagues wrote a Facebook post about the importer’s visit to his shop.

“I see a young colleague is importing said winemaker’s wines to the States again,” he writes in conclusion, “and he’s bitching via social media that those who ‘boycotted’ the wines are ‘assholes.’ I’m a big boy and am OK with my status as an asshole, but only ask that you refer to me as Dottore Asshole.”

Like my colleague, I don’t mind being called an “asshole blogger” when the epithet is used against me because of something I believe in and have written about here on my blog.

Amen. So be it. If being an asshole means standing up for and standing by what I believe to be right, then feel free to call me an asshole. I can live with that. I couldn’t and can’t live with not standing up for and standing by what I believe in.

Happy Martin Luther King, Jr. Day!

Sincerely,

Dottor Asshole

Sparkle with me in Miami: Franciacorta Real Story tasting Jan. 21 @WolfesWines

Please join me next Thursday, January 21, for a tasting of 11 Franciacorta wines.

FRANCIACORTA REAL STORY TASTING
Thursday, January 21
6-8 p.m.

Wolfe’s Wine Shoppe
124 Miracle Mile
Miami, FL 33134
305-445-4567
Google map

grapes franciacorta

He’s told us not to blow it ’cause he knows it’s all worthwhile 

Your songs taught me how to play guitar and how to be okay even though I was different. I never would have made it through high school without you. We will miss you, Starman. Thank you for all you gave us.

david bowie

Ridiculously good things I’ve eaten in Puglia and Franciacorta tasting January 21

I am buzzed to announce the first Franciacorta Real Story tasting of 2016, which will take place in Miami on Thursday, January 21. Click here for details. And honestly, Miami is a market where I don’t have a lot of contacts so if anyone can give me a hand in spreading the news, there’s a bottle of Franciacorta in it for you! Thanks and please join me if you can!

burrata ravioli recipeIt may seem glamorous and super fun to be on the road with a bunch of coolio wine writers in Italy. In fact, it means very early mornings and late evenings for me keeping up with all my work back home.

Having said that, this trip has been a lot of fun and it’s a truly simpatico group of folks with whom I’m glad to spend some one-on-one time.

Yesterday, my friend and client Paolo Cantele (who sponsored the trip) treated us to a private dinner at his family’s winery. Those are burrata-stuffed ravioli, above, topped with baby shrimp and broccoli raab. Unbelievably good. They prompted a lively discussion of the tabu of mixing seafood and dairy. I can’t reveal the name of the chef because Paolo doesn’t want to risk offending other local chefs. But man, he just friggin’ killed it last night.

Below is a snap of the homemade orecchiette with meatballs we had for lunch as we tasted through the wines at the winery (yes, they traditionally serve pasta with meatballs here in Puglia).

They were made by a famous local pastmaker aptly called L’orecchietta. I can’t share the website because it’s been hacked by an online prostitution page.

It was a game-changing dish, for reals.

I now have literally 10 minutes to shit, shower, and shave (as we used to say in my rock ‘n’ roll touring days) before heading downstairs to meet the group. We’re touring vineyards and Pierce’s Disease-affected olive groves today.

More to come… stay tuned!

orecchiette recipe

A mozzarella backwater in Caianello (Caserta province, Campania)

caianello mozzarellaHonestly, I can’t tell you why the small town of Caianello, about 30 minutes north of Naples on the autostrada heading south from Rome, is an epicenter for artisanal mozzarella production.

All I do know is that Tracie P and I stopped there a few years ago when we traveling in southern Italy with our then one-year-old daughter Georgia P and Tracie was pregnant with Lila Jane.

Tra had a case of hunger pangs and so we literally took the first exit we could find. And it was only by chance that we stumbled on to this mozzarella backwater.

caianello caseificioYesterday, when our group of wine writers made a lunch pitstop there, the lines at the (evidently super famous) Caseificio La Pagliara were just as long as the last time. And so we headed down the road to the Bottega dei Buoni Sapori for simple sandwiches of moreish plastic cheese and delicious bread.

If you ever make the same journey, I highly recommend it.

Today, we’re in Lecce, Puglia where we’ll be heading out to taste with my good friend and client Paolo Cantele at his family’s winery…

A FANTASTIC trattoria in Trastevere (Rome) and a Befana to burn

Notes from the eternal city…

best trattoria trastevere romePosting in a hurry this morning for Rome before our group of writers heads to Salento for wine tasting, eating, and touring for three days.

But just had to share the tip: dinner at Tavernaccia in Trastevere last night was phenomenally good. No website but here’s the Google place page.

Not only did we eat one of the best spaghetti alla gricia I’ve ever had but we also had what we unanimously declared the best roast suckling pig in history.

Excellent wine list with lots of natty Friulian.

Thank you to Hande and Theo for turning us on to this amazing place. Some of us cried… it was that good. And the price was ridiculously affordable.

befana italy burnThis morning, my college-days buddy Steve shared this photo from Prato della Valle in Padua (my old stomping ground).

That’s the Befana, the witch who comes on the night of January 5 each year to bring children presents or lumps of coal. She will be burned later today, sweeping out the old and welcoming the new year.

Here’s the Wiki entry to learn more (really interesting to read up on the tradition’s origins, btw).

That’s all I have time to post this morning. Stay tuned!

The future of Italian wine…

Take us the foxes, the little foxes, that spoil the vines: for our vines have tender grapes.
Song of Solomon 2:15

english name marche marchesIn his predictions for “The Wine Stories That Will Shape 2016” published by PUNCH a few weeks ago, Jon Bonné included Italy… but only as an afterthought.

Actually, Italy is an after-afterthought in his view of the international vinous landscape.

“Greece,” he wrote in the last paragraph, “after years of being patted on the head, will rise from its economic muddle to become a serious contender to Spain and Italy.”

That’s all the space he devoted to one of the world’s largest producers of fine wine.

In the light of Italy’s uninteresting status in the global enonarrative, you might think that it’s time for all of us Italian wine bloggers to hang it up and call it a day.

But respectfully, I beg to differ with Mr. Bonné.

And my appetite for compelling Italian wine stories has already been whetted in 2016 by Mr. Cevola’s post yesterday, “What Will the Next Ten Years Hold for Italian Wine in America?” Whether you’re an Italian wine lover here in the U.S. or an Italian winemaker, I highly recommend it to you.

But the story that sticks in my mind this morning as I prepare to board a flight for Rome (my first trip of many this year) doesn’t have anything to do with indigenous or exogenous grape varieties, organic and biodynamic grape growing, or the world’s expanding and unquenchable thirst for Italian bubbles.

No, it has to do with the birth of a child in Verdicchio country (one of the coolest undiscovered categories in Italian wine today in my view).

In November of last year, a child was born to our dear friends Silvia and Alessandro in Maiolati Spontini (Ancona province in the Marches or Marche as the region is known in Italian).

Even in a time when consumption of wine is declining rapidly in Italy; a time when 70 per cent of Italian wine is exported and it’s virtually impossible to survive as a winemaker unless you are selling most of your products in foreign markets; a time when Italy’s economic and cultural challenges are so great that the nation seems locked in an unshakable malaise; a time when the country’s negative birthrate continues to dip even lower

Even in these trying times for Italian winemakers, there are those among them who look to the future with hope in their hearts and minds.

In the Marches, when a child is born, family friends fasten decorations like the swan above to the parents’ house. They won’t remove them until the newborn’s family invites them all over for a celebratory meal. It’s a local tradition, as Silvia explained in an email she sent me a few weeks ago.

Biodynamic farmers, Silvia and Alessandro grow grapes for wine and olives for oil without the use of chemicals or additives. They advocate for wholesome living and sustainable consumption. They count their carbon footprints down to the weight of the bottles they ship their wines in.

They’re confident that there is a future in what they are doing.

And from where I stand, there couldn’t be a more compelling story than their newborn son Cesare and the tender grapes they grow.

Happy 2016, everyone! Thanks for being here. I’m leaving today for Rome and then heading to Salento with a group of some of my favorite writers. I’ll see you on the other side… Stay tuned for more and new boring stories from Italian wine country.