Soldera 03 Riserva and dinner at Il Silene

Had the opportunity to chat and to taste some amazing wines with Gianfranco Soldera yesterday (but more on that later) and then was treated to dinner at what many consider the best restaurant in this neck of the Tuscan woods, Il Silene. Utterly delicious all around and a truly remarkable pairing (especially considering the balance in the wine from the otherwise-difficult-to-tame 2003 vintage).

That’s chef Roberto Rossi’s snail and vegetable soup paired with 2003 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.

That’s Chef Rossi’s tagliatelle al ragù (evidently Soldera had eaten there at lunch as well yesterday, making the 1-hour drive 4 times in one day just to dine there!). Fantastic wines, stupendous dinner…

Posting in a hurry as sunlight, landscape, vines, and my camera have a date this morning… then to lunch with friends…

pomodori fiorentini

The figs from the property managed by laura and marco were amazing. The tomatoes are pomodori fiorentini, known for their “wrinkles,” I believe they are also called _grinzosi_, “wrinkled in italian. So good with some mozzarella di bufala from campania and their estate evoo. Thanks again laura and marco for taking in this weary traveler!

Sangiovese: origins of the enonym (grape name)

Yesterday on the Twitter, Alfonso asked me about the origins of the enonym Sangiovese. (I bet you’re wondering about the significance of the “allegory of music” from an illuminated Renaissance manuscript to the left but more on that below.)

First off, in all of my readings, I have found no one and nowhere that point to sangue di Giove (blood of Jupiter [Zeus]) as a philologically tenable origin of the grape name. This is what philologists call a folkloric etymology, most likely due to the quasi-homonymic (and Romantic) rapport between the enonym and purported etymon (the literal sense of a word according to its origin). While divine blood plays a central role in Christian myth and liturgy (another element that most likely contributes to the folkloric etymology), it is not found in the Roman or Italian cults that honored Jupiter during the vinaliae (wine festivals) of late antiquity. (For the record, blood does play a role in the myth of Zeus, when the “blood from the birth of Zeus begins to boil up” in a “sacred cave of bees… said to be found on Crete.” See this profile of Rhea, who gave birth to the deity.)

Most scholars believe the most plausible etymon to be sangiovannina, a term which denotes an early ripening grape in the dialect of Sarzana, a township that lies on the border of Liguria and Tuscany in northwestern Tuscany. (Hohnerleien-Buchinger, 1996, cited in Vitigni d’Italia, eds. A. Scienza et alia).

It’s also possible that Sangiovese comes from sangiovannese, an ethnonym denoting an inhabitant of San Giovanni Valdarno, a town in the province of Arezzo. (I actually think this is the most likely answer to the conundrum; here’s a link to the Sangiovannese soccer team website.)

Others yet point to the etymon jugalis (Latin yoke), giogo in Italian, possibly derived from a vine training system. (There is a precedent in the enonym Schiava but I believe this an unlikely linguistic kinship.)

In my research last night (conducted in the golden hour, when the day’s toil is through, and Tracie P and I relax before dinner), I came across a wonderful journal devoted to Romagnolo (the dialect of Romagna). It’s called Ludla (click to download the edition I found), or spark in Romagnolo. In it, I found an article on the origin of Sanzves, the Romagnolo inflection of Sangiovese. Here’s where it gets really interesting…

It’s important to remember that the enonym appears for the first time in Tuscany in the 16th century as Sangiogheto (Soderini, 1590) and today, most ampelographers concur that Sangiovgheto or Sangioveto are geographically aligned with Tuscany while Sangiovese is more closely related to Romagna (on the other side of the Apennines).

The author of the Ludla article proposes that Sanzves might be derived (however remotely) from Mons Jovis, a site near the town of Savignano (where the Romagnoli believe the grape to have originated, another possible linguistic kinship), today known as Giovedìa, where Jupiter (Giove, in Italian) was worshiped in late antiquity.

The bottom line? It’s very likely that we will never know the true origin of the enonym. But that’s not important.

The images that adorn this post (allegories of musica and rehtorica) are culled from a Renaissance codex of De Nuptiis Philologiae et Mercurii (On the Marriage of Philology and Mercury) by Martianus Capella, a pagan writer of late antiquity whose work formed the basis for the study of the liberal arts in western civilization. Philology is literally the love of words and Mercury is the mythical embodiment of commerce or intelligent pursuit.

While we may never know the etymon of the enonym, the journey of discovery by the way offers rewards all the more satisfying to our intellectual curiosity, emboldening our knowledge and awareness of the world around us.

When we marry the love of words and intelligent pursuit, only good things are bound to happen. The same thing happens when we pair a great bottle of Brunello with a bistecca alla fiorentina (something I hope to do later this week).

Thanks for reading…

Harvest has begun in Tuscany and I’m heading to Montalcino

Catching up today in the wake of the holiday weekend, I read that harvest has begun in Montalcino.

I’ll be heading to Montalcino later this week: I’ll be visting and tasting with winemakers in Montalcino and Bolgheri starting this weekend and then, if all goes according to plan, I’ll be heading north for some interesting visits… but more on that later…

While in Montalcino, I’ll put my ear to the ground and try to find out what’s in store for Brunello. I’ll also be talking to winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci of Il Poggione about his role as the technical adviser to the Brunello producers association and his hopes for preserving traditional winemaking there.

And hopefully I’ll get an invite to dinner in the Bindocci’s home: remember the meal of pork glands and chestnut-flour polenta that signora Bindocci made for me and Tracie P in February?

Stay tuned…

Champers and pizza? Hell yeah!

Parzen family dinner yesterday evening at the Parzen coterie’s semi-official pizzeria Mamma Mia began with a killer bottle of Bobby Stuckey’s Scarpetta Timido Brut Rosé, made from Pinot Nero and Franconia (drinking through some of the orphans from 2Bianchi Wine Selections). This wine is just so juicy and yummy and super food friendly. It was fantastic with pizzaiolo Cinzia’s awesome panzerotti.

Next came a bottle of Billecart-Salmon that had been gifted to brother Tad for his 50th birthday (I wonder by whom?). As BrooklynGuy likes to point out, Champagne is first and foremost a wonderful food-friendly wine and this delicious bottle delivered seamlessly: the bright acidity in the mineral-rich wine and its 12% alcohol were perfect with my prosciutto e funghi.

Tracie P and I were so happy to have three uninterrupted days and nights in San Diego with family and friends. Champers and pizza was the icing on the cake!

Happy birthdays brother Tad (August 17) and mama Judy (September 22)!

A favorite Prosecco and Panzanella del Prete

Yesterday evening, before heading out to see our friends play music in Bird Rock (La Jolla), Tracie P and I were the guests of the Reynolds, who live in the house where I spent my childhood years.

Mrs. Reynolds made a fantastic dish that I’d never had before, panzanella del prete (above), the priest’s panzanella, a “rich” version of the classic Tuscan dish of summer, panzanella, a summer salad made with leftover saltless Tuscan bread and chopped summer vegetables and herbs (basil, tomato, cucumber, red onion, etc.).

Mrs. Reynolds even baked the Tuscan bread herself, using a Marcella Hazan recipe. Her panzanella del prete (a traditional dish of Garfagnana, northwest Tuscany) had olive-oil packed tuna and blanched carrots, and tomatoes and thyme grown in her garden. Utterly delicious…

We paired the dish with what has become my favorite wine of the summer, the best Prosecco (IMHO) that you can buy in the U.S., Costadilà.

Made with ambient yeast, fermented in bottle, and aged on its lees (with no filtering), Costadilà Prosecco is the type of Prosecco I would drink when I was living and playing music in the province of Belluno during graduate-school summers. Each year, I’d drive down to visit with Nico Naldini (Pasolini’s cousin and collaborator) down in Solighetto in the heart of Prosecco country.

This wine isn’t for everyone: it’s cloudy and crunchy, salty and gritty… and man, it is UNBELIEVABLY good…

Dulcis in fundo…

I love seeing all my high school friends, like Michael Kornberg (left) and Andrew Harvey, who brought his baby girl to his gig last night. Andrew is a fantastic drummer (he plays with me in the Grapes, too).

The baby fever going around is contagious!