Alice Feiring in Austin Sunday & Monday

It seems like a lifetime ago that Tracie P and I met Alice on our first trip to Europe together. Tracie P and I were in Paris to play with Nous Non Plus and Alice was there to write a piece on Natural wine and our paths happily crossed.

I’ve known Alice for more than 10 years and she’s one of our dearest, dearest friends. A big sister, a mentor, and one of the most fun people to be around on this planet, no matter what mischief we’re up to.

Alice has a new book, Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally, and she’s coming to Austin for a few readings: Sunday at Whole Foods Market on Lamar and Monday at Vino Vino. Both events are being presented by the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas.

Tracie P and I will be at both events, of course, and I hope you can join us to hear Alice read from her new book and taste some Natural wines with us.

Beyond our deep friendship, I support Alice in her cause to spread the word about Natural wine not just because I enjoy Natural wines but because I believe that Natural wines and the people who make them (and drink them) can save the world from the ills of our increasingly industrialized food chain.

In other news…

I’m making one last trip before Baby P arrives: Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings of next week, I’ll be pouring wine on the floor at Sotto in Los Angeles where I’ve curated the wine list this year.

We’ll be debuting one last flight of wines for the fall before I take a break for daddy duty, including one of the best wines I’ve tasted this year… More on that later…

Thanks for reading and stay tuned!

Gaia Gaja’s cowgirl boots (and my first Alba truffles of the season)

Yesterday found me back in Houston where I had lunch with my friend and client Tony and Gaia Gaja.

To mark the occasion of her Houston, Texas visit, Gaia donned the cowgirl boots she had picked up on her previous visit (above). As the saying goes, you can take a girl out of the country but you can’t take the country out of the girl. After all, she does come from a town where they didn’t have running water until 1964.

As you can imagine, Tony pulled out all the stops for the luncheon: I’ve posted my complete notes on the meal and the wines over at his site here.

I wasn’t surprised by the Gaja 2007 Barbaresco: however strange (by virtue of the fact that there was no winter to speak of), the 2007 vintage was generous to Barbaresco and everything I’ve tasted so far has been great to phenomenal (remember when Tracie P and I tasted 2007 Asili and Santo Stefano with Bruno Giacosa?).

But it was Gaia’s family’s 2008 Barbaresco that really blew me away. In a challenging vintage, Gaja was blessed with very juicy, well ripened fruit. Green harvesting and southern exposure of their vineyards delivered mature grapes, said Gaja, and allowed them to pick before inclement weather arrived. The floral notes on the wine were fantastic and although still very young in its evolution, it had that zinging acidity and powerful tannin that makes Barbaresco such a unique appellation imho and one of my favorite wines in the world.

My favorite dish of the meal was the branzino and poached potato tartar topped with caviar and paired with the 2009 Gaia & Rey Chardonnay (a guilty pleasure, I must admit).

Click here for all of my notes, including the 2005 Sperss, and images of the dishes…

Thanks again, Tony and Gaia!

Italian nuclear family dinner

My friend Stefano Spigariol and I have known each other for more than 20 years, since I first came to Italy to study Italian philology in Padua where he studied Latin. Like many of my friends from university days, he works in the publishing industry in Milan, as a publicist for a top scholastic publishing house.

He’s one of my best friends in Italy and our confabulatio always ranges from the erudite to the rock ‘n’ roll, from the sacred to the profane.

He, his wife Anna (a lawyer), and daughter Matilde live in a one-bedroom apartment near the center of Milan.

Last night, they had me over for dinner: cheese and charcuterie, bread and taralli, roast chicken legs, Veneto-style braised cabbage, and a caponata, paired with a bottle of 2009 Sordo Dolcetto — an old-school expression of the grape variety that Stefano picked up for less than Euro 10 at his local wine shop.

I can’t think of a better meal for my last night in Italy…

Thanks again, Anna, Matilde, and Stefano… I love you guys!

Fantastic lunch at Osteria al Bianchi (Brescia)

Tagliatelle Pestëm (tagliatelle tossed with tomatoes and crumbled pork sausage) and Casconcelli (stuffed with finely ground beef).

Fegato Burro e Salvia (liver sautéed in butter and sage, served with grilled polenta).

Bagòss (made with saffron, a local speciality, very piquant), Parmigiano Reggiano, Gorgonzola (dolce, unbelievably good), and Taleggio.

Zabaglione (a must).

Osteria al Bianchi.

Highly recommended.

Sotto named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants 2011

I’ve been having a blast this year curating the wine list at Sotto, which has just been named “one of the best new restaurants of 2011” by Esquire.

Chef Steve Samson (above) and I became close friends nearly a quarter of a century ago when we were on our junior year abroad in Italy. He and Chef Zach Pollack have been doing great things in the kitchen and the Neapolitan pizza is imho one of the best if not the best in the country.

Congratulazioni ragazzi! You ROCK! :)

The best meal in Italy so far: Le Logge, Siena

Honestly, the meal, earlier in the week, at Valter Scarbolo’s Frasca in Friuli was an all-time great. But dinner last Thursday in Siena with friends Marina and Francesco at Laura Brunelli’s Osteria Le Logge was one of the best meals of my life.

I’d eaten at Le Logge many years ago but not since the Brunelli family brought chef Nico Atrigna (right) to Siena from Campania in the mid-1990s. Laura Brunelli (left), whom I’d never met, also dined with us.

Parisi Slow-Cooked Egg with Dashi Broth, Licorice, Chives.

Note the intense yellow orange of the yolk. Parisi feeds his chickens goat milk to obtain the rich flavor and color. The best egg I’ve ever had, hands down. (See Katie Parla’s excellent post on Parisi.)

Marinated Anchovies with Tomato and Spring Onion.

Ricotta Pudding with Eggplant and Thyme Cream.

Ox Tongue with Cured Cinta Senese Shoulder Served over a Spinach Orzotto. (Cinta Senese is Siena’s heirloom striped pig, smaller in size than most hogs, making for ineffably delicate salt-cured pork.)

Veal Roulades Stuffed with Escarole and Pine Nuts Served over a Raisin and Onion Ragù.

Lamb Confit with Dried Fava Bean and Swiss Chard Sauce.

What did we drink? Stay tuned…

The best polenta I’ve ever had…

Polenta with melted Montasio cheese and chanterelle mushrooms last night at Valter Scarbolo’s amazing Frasca in Friuli.

Unbelievable…

Having a lot of difficulties getting online while here in Friuli with Team Nonino… Click here to read about the rest of our meal…

Fast food and fine wine pairing, my post today for Houston Press

After I read an article in this week’s The New York Times reporting that the fast food chain Sonic has begun offering its guests wine, I was inspired to contemplate the pairing of fast food and fine wine for the Houston Press today.

I had a lot of fun with it and you might be surprised by what I came up with and the folks that appear in the post. Here it is…

Thanks for reading!

Rocking the Kids Are Alright for a good cause

The Grapes (above), Jaynes Gastropub’s entry into last night’s San Diego Battle of the Chef Bands, took third place.

The competition was fierce but we were there to promote awareness for the San Diego Center for Community Solutions whose mission is “to end relationship and sexual violence by being a catalyst for caring communities and social justice.”

Everyone had a blast…

Las Cuatro Milpas

Las Cuatro Milpas
1875 Logan Ave
(right by Chicano Park)
San Diego, California
(619) 234-4460‎

Atmosphere: Old school, friendly
Cost: Super affordable
Favorite dish: Chorizo con huevo
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED