Latimis by Ronco del Gelso an orange wine ante litteram @IlBuco_AV

latimis ronco gelso isonzo

When the server at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria on Great Jones (in lower Manhattan) brought out the Ronco del Gelso 2010 Latimis (Isonzo del Friuli) by-the-glass last night, I was sure that he had mistakenly brought me one of the winery’s top wines in the place of one of the entry-tier labels.

But my good friend Roberto Paris, the restaurant’s general manager and one of my favorite NYC wine professionals, explained that he had bought the wine on a closeout and was able to offer it by the glass.

The rich, golden wine — a blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco, Traminer, and Riesling — was dominated in its aromatic profile by the latter two grapes.

An orange wine ante litteram, it was simply stunning in the glass, muscular and confident, “drinking beautifully right now,” as Roberto noted.

It’s one of the great things about dining in Manhattan: you never know when you’re going to find a surprise like this by the glass.

Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria is the more casual incarnation of the storied Il Buco on Bond, one of my haunts from my years in the city. It was great to catch up with Roberto and reminisce about the years when the Italian wine renaissance began to take shape in NYC.

Posting in a hurry this morning as I rush to grab a high-speed train to Philadelphia.

An INCREDIBLE dinner at Marea last night. Will tell all asap… Thanks for reading!

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