A brilliant 98 Clos du Bourg for an old friend

clos du bourg

One of my best and oldest friends was in Austin over the weekend… John “Yele” Yelenosky, whom I’ve known since high school.

Of course, I wanted to open a very special bottle of wine and with temperatures here in the triple digits, Nebbiolo just wasn’t going to be right.

So I reached for this brilliant, youthful bottle of 1998 Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg by Huet that I had bought a few years ago from the Garagiste.

This wine was razor sharp in its focus, with that unmistakable, nervy acidity that is unique to great Vouvray in my experience. Minerality, acidity, stone fruit, and alcohol (12.5%): each element was distinct and perfectly articulated, but ensemble, each sang in stunning counterpoint with the other. A breath-taking wine…

I’m sure I could have let it age for another ten years but it was a thrill to taste it with John and his wife Megan, both top wine professionals from Southern California (she’s a beverage manager for a major San Diego hotel, wine writer, and Master Sommelier candidate; he’s been the top European sales rep for Southern Wine & Spirits So. Cal. for six years running).

I had already stood the wine upright last week in anticipation of their visit to Austin and then, lo and behold, on Thursday, Brooklyn Guy posted another one of his gems, an overview of recent changes at this landmark winery and tasting notes for some bottles he’s opened recently. Check it out…

Megan and John, so great to see you in the River City! Yall come back now! :)

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