From the department of “some how, some way, I get to drink funky-assed wines like every single day”…
Tracie P and I are so fortunate to belong to such a wonderfully collegial and unabashedly generous community of wine writers and professionals.
Knowing that we are diehard fans of Joly and his Coulée de Serrant and ever thirsty to taste older vintages, a colleague and client of mine recently set me a six-bottle vertical of the wine stretching back to 1991.
We had let the wine rest for a few weeks and decided to open a bottle last night for Mother’s Day (at 32 weeks into our pregnancy, Tracie P drinks one glass of wine a couple of times a week).
Sadly, the 2000 (opened first) was maderized… Drinkable but lacking the electricity we had hoped for.
The cork on the 1991 broke as I pulled it but after straining and decanting to remove a few crumbs that had fallen into the bottle, the wine showed beautifully, with intense freshness (after about 20 minutes of aeration). The wine had layer upon layer of ripe and dried stone fruit and zinging acidity in perfect harmony with the wine’s unctuousness. We loved it (paired with a late spring Texas basil pesto).
It was a very special and unforgettable Mother’s Day for us. :)
I spent the day offline yesterday but this morning was thrilled to discover a review of our wine list at Sotto in Los Angeles (which I curate together with Rory Harrington) by Master of Wine Tim Atkin for The Economist online magazine Intelligent Life.
“If you want to drink Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, the default choices of too many American diners,” he writes, “you will be disappointed. But if you’re interested in Greco di Tufo, Nerello Mascalese, Aglianico and Negroamaro – or prepared to give them a try – Harrington is a very enthusiastic advocate of these and other native varieties.”
Click here for the complete review.
What a thrill to know that Tim enjoyed our list! And how great to be connected to such a brilliant wine writer and authority through our virtual community!
And thanks to that very same community, I had the immense fortune to
taste drink 1958 Bartolo Mascarello on Friday. I had been invited to lunch with a group of NYC-based collectors who happen to read my wine blog (do people still read wine blogs?).
It was one of the most memorable wines I’ve ever tasted in my life. And I thank my lucky stars for the generosity of the friends who shared it with me. It was just one in a remarkable flight of wines that I’ll post about tomorrow (80 B. Mascarello, 70 Pora, 85 Rinaldi etc.). Stay tuned…
some how, some way, I get to drink funky-assed wines like every single day…