Serendipity delivered me yesterday to the doorstep of Joško Gravner. The above photo was taken in his cellar: those are his famous amphorae.
I think a lot of you are going to be surprised about what he had to say about anarchism, natural wine, and sulfur. A fascinating personage and a remarkable visit…
Posting quickly from a bar in Udine. So much to show, to tell, to share… In the meantime, a few images from lunch today at Zidarich. My goodness, probably the most interesting facilities I’ve ever visited…
Porcini frittata.
Pumpkin soup.
“Dream Team Friuli 2010” with Elda Felluga (Livio Felluga, to Bobby’s right in the center of the photo) at the Abbazia di Rosazzo in the Colli Orientali del Friuli.
Elda is an amazing, dynamic personality and I can’t wait to tell the truly epic story of her family and how they put the Colli Orientali del Friuli “on the map,” quite literally (and about the extremely special gift that Elda gave me).
What do you think about “Dream Team Friuli 2010” as the name of our group? Strappo, McDuff, Alfonso, suggestions please!
@ Terra e vini, livio felluga’s osteria. I was completely enchanted by this place and will share the reasons why when i can get online again (posting from my phone). I found my pasolini here too. In the meantime…
Simpatico Chef Andrea Gabin (left) of the famous Ristorante La Taverna posed for my camera with Chef Lachlan at last night’s obligatory dignatory dinner, regrettably a sine qua non of these government-sponsored trips, held at the picturesque Castello di Susans in Maiano (Udine).
The food was surprisingly good for a dinner where more than 200 guests were seated, including all the fat cat pols who revel in their their Rolex and 12-ply cashmere habits at such functions. That’s Chef Gabin’s EXCELLENT “white chocolate sphere and white grape sorbet” paired with Bianco Tal Luc 2007 Friuli Isonzo by Lis Neris, one of my favorite wineries here.
That’s Andrea Di Giovanni (left), director of the Friuli department for development and Francesca Ghersinich, program director for the MIB school of management, who was asked to address the large group of foreigners gathered for the event because of her command of the English language. They were very nice although completely disinterested in our group of top-flight American restaurant professionals (enogastronomic tourism does not seem to be a priority in this duly industrious region).
The one pleasant surprise of this otherwise entirely ennui-driven event was my discovery that young Friulians are wonderfully proud of the great 20th-century poet, cineaste, novelist, and essayist Pier Paolo Pasolini’s association with his native Friuli.
The cast of last night’s event certainly could have made a cameo in one of his films… I’ll let you ponder which one…
Damiano Meroi took me up into the aging attic for Picolit at his family’s winery in Buttrio (Udine). Slammed for time right now, but, man, I can’t WAIT to post about my chat with him…
Fried frico, made with aged montasio cheese fried into the form of a “nest” and filled with light, creamy yellow polenta and montasio fondue and then sprinkled with freshly grated smoked ricotta.
FRICKIN’ AMAZING!
Sweet gnocco (served during the savory menu) stuffed with plums and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
The whole crew agreed that this was the best lunch so far… truly unforgettable people, truly unforgettable food and ambience… and the wines… the Picolit is incredible!
Running on to the next two winery visits (including Radikon!) and then the gala dinner tonight… STAY TUNED!
Steve and I agreed that the best wine we tasted yesterday was the 1991 Rosso del Gnemiz by Ronco del Gnemiz, one of my favorite wineries in the world.
I was so utterly psyched to get to meet the family, taste and talk with them. That’s son Iacopo and winemakers Christian Patat and Serena Palazzolo below.
I’m looking forward to posting my notes on what Serena, Christian, and Bobby had to say about this amazing property and the wines it delivers… Stay tuned…
Shelley treated the group to a mini-vertical of Gravner last night at Borgo Comello, a wonderful trattoria in Farra d’Isonzo (Gorizia). Be sure to ask owner Claudio Comello about wines not listed.
We rarely see Gravner red wines in the U.S. and so I was entirely geeked for this: the 98 was friggin’ AMAZING, so light in body but rich in aroma (goudron and earth) and flavor (dark berry fruit).
Thanks, Shelley! You rock!
Lachlan and I went back to the Caffè del Corso on the main piazza in Cividale del Friuli yesterday between winery visits for an audience with the grand master of the spritz, owner Simone, who delivered a lecture on the nuance of Aperol vs. Campari. When time and technology permit, I’ll relate what he had to say…
That’s Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey on the bus yesterday in Friuli talking to our group about why “Sauvignon Blanc is Friuli’s secret weapon.”
Bobby’s intense wine knowledge and his all-around good vibe have made this trip an extremely interesting and fun experience (however opulent, it’s still a “march,” with EXHAUSTING 9 a.m. to 12 a.m. days visiting wineries and food destinations).
It’s been tough to get online but I’m psyched to get back home next week to Tracie P (I MISS HER SO DAMN MUCH!) and start sharing some more-detailed and in-depth info about the Friulian and Tuscan legs of this amazing trip…
Do Bianchi 