Friuli: the obligatory dignatory dinner

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Simpatico Chef Andrea Gabin (left) of the famous Ristorante La Taverna posed for my camera with Chef Lachlan at last night’s obligatory dignatory dinner, regrettably a sine qua non of these government-sponsored trips, held at the picturesque Castello di Susans in Maiano (Udine).

The food was surprisingly good for a dinner where more than 200 guests were seated, including all the fat cat pols who revel in their their Rolex and 12-ply cashmere habits at such functions. That’s Chef Gabin’s EXCELLENT “white chocolate sphere and white grape sorbet” paired with Bianco Tal Luc 2007 Friuli Isonzo by Lis Neris, one of my favorite wineries here.

That’s Andrea Di Giovanni (left), director of the Friuli department for development and Francesca Ghersinich, program director for the MIB school of management, who was asked to address the large group of foreigners gathered for the event because of her command of the English language. They were very nice although completely disinterested in our group of top-flight American restaurant professionals (enogastronomic tourism does not seem to be a priority in this duly industrious region).

The one pleasant surprise of this otherwise entirely ennui-driven event was my discovery that young Friulians are wonderfully proud of the great 20th-century poet, cineaste, novelist, and essayist Pier Paolo Pasolini’s association with his native Friuli.

The cast of last night’s event certainly could have made a cameo in one of his films… I’ll let you ponder which one…

Frico! At Trattoria “Al Parco”

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Damiano Meroi took me up into the aging attic for Picolit at his family’s winery in Buttrio (Udine). Slammed for time right now, but, man, I can’t WAIT to post about my chat with him…

Fried frico, made with aged montasio cheese fried into the form of a “nest” and filled with light, creamy yellow polenta and montasio fondue and then sprinkled with freshly grated smoked ricotta.

FRICKIN’ AMAZING!

Sweet gnocco (served during the savory menu) stuffed with plums and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon.

The whole crew agreed that this was the best lunch so far… truly unforgettable people, truly unforgettable food and ambience… and the wines… the Picolit is incredible!

Running on to the next two winery visits (including Radikon!) and then the gala dinner tonight… STAY TUNED!

But the best wine was…

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Steve and I agreed that the best wine we tasted yesterday was the 1991 Rosso del Gnemiz by Ronco del Gnemiz, one of my favorite wineries in the world.

I was so utterly psyched to get to meet the family, taste and talk with them. That’s son Iacopo and winemakers Christian Patat and Serena Palazzolo below.

I’m looking forward to posting my notes on what Serena, Christian, and Bobby had to say about this amazing property and the wines it delivers… Stay tuned…

Mini-vertical of Gravner: it’s a tough job but someone’s got to do it

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Shelley treated the group to a mini-vertical of Gravner last night at Borgo Comello, a wonderful trattoria in Farra d’Isonzo (Gorizia). Be sure to ask owner Claudio Comello about wines not listed.

We rarely see Gravner red wines in the U.S. and so I was entirely geeked for this: the 98 was friggin’ AMAZING, so light in body but rich in aroma (goudron and earth) and flavor (dark berry fruit).

Thanks, Shelley! You rock!

Zen and the art of the spritz

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Lachlan and I went back to the Caffè del Corso on the main piazza in Cividale del Friuli yesterday between winery visits for an audience with the grand master of the spritz, owner Simone, who delivered a lecture on the nuance of Aperol vs. Campari. When time and technology permit, I’ll relate what he had to say…

Get in the van: Bobby Stuckey, apotheosis of cool

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That’s Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey on the bus yesterday in Friuli talking to our group about why “Sauvignon Blanc is Friuli’s secret weapon.”

Bobby’s intense wine knowledge and his all-around good vibe have made this trip an extremely interesting and fun experience (however opulent, it’s still a “march,” with EXHAUSTING 9 a.m. to 12 a.m. days visiting wineries and food destinations).

It’s been tough to get online but I’m psyched to get back home next week to Tracie P (I MISS HER SO DAMN MUCH!) and start sharing some more-detailed and in-depth info about the Friulian and Tuscan legs of this amazing trip…

Friulian aquaculture, lunch on the island of Ravaiarina

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The team, from left, clockwise, each a taste-maker in her or his own right: Matthew Turner (head sommlier Michael Mina, San Francisco), Steve Wildy (beverage director, Vetri, Philadelphia), Brent Karlicek (wine merchant, Postino, Phoenix), Shelley Lindgren (wine director, A16, San Francisco), Bobby Stuckey (wine director, Frasca, Boulder), Jamie Garrett (sommelier, Sonnenalp, Vail), Joe Campanale (beverage director, Dell’Anima, New York), Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson (chef, Frasca, Boulder), Mario Nocifera (director of operations, Frasca, Boulder), and Lara Persello (our handler, Turismo FVG).

This morning we departed from Grado and headed toward the island of Ravaiarina.

The antipasto.

Turbot with its brodetto and white polenta.

A classic of Friulian viticulture.

The island has its own fish farm in the form of a humanmade saltwater lagoon and the chef fishes his catch with a fishing pole as needed, like this orata (Mediterranean sea bass). Ingenious…

The fishery is perfectly attuned to the island’s aquaculture and mariculture.

La Ravaiarina
tel. 0431 845 84576

To reach the island and restaurant, you take a taxi boat from Grado.

97 Vie di Romans Pinot Grigio INSANE!

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Dinner last night at the famous Ristorante all’Aquila d’Oro in Dolegna del Collio (Gorizia) began with this 1997 Vie di Romans Pinot Grigio Dessimis, which entirely blew me away with its nuance, and complexity. Pinot Grigio is so maligned and misunderstood and as much as Vie di Romans tends toward modernity (not my personal preference), there’s no denying that the winery delivers extreme elegance its bottlings. Fantastic wine…

Many excellent dishes were served last night (the stemware, dishware, silverware, and mise en place exquisite) but the course that impressed me the most was this incredible wild duck risotto. I was intrigued by the size and texture of the grain of rice and when queried, the owner revealed that it’s a Carnaroli hybrid that was developed for his family in Vercelli more than 30 years ago. Lachlan pointed out the fact that the grains do not stick together and the owner told me that no butter is used in this dish: only the stock was used to impart fat, thus bestowing a remarkable delicacy. Stunningly delicious…

Castello di Trussio dell’Aquila d’Oro
34070 Dolegna del Collio (Gorizia)
Località Ruttars 11
tel.: 0481 60545 (or 0481 61255)

Getting my spritz on in Friuli

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Bobby, Lachlan, and I got our Aperol spritz on during the ora dell’aperitivo (the aperitif hour) in downtown Cividale del Friuli yesterday.

In keeping with my credo no wine without food, no food without wine, I just had to have a few mortadella cubes, even though I knew that much food lay in my immediate future…

Ornella Venica’s favorite wine

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The inimitable Ornella Venica greeted me in the late morning with a glass of Pinot Bianco by her family’s historic winery, Venica & Venica. “Maybe not the most popular or important,” she explained, “but my personal favorite.”

For the next 5 days and nights, I’m going to be staying at the Venica & Venica estate in Dolegna del Collio (Gorizia, Friuli) with leading U.S. food and wine professionals Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson (owners of Frasca in Boulder, CO), who asked me to join them and a group of wine buyers on a tour of Friuli (sponsored by the Regione Friuli Venezia Giulia).

The main course at lunch was a delicious pork shank prepared by Ornella herself (note the kren in the foreground).

I’d never tasted the Venica Refosco. The 2008 (recently bottled) was killer… chewy and juicy.

I cannot conceal that I am very psyched to hang with Bobby (who helped Ornella clear the dishes after lunch) and Lachlan, two of the nicest dudes in the biz and undisputed Friulian insiders!

Stay tuned…