Andreotti dies & blows a last kiss from the 20th century

andreotti

Andreotti (right) with Nixon in 1973. Image via the Wiki.

“The great winemakers,” said my client Silvano “die during harvest or during Vinitaly,” Italy’s annual trade gathering in Verona where we were meeting.

He was referring to the passing of Franco Biondi Santi, whose death — at 91 years — cast a long shadow over the fair when the news broke on the first day of the event.

And so is the case with Italian politics.

Today, Italy has new Pope, a new prime minister (elected last week), a new president (also recently elected), and Giulio Andreotti, the seven-time prime minister who defined politics in Italy and reshaped the country’s political and economic legacies in the twentieth century, has died at 94 years of age.

When I traveled to Italy for the second time, to spend the 1989-90 scholastic year at the university in Padua, Andreotti was in his last term as premier.

In every way, he represented everything that my leftist Italian counterparts and friends abhorred: he was the face of Italy’s right wing, considered by many a torch-bearer of fascism, a censor (who once repudiated De Sica for the fim Umberto D.), a mafia-tainted and wily politician who was implicated in the assassination of his friend and political rival, Aldo Moro, not to mention the murder of a journalist who had become a nuisance to him.

umberto d

Above: Andreotti chastised director Vittorio De Sica for his iconic film Umberto D.

In 1993, during his mafia-association trials, authorities revealed that they had obtained a photograph of Andreotti shaking hands with mafioso Vincenzo Pernice at a private ceremony in a church in Rome. There was also an account that he had exchanged a kiss with Salvatore Riina, the boss of bosses at the time.

I’ll never forget how Professor Branca — one of my mentors and a staunch supporter of Andreotti’s Christian Democrats, a rightist in an academic world dominated by the left — finally conceded that Andreotti was as crooked as the figures with whom he’d been linked.

“Si è fatto fotografare con quel mafioso,” he said to me and my dissertation advisor, another one of his protégés. “He allowed himself to be photographed with that mafioso.”

There was no denying that Andreotti was a criminal, not even for Vittore Branca.

Italy’s current generation faces enormous challenges — economic, political, and cultural. Some would even go as far to say that the current financial crisis is one of the greatest crises Italians have faced in the history of the Italian republic (born after the second world war).

In the light of recent events, it’s as if Andreotti’s death were a congedo, a coda to his twentieth-century legacy. It’s as if he were saying, I don’t know where you’re going but don’t forget that I’m the one who got you here…

Great Aglianico not diminished by Shakespearean betrayal (it’s not D’Angelo without Donato @SottoLA)

donato dangelo

Above: Winemaker Donato D’Angelo and his wife Filena Ruppi at Vinitaly 2013.

Last summer, as Rory Harrington and I were preparing what we believe was the largest offering of Aglianico del Vulture by-the-glass in the U.S. (for our fall 2012 list at Sotto in Los Angeles where we co-curate the wine program), one of our favorite wine salespeople brought in an Aglianico del Vulture that reported “D’Angelo” on the label.

“I know the wine in the bottle,” I told him, “but I’m terribly sorry that we can’t sell it here at Sotto.”

“But you love the wine!” he protested. “Why can’t you carry it?”

“Because this wine was stolen out from under the people who made it,” I said.

And then I recounted the story of how Donato D’Angelo’s winery and brand was wrested away from him by his crooked sister-in-law and her children.

When Donato’s brother and partner in the winery died prematurely a few years ago, his clan used its majority ownership to force Donato and his wife Filena out of the picture, even though Donato was the founder and winemaker and even though he single-handedly revived the Aglianico del Vulture appellation after returning to Basilicata from Conegliano where he studied enology as a young man.

best aglianico vulture

Above: I am very pleased to share the news that we now offer Donato D’Angelo by the glass and by the bottle at Sotto.

It’s one of those sad Italian stories of a family fractured by greed, deceit, and betrayal.

The good news is that Donato and Filena have launched a new label, “Donato D’Angelo,” and the wines are now imported to the U.S.

We had to special order them for California and Sotto is the only venue on the west coast where they are available.

And I am extremely proud to share these wines with our guests.

There are many expressions of Aglianico del Vulture that I love: Carbone and Musto Carmelitano are among my favorites and have both appeared on our list at the restaurant.

But Donato’s wines achieve an unrivaled elegance and delicacy.

I first met Donato and Filena in New York in 2005 and I have followed the wines ever since. And when I tasted with them at Vinitaly this year and stuck my nose into the “Donato D’Angelo” signature wine, I was thrilled to find that unmistakable floral note that he so masterfully attains.

As far as I am concerned, no Aglianico del Vulture is “D’Angelo” unless it’s “Donato D’Angelo.”

I’m currently on paternity leave from my monthly visits to Sotto (I’ll be back again in September once we’ve settled into life with our new baby, due in July). But if you happen to dine with us, please ask Rory to pour you a taste.

Buon weekend, yall…

For the love of matzo by @mgwine

An old friend from NYC is making a documentary about the Streit’s matzo factory on the Lower East Side. He asked me to share news of the film and I’m glad to do it.

During the years I spent in the city (97-07), I watched the Jewish culture of the Lower East Side be swallowed up by the neighborhood’s yuppification. The Streit’s factory is one of the last outposts of Yiddish life there.

A wonderful Ripasso & Amarone resource

tenuta sant antonio valpolicella

Above: Winemaker Armando Castagnedi (right) of Tenuta Sant’Antonio, one of my favorite Valpolicella producers, was in Austin, Texas yesterday. That’s him tasting with top Austin sommelier Mark Sayre.

I always try to make myself available when Italian winemakers come to town and I was happy to carve out an hour of my day yesterday to taste and chat with Armando Castagnedi of Tenuta Sant’Antonio, who was in town “working the market” as they say in the wine trade.

When we met, he gave me a wonderful little book on how Ripasso is made and I wanted to share it here on the blog. So I called up the winery this morning and asked the export director Elena Verzini to send it to me in electronic format. She also sent me their Amarone book.

Click here for the Ripasso book and here for the Amarone book.

Both have great illustrations and solid English translations explaining the process behind these wines — unique in the panorama of European winemaking and among my favorites.

Click here for my Vinitaly tasting notes from my Tenuta Sant’Antonio visit.

Catching up w/ Ray Isle @islewine over lunch @passprovisions on @eatingourwords #houston #foodscene

ray isle wine writer

Yesterday, I caught up with one of my favorite wine writers, Ray Isle, in Houston for lunch.

Ray and I know each other from my NYC days and it was super fun to connect in Houston, his hometown.

Here’s my post today for the Houston Press.

Italian government allows emergency irrigation where not specified in appellation regulations

fabrizio bindocci

Above: Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino president Fabrizio Bindocci.

Back in September 2012, I reported on Brunello consortium president Fabrizio Bindocci’s quest to ease restrictions on emergency irrigation in Montalcino.

When we met and tasted in the days leading up to harvest, he told me that he had sent a request to the Italian agriculture ministry asking them to clarify a technical point. If no restriction on emergency irrigation is mentioned in appellation regulations, he inquired, can it be allowed in extreme situations (even though it’s not prescribed in the appellation regulations)?

Click here for the background.

Today, Laura Gray, author of Il Palazzone blog in Montalcino, reports that “We just received word via the Brunello Consortium that the Ministry for Agriculture published a circular (number 6858 – 19 April 2013) clarifying that irrigazione di soccorso (emergency irrigation) is permitted for DOCG, DOC and IGT wines when this is not mentioned in their disciplinaries.”

Click here for her post “An end to obligatory dry farming for Brunello.”

As Laura points out, “we have all noticed the rise in temperatures and so this new possibility of intervention is welcome news in Montalcino.”

Please TONE DOWN the perfume, ladies & gents (de la merde s’il vous plaît!)

perfume wine headache

The sky was partly cloudy yesterday, the temperature in the mid 70s, and there was gentle rain as I rolled into Houston from Austin on a early spring evening around 6 p.m.

It was a perfect storm: between the mild heat, the intense humidity, and the heavy Texas pollen, there was no way that I was going to avoid a major allergy attack.

By the time I managed to find a seat at one of my favorite Houston by-the-glass wine programs (which will remain nameless in order to protect the innocent), tears were literally rolling down both sides of my face and I had already retired one of the cloth handkerchiefs that I carry with me (these days, I make sure to have two on hand at any given moment).

It was nothing that a crisp, cool glass of Roter Veltliner, with a wonderful spearmint note, and a steaming bowl of Nova Scotia mussels couldn’t clear up in a matter of minutes.

Until…

An attractive, middle-aged woman joined a party sitting to my left, taking the seat in between me and her friends at the crowded bar.

The fragrance she was wearing was SO aggressive that it dominated even the marine aromas of the mollusks. And my lovely Roter Veltliner, with its gentle herbaceous nose, was sent adrift in a sea of chemically induced “honeysuckle.”

It was as if her fragrance were shouting SHOUTING at me.

I later discovered, feigning that my wife “might enjoy her perfume,” that the lady in question had just applied — and very generously, I may add — a lotion from Bath and Body Works, not an item “you can find on the shelves,” I was informed, but a special order item for which you must “be in the know.”

I’ve never been one to curb personal freedoms but is intense perfume or fragrance really necessary when you visit a fine dining venue?

The city of Houston still allows outdoor smoking areas in restaurants.

My thought would be to abolish the cigarette ghettos and banish the heavily perfumed to their own section outside.

As the French lover once exclaimed, after being trapped in the perfume cabinet for a week hiding from a jealous husband, de la merde s’il vous plaît!

Happy International Workers’ Day (May Day)!

fourth state avanti popoloAbove: “The Fourth Estate” by Pellizza da Volpedo (1901).

Marx is not a four-letter word at our house.

Happy International Worker’s Day, everyone!

Franciacorta consortium KNOWS how to put on an event (WARNING: contains tench pâté)

best seafood italy lombardy

Above: Tench pâté, pike crudo, and marinated sardines by my current favorite chef in Italy, Vittorio Fusari of Dispensa Pani e Vini (located in the heart of Franciacorta).

Let’s face it: Vinitaly — Italy’s annual wine trade fair in Verona — isn’t exactly known for the seamlessness with which it executes. Last year, the cellphone and wireless network were offline the entire duration of the fair (leading to utter chaos among fairgoers attempting to confirm appointments via text and email).

This year, a two-hour lunch event for Italian wine bloggers was delayed for an hour and fifteen minutes (supposedly because Daniele Cernili went overtime for his event in the same space). I was invited to the event and spent an hour chatting with my Italian blogger colleagues outside before I had to move on to my next appointment.

maurizio zanella

Above: Chef Fusari and Franciacorta consortium president and legendary bon vivant Maurizio Zanella.

But, man, when it comes to putting on a Vinitaly event, the folks from the Franciacorta Consortium sure know how to get it right.

Not only did the event “Franciacorta in Cucina: l’arte dell’abbinamento” (Franciacorta in the Kitchen: the art of pairing [food and Franciacorta]) start right on time, its entire execution was flawless, with superb food (by Vittorio Fusari), world-class waitstaff (from his restaurant), and an excellent speaker, Nicola Bonera, the consortium’s in-house sommelier (winner of Best Sommelier in Italy 2010).

arici franciacorta rose

Above: The menu included five courses and five wines. My stand out was the Arici rosé, made by my good friend Giovanni Arcari who had invited me to the event.

I get invited to SO many events like this and I reluctantly accept, knowing that they’ll probably start late, go over time, and bore the guests with a speaker who talks down to the crowd like preschoolers.

Nicola’s spiel was impressive and engaging and I was thrilled by the insights he shared regarding disgorgement and varietal composition of the wines. Did you know, for example, that Franciacorta producers must include disgorgement information on their labels? This new regulation went into place three years ago. (Does anyone remember a high profile U.S.-based Italian wine writer calling for more transparency in disgorgement info last year?)

The event was nearly seamless… except for the fact that I had to request a dump bucket, which appeared a few minutes after my petition.

I still haven’t posted my photos and notes from the two visits that Tracie P and I made to Fusari’s AMAZING restaurant in Erbusco (and I will soon).

In the meantime, the moral of the story: when invited to a Franciacorta Consortium event, ACCEPT the invitation!

Baking Benefit for West, Texas @AustinBakes @ATXGastronomist and @atxfoodblogs

west texas explosion

Please check out details for next Saturday’s Bake Sale for West, Texas.

It’s being organized by Kathryn Hutchison, president of the Austin Food Bloggers Alliance (of which I am a card-carrying member) and its “goal is to raise $15,000 for West at or before Saturday’s bake sales.”

Please find details here and please retweet and post!

From the Wiki:

On April 17, 2013, an explosion occurred at the West Fertilizer Company storage and distribution facility in WestTexas, 18 miles (29 km) north of Waco while emergency services personnel were responding to a fire at the facility. At least 15 people were killed, more than 160 were injured and more than 150 buildings were damaged or destroyed. The cause of the blast is as yet unknown.