Above: The food at Trattoria Nalin (in Mira, Venice terra firma) was as traditional as it was spectacular. One of the best meals of our trip.

As any Italian gastronaut will tell you, one of the most rewarding experiences of culinary adventure is stumbling into a great food destination by chance.

And such was the case on our last day in Italy, when Tracie P and I decided spontaneously to hop off the autostrada in the town of Mira (mainland Venice) to eat at one of the many osterie and trattorie that dot the canals like tiny fried shrimp on creamy polenta (see below).

We landed at the Trattoria Nalin, an establishment that dates back to the era of the Great War.

Mainland Venice (Venezia terra firma, towns like Mira and Dolo) were once home to the summer villas, may of them still standing, of the Venetian patrician class. Today, these sleepy villages are a less frenetically touristic yet entirely authentic alternative to lagoonal Venice (as you’ll see below).

On the day we visited Nalin, we were the only Americans there and the dining room was populated otherwise by Venetian businessmen and one older Venetian couple. The lingua franca was veneto (not Italian).

The food at Nalin was nothing short of spectacular (see below). But it was the wine list, and its concentration in Friuli in particular, that will bring us back to this amazing restaurant: verticals of Radikon, Kante, Castellada, Damijan, Keber, Miani, Borgo del Tiglio, Venica, Zidarich, and so on and so on. I was floored by the mimetic desire.

A bona fide dream come true: the best of Friulian winemaking and superbly executed traditional Venetian seafood. There was also an impressive vertical of Gaia e Rey, with prices that would make any New York collector swoon.

Here’s what we ate…

Fried tiny shrimp, schie in Venetian, always served with creamy polenta. The original “shrimp and grits”!

Note how the bac[c]alà mantecato is chunky and not creamy. Po[l]enta e bac[c]alà… perché non m’ami più… Who knows the song? See below…

Traditional Venetian bolliti, boiled seafood. What a thrilling restaurant this was for us!

Spaghetti alle vongole, a dish we only eat in Venice and Naples. As a song writer once observed, a man feel proud to give his woman what she’s longing for… (Who knows the song?)

Linguine with scampi (langoustine) “meatballs.” This dish alone was worth the airfare to Italy.

Grilled seafood is Nalin’s specialty. We paired with 2008 Sauvignon Blanc in 500ml by Kante. Such an elegant expression of the grape variety (we also tasted 2007 on this trip).

Note the radicchio verdolino in the foreground, a type of field chicory that can only be found during this time of year. We had some up in the mountains as well.

Trattoria Nalin (Mira, Venice terra firma). Recommendation: get there as fast as you can! :)

Se il mare fosse de tocio
e i monti de polenta
oh mamma che tociade,
polenta e baccalà.
Perché non m’ami più?

If the sea were made of gravy
and the mountains of polenta
oh mama, what sops!
polenta and baccalà.
Why don’t you love me anymore?

— from “La Mula de Parenzo,” traditional folksong of the Veneto and Friuli

Our two-week trip to Italy 2013 ended, dulcis in fundo, with one of the best meals of our stay: classic Venetian seafood lunch in Venice terra firma.

Tracie P and I are so blessed that our livelihood and our family life align so seamlessly and so happily.

Here’s a preview, below, of what we ate yesterday in Mira (paired with Kante 2008 Sauvignon Blanc). I’ll tell all tomorrow…

Heading back to Texas today…

Posting in a hurry again this morning as we prepare to head up to Milan on our last day here in Italy.

But I just had a share a taste of the 1983 Selvapiana Riserva poured for me at the winery’s stand yesterday at the fair.

I must have tasted 60-70 wines yesterday… but I didn’t spit this one.

So vibrant, so bright, so unbelievably fresh. Stunning wine… The best wine I’ve tasted in 2013…

We head back to Texas tomorrow. I’ll see you on the other side!

Posting in a hurry as I rush to drive back down to Verona today for my last day at the Italian wine fairs.

It’s remarkable to think about how many wines I’ve tasted over the last two days… with one more day to go.

Here are some highlights from Vinitaly and Vini Veri, in no particular order or hierarchy.

Era ‘l giorno ch’al sol si scoloraro
per la pietà del suo Fattore i rai

It was the day the sun’s ray had turned pale
with pity for the suffering of his Maker

(Rerum vulgarium fragmenta 3, translation by Mark Musa)

I couldn’t help but be reminded of these lines by Petrarch yesterday when I heard the news that Franco Biondi Santi had passed away.

(See this translation of a statement issued by the Brunello bottlers association, including notes from Consortium President Fabrizio Bindocci. It was Fabrizio’s son Alessandro who shared the news with me when I sat down to taste with him in the Tuscany pavilion at Vinitaly.)

Just like the Good Friday that Petrarch recalls in his songbook, it was as if the rays of the sun had grown pale over the wine fair yesterday, as winemakers and fair-goers whispered to one another in hushed tones, did you hear the news that Biondi Santi died?

I never met Franco Biondi Santi in person but I did interview him once by phone.

Of all the winemakers I’ve ever had the chance to interact with, he was perhaps the one most free from the chains of megalomania and most guided by intellect and passionate focus.

A few weeks after our conversation, I received a package sent from the winery. It didn’t contain samples or a vanity folio.

Instead, he had sent an autographed academic offprint of his most recent research on the DNA of his prized Brunello. I still have it, filed in my library next to signed offprints from the many professors of philology and paleography who aided me throughout my academic career.

According to media reports today, he was ninety-one years at the age of his passing.

While his involvement in the winemaking at the legendary Tenuta il Greppo was probably very limited in recent years, his legacy as the caretaker of Brunello’s origins, steadfast defender of its integrity, and producer of one of the world’s greatest wines cannot be underestimated.

Since the Brunello inquest of 2008, the appellation has been dogged by a series of regrettable and often avoidable controversies. (Most recently, one of its most high-profile producers sparred publicly with the Brunello bottlers association in an ugly display of hubris.)

With Biondi Santi’s passing, Montalcino loses an unimpeachable patriarch, whose stewardship and leadership will be missed as sorely as his impeccable style and humanity.

I took the photo above at the Biondi Santi stand yesterday in the Tuscan pavilion in Vinitaly.

Today, the shadow cast by his passing will surely dim the glitz of the trade fair as it reminds us that the Italian wine world continues to navigate and negotiate uncharted waters.

O lovers of Brunello, do no send to know for whom the bell tolls. It tolls for thee…

I am very sad to report that franco biondi santi has passed away. I just arrived at my appointment with alessandro bindocci who shared this sad news. An era has ended. More on this asap.

Thanks, again, to everyone who came out last night!

We’ll take the stage again tonight at 10 p.m.

Photos by Giovanni and Paolo.

The only winery visit I’ve made this week was to Gregoletto, one of the oldest producers of commercial Prosecco.

That’s Luigi Gregoletto, above, now in his mid-80s.

Amazing to hear him talk about a time when Prosecco was only planted where wheat and other grain wouldn’t grow (now planted on every square inch of the the lucrative vineyard real estate of Proseccoland).

Also incredible to hear him recall the 1950s when he traveled the Veneto in his little Bianchina, selling his wine door-to-door.

More… much more to come…