Sotto named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants 2011

I’ve been having a blast this year curating the wine list at Sotto, which has just been named “one of the best new restaurants of 2011” by Esquire.

Chef Steve Samson (above) and I became close friends nearly a quarter of a century ago when we were on our junior year abroad in Italy. He and Chef Zach Pollack have been doing great things in the kitchen and the Neapolitan pizza is imho one of the best if not the best in the country.

Congratulazioni ragazzi! You ROCK! :)

The best meal in Italy so far: Le Logge, Siena

Honestly, the meal, earlier in the week, at Valter Scarbolo’s Frasca in Friuli was an all-time great. But dinner last Thursday in Siena with friends Marina and Francesco at Laura Brunelli’s Osteria Le Logge was one of the best meals of my life.

I’d eaten at Le Logge many years ago but not since the Brunelli family brought chef Nico Atrigna (right) to Siena from Campania in the mid-1990s. Laura Brunelli (left), whom I’d never met, also dined with us.

Parisi Slow-Cooked Egg with Dashi Broth, Licorice, Chives.

Note the intense yellow orange of the yolk. Parisi feeds his chickens goat milk to obtain the rich flavor and color. The best egg I’ve ever had, hands down. (See Katie Parla’s excellent post on Parisi.)

Marinated Anchovies with Tomato and Spring Onion.

Ricotta Pudding with Eggplant and Thyme Cream.

Ox Tongue with Cured Cinta Senese Shoulder Served over a Spinach Orzotto. (Cinta Senese is Siena’s heirloom striped pig, smaller in size than most hogs, making for ineffably delicate salt-cured pork.)

Veal Roulades Stuffed with Escarole and Pine Nuts Served over a Raisin and Onion Ragù.

Lamb Confit with Dried Fava Bean and Swiss Chard Sauce.

What did we drink? Stay tuned…

The best polenta I’ve ever had…

Polenta with melted Montasio cheese and chanterelle mushrooms last night at Valter Scarbolo’s amazing Frasca in Friuli.

Unbelievable…

Having a lot of difficulties getting online while here in Friuli with Team Nonino… Click here to read about the rest of our meal…

Fast food and fine wine pairing, my post today for Houston Press

After I read an article in this week’s The New York Times reporting that the fast food chain Sonic has begun offering its guests wine, I was inspired to contemplate the pairing of fast food and fine wine for the Houston Press today.

I had a lot of fun with it and you might be surprised by what I came up with and the folks that appear in the post. Here it is…

Thanks for reading!

Rocking the Kids Are Alright for a good cause

The Grapes (above), Jaynes Gastropub’s entry into last night’s San Diego Battle of the Chef Bands, took third place.

The competition was fierce but we were there to promote awareness for the San Diego Center for Community Solutions whose mission is “to end relationship and sexual violence by being a catalyst for caring communities and social justice.”

Everyone had a blast…

Las Cuatro Milpas

Las Cuatro Milpas
1875 Logan Ave
(right by Chicano Park)
San Diego, California
(619) 234-4460‎

Atmosphere: Old school, friendly
Cost: Super affordable
Favorite dish: Chorizo con huevo
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

See you at Sotto in Los Angeles tonight…

If you happen to be in Los Angeles tonight, please stop by and say hi at Sotto, where I’ll be working the floor, pouring and chatting about wine.

And wherever you are, buon weekend yall!

The best Italian restaurant in the U.S. (and why I was made to love her)

When Tracie P and I talked about one last “babymoon” before the last trimester of our pregnancy (when she can’t fly anymore), she expressed her desire to dine at Frasca in Boulder. And so on Saturday, we headed for the Rocky Mountains and one of the best meals we’ve ever had.

It’s so hard to get properly sliced prosciutto in this country and I have told Tracie P about Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson’s obsession with reconditioned vintage Berkel slicers and how their beveled blades make all the difference (it’s in the diffusion of the heat, Lachlan explained to me last year when we traveld in Friuli together). When our server asked us about what we wanted to eat, the first thing out of (and into) Tracie P’s mouth was: P-R-O-S-C-I-U-T-T-O!

Co-owner Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey graciously offered to select the wines for us and it was only fitting that we start with 2010 Malvasia by Venica & Venica: Lachlan, he, and I tasted the wine together last September at the winery in Collio not long after it had been harvested. We loved the spice in this vintage of Malvasia by our good friend Giampaolo Venica.

Lachlan’s frico was off-the-charts good.

Bobby surprised us with this 09 lees-aged Sauvignon Blanc by Borgo del Tiglio, a winery I’d never tasted or seen in the U.S. I love the muscular style of Sauvignon Blanc embraced by certain Friulian producers. If ever there were an international grape variety to grow in Italy, it would be Sauvignon Blanc in Friuli, where winemakers can obtain sublime expressions of this aromatic grape. The 09 Tiglio had a crazy spearmint note on it and it was amazing to see this intense wine evolve over the course of the evening. (Note how Bobby decanted it for us.)

Lachlan’s cooking is a benchmark for Italian cuisine in the U.S. His gnocchi had that perfect balance of substance and lightness.

His ravioli were stuffed with a “deconstructed ratatouille,” in other words, all of the ingredients of the classic French dish, but prepared separately. Again, the quality of Lachlan’s pasta is a benchmark for Italian cuisine in the U.S. (Note the yellow color.)

1997 Schioppettino by Ronchi di Cialla was one of the most incredible wines we’ve drunk this year. Unbelievable minerality with this bright, fresh grapey note and under 13% alcohol. Simply incredible… It was gorgeous with Lachlan’s roast pork loin.

After dinner, Lachlan gave us a tour of the kitchen and revealed some of the secrets behind his Neapolitan pizza, served at their new pizzeria next door. Believe it or not, we actually went next door after our 3-hour dinner and ate again! I’ll post on the pizza later this week.

At certain point during our dinner, we were having so much fun that we were nearly overwhelmed by the joy of sharing food and together. Almost simultaneously, we looked into each other’s eyes and it was as if the same thought had just come to our minds at the same moment. I looked at Tracie P and told her I loved her and that it’s a miracle that we found each other: there’s no one else in the world that I could share an experience like this.

See that glimmer in her eye (as she enjoys a Sanbitter before dinner)? It makes me melt like prosciutto on her tongue…

IMHO, Frasca is the best Italian restaurant in the U.S. and you really can’t go wrong there. But it’s so much better if you go with someone you love…

There’s so much more to show and tell about our dinner in Boulder but it’ll just have to wait… Stay tuned and thanks for letting me share this special evening with you!

What to pair with Mrs. B’s Friday night lights chili?

Had fun with my post for the Houston Press today.

Turkey chili, Fritos, French’s mustard, football, and Vouvray: who would have thunk it?

Click here to read the post.

Buon weekend, yall!

Boudreaux’s Butt Paste and Boudain Shopping in Port Arthur, Texas

Here in Texas, everyone says that Boudreaux’s Butt Paste is the best. We’re only 6 months pregnant but we’ll be stocking up on butt paste pretty soon.

Crawfish boudain: if that ain’t country, I’ll kiss your ass.

Pork boudain. We also got some smoked boudain and some green onion pork sausage.

Folks around here are serious about their seasonings.

Impulse buy at checkout.

Nick’s Grocery: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.