Shout-out to Costa in Charleston. You had me at the porchetta!

One that people who don’t live in the U.S. south don’t realize is that southerners appreciate and expect great cooking more than in any other part of the U.S.

When I flew into Charleston week before last to speak at an event (for the Abruzzo consortium and the Charming Taste of Europe campaign), I went straight to my hotel, one of those corporate affairs where you’re lucky to find a bag of Doritos in the “shoppe.” Super clean and professionally managed lodging but equally anonymous and depressing.

It was around 9:30 but the hotel restaurant was still open. So, I thought, maybe maybe maybe I can get something decent to eat and a beer.

Not wanting to take any chances, I aimed low: a grilled cheese sandwich would do the trick, I thought.

To my surprise, it was probably the best grilled cheese I’ve ever had. The quality of the bread and cheese and the apple peperoncino spread were in a perfect balance of sweet and savory. What a simple but wonderful sandwich! Even the fries: no Sysco here (no offense, Sysco).

I later met the chef and his wife and found that they are proudly running an entirely independent restaurant at the otherwise anodyne hotel.

The next morning, following our seminar, I was blown away by the porchetta (above) prepared by Costa, the restaurant where we held our event.

The crust was crunchy and the pork was melt-in-your-mouth tender.

I was also impressed by the caliber of service and wine professionalism. What a great and wonderful team. Even the servers that day listened intently to my talk and had a ton of comments and questions afterward.

Costa seemed in synchronicity with the overarching quality of food and food service in Charleston. I enjoyed everywhere I ate and drank.

Shout-out and warm thanks also to the amazing Kellie Holmes who put together a wonderful group of pros for our tasting.

People on the coasts disdain us southerners. But they sure love our food when they’re here. Maybe they should take a closer look at where that food culture comes from and they should take the time out to meet and know the people that make it.

A new song for an old bromance: happy birthday Giovanni!

I wish I could say that I wrote this song for my bromance Giovanni to celebrate a milestone birthday.

But the truth is that he and I actually wrote it together, even though he doesn’t know that yet.

The last time we were together in Italy earlier this year, I heard him utter a memorable line that immediately rang to my ears like a song. I even said so at the time and he agreed that it was one of his best lines of all time.

Since I’ve been back stateside, I was inspired to write the music and melody for this track, which I really love and which I hope Giovanni will like, too

I wrote all the other lyrics, and I played all the instruments, I recorded and produced it all myself, and even sang on it.

But I owe the lyric for the chorus to Giovanni.

I think it came out pretty good and when I register the song with my publisher and BMI, Giovanni will get a credit as a songwriter — his first!

I first met Giovanni back in 2008 and by 2010 we had started hanging out regularly in Brescia where he grew up and makes wine.

Over the course of nearly 17 years, we’ve shared in epic conversations, evenings of DJ-ing for one another, unforgettable meals, and wander-spirit road trips. I’ve learned so much about wine and tasting wine through my hangs with Giovanni. He’s been such a generous friend to me and my family. He once let our family use his condo in Franciacorta wine country so that the girls could see the bunnies that lived on the golf course there. Honestly, when it comes to the last 17 years, I don’t know how I would have done it without him.

Buon compleanno amico mio, brillante e generoso…

Manchi tanto e mi spacca il cuore a pensare che non ci sarò in questi giorni per i festeggiamenti.

Aiutami a farti ritrovare, fratello mio. Ti voglio bene. I love you.

What’s the difference between an osteria and a trattoria? The answer lies in the wine.

A recent article in a high-profile food magazine got me thinking about how to define the difference between an “osteria” and a “trattoria.”

Most Italians will tell you that while a trattoria (pronounced traht-toh-REE-ah) focuses on food, with wine as an added element, the osteria (ohs-teh-REE-ah) gives equal weight to its menu and wine list and might also have an extended small plates offering.

While you visit the trattoria exclusively to dine, the osteria might offer proper dining but also a “wine bar” setting where you can snack and taste different wines by-the-glass.

The word trattoria comes from the Latin trahere meaning to drag or to pull.

Its kinship to the word trattore or tractor in English reveals its origin: the earliest trattorie were places where farmers “dragged” (“delivered”) their food to be prepared for consumption.

The lemma osteria comes from the Latin hospes meaning host (it would later denote also guest).

From personal experience, I would add that where trattorie are commonly found in cities and the countryside, osterie are located more typically in cities or in villages where there is some form of urban life. Historically, you visited the trattoria for an ante litteram “farm to table” experience. The osteria was geared for the traveler passing through town or the local reveler looking to socialize.

It’s important to remember that in today’s world, these terms have flexible meanings, often overlapping and often diverging from their historical and traditional usages.

So what’s the difference between the above and the ristorante? Blog post on deck!

The above photo is from Le Vitel Ettoné in Turin.

Thanks for being here. Happy eating!

First-ever “Westbury Wine Night,” Saturday, May 10, 4-6pm, @ Emmit’s Place.

Ever since Tracie, the girls, and I moved to Westbury in southwest Houston, we’ve lamented the fact that our neighborhood lacks a wine bar.

Wouldn’t it be awesome if our community had a family-friendly wine- and craft beer-focused venue, ideal serving pizza, where parents and kids could go to enjoy, well, wine, craft beer, and pizza. Sounds like a winning combination, doesn’t it? Burgers would be an added plus.

After we had already put on a few super family-friendly music shows and open mics at one of our favorite local dive bars, I made the following proposition to the owner, Susan Davis and her husband Carlos (both of whom I adore btw): how would you feel about me turning your joint into a family-friendly wine bar for a night?

To my surprise and delight, they said YES!

And so that’s what’s happening!

On Saturday, May 10, 4-6pm, I’ll lead a tasting and will host a retail pop up as folks enjoy house-fired pizzas.

I’m so excited about this and I hope you’ll join me. Details and tickets here. It’s already had a great response. We are all super geeked.

I know it’s going to be a great way to create community and support a beloved local business that already serves as a hub for that community. I hope to see you there!

In other news…

I had to cancel my wine dinner in LA next week (Weds., May 7) because Tracie, the girls, and I have too much going on in Houston. The dinner is still on and will be super fun regardless. I’m so sorry to miss it.

But I’m counting my too many blessings to count this morning after boarding a plane back to Houston from beautiful South Carolina.

It’s been a great week, with tastings and wonderful people in Austin, New Orleans, and Charleston.

I can’t wait to get home to Tracie and the girls. We have concerts and auditions this weekend and Tra’s parents are coming in tonight to celebrate Jane’s birthday. I’ll make steak and baked potatoes and we’ll open a good bottle of wine.

Buon weekend a tutti. Thanks for being here.

The Tell Me Bar in New Orleans filled me with hope for wine’s future.

Looking back on the last two decades of my career, it’s crazy to think about how much I owe to being in the right place at the right time.

One of those moments was hanging out with Cory Cartwright at Terroir in San Francisco in the first decade of this century. It was there that he and a band of likewise forward-looking cats were forging a new wine language.

Many industry folks will remember those years. Those pre-social media days marked the advent of “natural” wine and the explosion of the eno-blogosphere.

Cory and I met because we started reading each others’ blog. He was one of the most prolific writers of the early blogging days as he deciphered the new (old) wines that were finally reaching our shores.

When he and I reconnected yesterday in New Orleans at wonderful The Tell Me Bar, we reminisced about what a magical and exciting time it was. We were part of a burgeoning and swiftly expanding enoical dialectic. Those were the years of the new wine and the new wine language.

Hanging out at his popular spot in the city’s warehouse district, I was inspired by his business partner Uznea Bauer’s approach and interaction with their guests. Her voice is so genuine and her chops so spot on. Gone are the pretension and the one-up-personship that have plagued our industry for too long. Is this the authenticity that we have been hoping and waiting for? I believe it is. Spending time in their joint, wine felt like pure unadulterated pleasure unbound from the superciliousness of pseudo-connoisseurship. Man, it was good.

But as much as I was looking to the future last night at their bar in New Orleans, I couldn’t help but order a wine from the past. I remember drinking wines like that, so many years ago, with Tracie by my side, on my way to one of the best gigs of my life. It was the legendary night of Guillaume and the baseball bat at Terroir!

Uznea and Cory, thank you for putting together our Abruzzo event yesterday. It was off the charts!

Uznea, I quite literally couldn’t have done it without you. And it was such a treat to get to work by your side!

Cory, dude, how will I ever forget those years and how exciting it was to be part of a movement that would change the wine world forever and for better. Thank you for everything — then and now.

I’m one lucky son of a bitch. Just happened to walk into the right wine bar at just the right time — then and now.

Love you guys.

Meet me at Emmit’s Place this Sunday for great music and community. This is a family-friendly event and one that is very dear to my heart.

The whole idea was inspired by the kinda wild house parties we used to throw at our first home in Houston.

The girls, still in elementary school, were just getting started with their classic music training. We would open our home around 2 p.m. on a weekend day and I would set up a stage and sound system. The kids would do “open mic” performances for a few hours or so and then the adults would “jam out” using my backline (my amps, PA, drum kit, etc.).

Those were some legendary shindigs… and our house got a proper trashing along the way!

Earlier this year, I approached our best neighborhood dive bar, Emmit’s Place, where many members of our very musical and musician-rich community perform regularly. I asked the owners if they would let me take over one Sunday afternoon a month for an open mic featuring local musicians, including kids from the elementary and middle school music magnet programs (where our kids study as well).

The first one was such a success that it even merited a write-up in the Houston Press (our once weekly rag, now digital only).

This Sunday, from 2-6pm, I’ll be returning to Emmit’s Place in southwest Houston where I will be emceeing the open mic and then performing a set with my band, The Bio Dynamic Band featuring Katie White, during the last hour.

This is a family-friendly event, with comfort food (burgers, fries, nachos) and mocktails for the kids (the kids LOVE the mocktails).

I hope you can join me for an afternoon of great music. Some of our community’s leading adult players (some of the best in Texas, btw) have been known to sit in!

Thanks for supporting local music, local musicians, and local independent businesses!

And btw, happy Italian Liberation Day!

My favorite restaurant in Naples? You’ll find it at the gates of hell! Yes, literally, the gates of hell.

This let me crave, since near your grove the road
To hell lies open, and the dark abode
Which Acheron surrounds, th’ innavigable flood;
Conduct me thro’ the regions void of light,
And lead me longing to my father’s sight.
For him, a thousand dangers I have sought,
And, rushing where the thickest Grecians fought,
Safe on my back the sacred burthen brought.

Virgil, Aeneid, Book 6

That’s Aeneas, the founder of Rome, speaking to the Sybil at the gates of the underworld along the banks of Lake Avernus in Pozzuoli (Naples), above.

Those familiar with the Western Canon will immediately recognize the scene: book six of Aeneas’ story is one of the most powerful works of ancient literature, emulated and imitated by generations of European writers, including Dante, who modeled his own journey through hell on that of the Roman hero.

Can you imagine my utter thrill when I realized my favorite restaurant in Naples is just a three-minute walk from the site of Aeneas’ descent? I practically fainted I was so excited!

Thanks to friends in the wine trade, I discovered the magical Akademia Cucina in the hamlet of Lucrino, a village in Pozzuoli.

This was, hands down, the best dining experience of my 2024. Man, this place has it all: location, vibe, ridiculously good seafood, great wine list, and the perfect tone for a hedonistic community that likes to dine on the late side. I LOVED this place.

Here are some photos of what I ate and where I swam.

And wow, the nearby hotel where my buddies suggested I stay, Albergo delle Rose, was just my speed in terms of pricing and convenience.

There’s an urban light rail train that stops in Lucrino: a 45-minute ride to Naples proper (perfect) and connections to all kinds of little towns and gorgeous sea views; wonderful beach access across the road; a ferry from nearby Pozzuoli takes you to Ischia. It was a dream for me.

But the oneiric quality of my sojourn was mostly shaped by this locus, this “place” where Aeneas first made landfall and the Greeks first colonized southern Italy. History and literature came to life before me. It was a wonderful experience that I highly recommend for your summer tour.

Not just tariffs: the sinking dollar is threatening a broad swath of the wine industry.

Anecdotally, I’m hearing that many E.U. producers are choosing to skip major wine events in the U.S. this year.

A medium-sized importer in the U.S. recently sent me the following note:

    The next big threat is the weakening of the dollar vs. the Euro by 13% since January. If it keeps going this way for another six months at the speed it has been devaluing, then it won’t be the tariffs that put us out of business but the weak dollar. When I started importing in 2009 it was $1.53 to €1 and it has been $1.10 or lower for many years now. If it goes back up to even $1.35, I am going to have to significantly raise all of my prices and sales will slowly be strangled.

When you consider that the wine industry was already facing menacing headwinds before the tariffs and the sinking dollar, it becomes clear that the current crisis is existential for many operators. With no end to the tariffs in sight and growing economic uncertainty, the U.S. wine community is going to look starkly different by the end of this year.

In related news, the U.S. Wine Trade Alliance is soliciting comments on how tariffs and the value of the dollar are affecting small businesses:

    We need your immediate feedback on how the current trade environment is affecting your business. As the 10% tariff on imported wines continues, and with the real possibility of escalations to 20% or more in the coming months, your voice is critical in helping us convey the stakes to policymakers.

    Please take a moment to respond to the following questions:

    How is the current 10% tariff impacting your business?
    (Consider effects on hiring, investment, expansion plans, sales volumes, pricing, customer relationships, etc.)

    If the 10% tariff remains in place long term, what will the ongoing impact be on your operations?
    (Feel free to include the currency devaluation.)

    In 2.5 months, if EU–U.S. trade negotiations go poorly and tariffs rise to 20% or more, how would your business be affected?
    (We’re especially interested in how this would impact your viability, supplier relationships, and workforce.)

    Responses can be e-mailed to ESarnor@akingump.com. You may copy me as well. We are compiling member input to share with trade officials and congressional staff in the coming days. If you are able, a response on company letter head would be helpful.

    Please send responses by Monday, April 28th. Your feedback is essential to making the case that these tariffs are doing more harm than good to American businesses like yours.

Music and wine: Houston 4/27 (music), Austin 4/28, New Orleans 4/29, Charleston 5/1, Los Angeles 5/7.

Tariffs, schmariffs, it is the season again…

Please join me this Sunday 4/27 as we rock out Emmit’s Place in southwest Houston where we live. We’ll be doing open mic for kids and adults from 2-4; at 4 local middle schooler jazz outfit Rhytmix will perform (children of some of the top musicians in Houston, some of whom have been known to sit it!); and then at 5 my band, The Bio Dynamic Band featuring Katie White, will do a set.

This is a family-friendly event with comfort food and mocktails, adult beverages for the grownups… something for everyone.

Then on Monday 4/28, I’ll be presenting an Abruzzo seminar, tasting, and lunch in Austin. Click here for details and registration.

On Tuesday 4/29, I’ll be presenting an Abruzzo lunch at The Tell Me Bar in New Orleans, my old friend Cory’s super cool wine bar. I am so geeked about this. It’s free to trade. Please message me to RSVP. So geeked for this!

On Thursday 5/1, I’ll be presenting another Abruzzo seminar, tasting, and lunch in Charleston. Click here for details and registration.

Finally, on Wednesday 5/7, I’m heading back to DTLA for a wine dinner at Rossoblu, my old stomping grounds. I love these events and we run a retail pop-up for guests who would like to purchase the wines after tasting them. Click here for details and registration.

Thank you for the support and solidarity. People in our industry are struggling, with many just hanging on a thread. Please check out this excellent article on the trade blog Seven Fifty: leading importers of family-grown wines from Europe are teetering on an existential tightrope. As one importer said, “we live six months to a year ahead — that’s our present. So the complete lack of ability to plan is crushing us.”

Better get used to drinking Arneis from Napa and grating “Parmesan” from Wisconsin. Nothing wrong with those products. But that’s what we are looking at six months down the road at this point. #ItalianWineStrong #thankyouforyoursupport

Happy Pesach, happy Easter! The holidays’ allegories of displacement and suffering seem very real this season…

Happy sixth day of Peseach/Passover (yes, it’s ongoing) and happy Easter this Sunday!

One of the things that strikes me about this year’s Passover-Easter season is that the holidays’ allegories of displacement and suffering seem very real this year.

A month ago, I met Kevin, a young man in his 20s. He lives in Houston with his blind mother and has a work visa that allows them — legally — to stay in the U.S.

A few days before I met him, he had been arrested in an immigration raid. Despite his 100 percent legal status, he was put behind bars and was slated for deportation.

Immigration courts don’t work like civil and criminal courts, I learned. For Kevin to be released and (rightly) fight his deportation, he had to pay bail. In the case of immigration courts, the entire amount — not a percentage — needs to be paid upfront.

An immigrant aid group was able to raise the money within the 48-hour time limit. Had they not, he would have been swept up into the byzantine U.S. immigration system and ultimately sent back to his home country. Thank G-d he is still here today to provide for his mother’s care.

On the occasion when I met him and his mother (at an organizing meeting), all the volunteers and immigrants present were asked to share what their “super power” would be if they had one. When it came to his mother, she said: I wish I could help all people who need it.

People — yes, people, human beings! — in our country are living the same nightmare of our ancestors in ancient Egypt. What were the Hebrews of that time if not migrant workers?

And how not to view Kevin as a Christ-like figure? He was so innocent, his intentions so pure: he just wants to provide a good life for his mother and himself. Christ had three days to rise from the dead. Kevin had just 48 hours to raise literally life-saving money.

This Passover and Easter season, we are forgetting politics and remembering that we are all human — all too human.

Happy Passover, happy Easter. G-d bless America. G-d bless Kevin and his family. G-d bless us all.