Security cam photo

Just had to post this photo, taken by an airport security agent using my camera on Sunday morning in Munich, Germany before I boarded for Washington, D.C.

When I went through security, he very courteously asked me if he could take a photo, using my camera. Yes, of course, I said. And so he proceeded to remove the camera from its pouch, its cap from the lens, and then he pointed and shot. The above photo is the result of his effort.

Isn’t it interesting to look at? Isn’t it fascinating to contemplate the semiotic implications of the composition and those posed by a gaze that cares only to see through the signifier but not to see the signified?

Needless to say, I was waived on through the check point with flying colors.

Congrats Mark Sayre, Erin and Nat!

You head outta town for a few weeks and all KINDS of stuff is bound to happen while you’re gone!

Congrats are due to our friend Mark Sayre (above), sommelier at one of Austin’s top dining desintations, Trio. He was recently named one of the top 7 sommeliers in the country by Wine & Spirits magazine. Nice going, bro!

And a heartfelt mazel tov to beloved Austin wine professionals Erin McReynolds and Nat Davis who were married yesterday. Tracie P and I wish you a lifetime of bliss and happiness!

Beauty (and ugly) in Italy

Above: A wasp feasts on newly picked Ribolla at Venica & Venica.

A quick post today, on this autumnal Monday back at my desk in Austin, comprised of photos from my trip, some of the most beautiful things I saw through my lens while in Italy. It was an incredible journey, replete with felicitous confluences, some serendipitous and delightfully unexpected, others grounded in epistemlogic contemplation and convex self-reflection.

Above: Pancetta offered to weary travelers, also at Venica.

In the days that follow, I’ll begin posting in-depth accounts of my conversations and tastings with winemakers and restaurateurs in Tuscany, the Veneto, and Friuli. I am so grateful for all the comments, emails, Twitter mentions, and Facebook notes encouraging me and sharing insights into what I photographed, smelled, tasted, drank, and masticated over the course of the nearly three-week trip. And I am especially thankful for the incredible hospitality and generosity of spirit of my (literally) myriad hosts and guides.

Above: A view from one of the dining rooms at Trattoria al Parco in Buttrio (Udine).

Immense and extreme beauty is offered to the willful traveler of the Italic peninsula: from her generous landscape to her innate and intrinsic humanity (both historical and topical), Italy continues to inspire me (and hopefully you) by revealing some of the mystery and joy of life through her topographic, aesthetic, and sensual pleasures.

Above: A view from the Abbazia di Rosazzo in the Colli Orientali del Fiuli.

While I thoroughly enjoyed her bountiful intellectual and sensorial gifts, I was however acutely aware of the seemingly insurmountable societal and cultural issues and turmoil faced by the inhabitants (Italian and otherwise) of this profoundly gorgeous land.

Above: Hay for Chianina cows near Pienza, Tuscany.

Whether it’s Berlusconi patently using one of his media outlets (in this case, Il Giornale, a top national daily) to sling mud at his rival Fini (now embroiled in a sticky familiar real-estate scandal) or the impending expulsion of Roma (following the highly controversial and contested model employed by Sarkozy), Italy and her peoples find themselves in circumstances eerily however distantly reminiscent of the “era between the two wars.” When I commented on the recent changing of the guard in the political regime of the region where she and her family make wine, one winemaker observed wryly but not inronically, “we were better off with the fascists in power than the [newly instated] separatists.”

Above: Sunset in Montalcino (Tuscany), viewed from the estate of Il Palazzone.

Perhaps it’s this precarious balance of salt and sweet that makes Italy always taste so great and greatly on our tongues. Thanks for reading…

The Ponca 10 bid Friuli adieu

The Ponca 10* visited cult prosciuttificio D’Osvaldo yesterday in Cormòns: Matthew Turner (head sommlier, Michael Mina, San Francisco), Brent Karlicek (wine merchant, Postino, Phoenix), Jamie Garrett (sommelier, Sonnenalp, Vail), Bobby Stuckey (wine director, Frasca, Boulder), Steve Wildy (beverage director, Vetri, Philadelphia), Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson (chef, Frasca, Boulder), Lara Persello (our handler, Turismo FVG), Shelley Lindgren (wine director, A16, San Francisco), Mario Nocifera (director of operations, Frasca, Boulder), Joe Campanale (beverage director, Dell’Anima, New York).

The group gave handler Lara a Hermès bracelet to thank her for her superb job herding cats.

The crudo at the Regione Friuli good-bye discothèque party was extreme.

Bobby (left) and Lachlan (right) posed on the red carpet with Colli Orientali del Friuli consortium president Pierluigi Comelli and his lovely wife.

Do Bianchi dug the musetto.

Kristian Keber’s Edi Keber Collio ROCKED!

A stroll through Trieste on a Saturday night was magical, electric.

THANK YOU FRIULI FOR YOUR WONDERFUL HOSPITALITY AND THE GOOD VIBRATIONS!

*ponca, Friulian dialect, the unique sandy marl (flysch), Eocene seabed, typical of the Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli appellations.

Old-school frico at La Subida

Dinner last night at one of Italy’s greatest culinary destinations, La Subida in Cormons (Gorizia), included this old-school frico. That’s owner Joško Sirk.

Today’s my last here in Friuli. It’s been an amazing trip and I have many tales to tell of my adventures culinary and otherwise in Tuscany, the Veneto, and Friuli. But now it’s time to head back to my wife, my life, and my love, Tracie P…

Thanks so much to everyone for keeping up with the blog and following along. The comments and emails mean a lot to me and I’m so glad that folks are enjoying my posts. There will be more to come next week once I catch my breath…

Gravner’s amphorae

Serendipity delivered me yesterday to the doorstep of Joško Gravner. The above photo was taken in his cellar: those are his famous amphorae.

I think a lot of you are going to be surprised about what he had to say about anarchism, natural wine, and sulfur. A fascinating personage and a remarkable visit…

With Elda Felluga at the Abbazia di Rosazzo

“Dream Team Friuli 2010” with Elda Felluga (Livio Felluga, to Bobby’s right in the center of the photo) at the Abbazia di Rosazzo in the Colli Orientali del Friuli.

Elda is an amazing, dynamic personality and I can’t wait to tell the truly epic story of her family and how they put the Colli Orientali del Friuli “on the map,” quite literally (and about the extremely special gift that Elda gave me).

What do you think about “Dream Team Friuli 2010” as the name of our group? Strappo, McDuff, Alfonso, suggestions please!

Pumpkin gnocchi

@ Terra e vini, livio felluga’s osteria. I was completely enchanted by this place and will share the reasons why when i can get online again (posting from my phone). I found my pasolini here too. In the meantime…

Friuli: the obligatory dignatory dinner

Simpatico Chef Andrea Gabin (left) of the famous Ristorante La Taverna posed for my camera with Chef Lachlan at last night’s obligatory dignatory dinner, regrettably a sine qua non of these government-sponsored trips, held at the picturesque Castello di Susans in Maiano (Udine).

The food was surprisingly good for a dinner where more than 200 guests were seated, including all the fat cat pols who revel in their their Rolex and 12-ply cashmere habits at such functions. That’s Chef Gabin’s EXCELLENT “white chocolate sphere and white grape sorbet” paired with Bianco Tal Luc 2007 Friuli Isonzo by Lis Neris, one of my favorite wineries here.

That’s Andrea Di Giovanni (left), director of the Friuli department for development and Francesca Ghersinich, program director for the MIB school of management, who was asked to address the large group of foreigners gathered for the event because of her command of the English language. They were very nice although completely disinterested in our group of top-flight American restaurant professionals (enogastronomic tourism does not seem to be a priority in this duly industrious region).

The one pleasant surprise of this otherwise entirely ennui-driven event was my discovery that young Friulians are wonderfully proud of the great 20th-century poet, cineaste, novelist, and essayist Pier Paolo Pasolini’s association with his native Friuli.

The cast of last night’s event certainly could have made a cameo in one of his films… I’ll let you ponder which one…