Luigi Tecce’s macerated Maman Bianco, the first white to emerge from the iconic grower

Over the last 10 years, Taurasi grower Luigi Tecce has firmly established himself as the leading voice of Campania winemaking.

A “Triple A” farmer whose compelling red wines have captivated Italy’s wine cognoscenti, he proudly lists “what I don’t put in my wine” on his back labels, making him a bright light of transparency and integrity among Italian vignaioli.

Two years ago he released his first white wine, a macerated blend of Greco (45%), Fiano (25%), Coda di Volpe (25%), and Moscato (5%).

It’s dedicated to the winemaker’s mother and his friend Vinicio Capossela, the celebrated Italian singer-songwriter who designed one of Tecce’s labels.

While the reds are available in certain (fortunate) markets in the U.S., the white hasn’t made it here yet. But a friend bravely smuggled it into Texas and poured it for me last week in Houston.

It’s inevitable that tasters will measure its character against Tecce’s reds, which have become benchmarks not only for Taurasi and Campania. While this early bottling probably won’t be remembered among his best entries, it was thoroughly delicious, with gorgeous acidity buoyed by lithe texture. Stone fruit and dried white fruit flavors were plentiful in the mouth and the wine was swiftly consumed by my “wine people” companions and me — a sign of how much we all loved it.

If it’s any indication of what’s to come from his cellar, I’ll definitely be making space in mine to accommodate what will surely become an iconic white from Irpinia.

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