In oenography, synaesthesia — “the use of metaphors in which terms relating to one kind of sense-impression are used to describe sense-impressions of other kinds; the production of synæsthetic effect in writing or an instance of this” (Oxford English Dictionary) — is owed to our human inability to describe wine.
Without spending too much time on the epistemological implications of oenophilia, it’s worth noting that when we describe wine we don’t actually describe the wine. In fact, we describe what it tastes like.
And there are those among us would-be wine writers who rise above the facile simile and reach for the metaphor.
When my friend Bubba and I shared a bottle of Roero Arneis by Brovia last night, it wasn’t like drinking electricity in a glass. It was electricity in the glass.
The wine was electric. It was alive… ALIVE!
You don’t see a lot of the Brovia Arneis in this country but looking back on my visit with Giacinto Brovia a few years ago, I remember that we did indeed taste it then.
There’s very little of it in Texas. But my friend and client Jeff at Vino Vino in Austin was able to snag some.
There’s so much great Arneis out there. It’s one of those grapes that’s pretty hard to screw up.
But this one is the one…
My score on a scale of 1-100? Run don’t walk…