1999 Sassella Rocce Rosse by Ar.Pe.Pe. FANTASTICO!

1999 sassella rocce rosse ar pe pe

On Saturday night, Tracie P and I had the great fortune to taste some older vintages of Ar.Pe.Pe., including this 1999 Sassella Rocce Rosse, thanks to a generous distributor rep who dropped off the wines for us after a trade tasting.

Ar.Pe.Pe. has generated a lot of buzz in the U.S. over the last year and a half after making a landing and a big splash in New York, where it’s been a favorite among buyers and bloggers.

But Ar.Pe.Pe. has been around for a long time. It’s one of the oldest continuously operating wineries in the Valtellina.

When the “real wine” pioneer Mario Soldati wrote about the estate in the early 1970s, he notes that Pellizzati family had been bottling there since 1860 and that Arturo Pellizzati (son of the winemaker at the time, Guido) represented the fourth generation of family’s winemaking legacy.

The current winery is named after Arturo and an amalgam of his children’s surnames: Ar[turo] Pe[llizzati] Pe[rego].

Arturo also appears in Sheldon Wasserman’s landmark Italy’s Noble Red Wines (1985), receiving good, if not outstanding, marks from the author (who openly states his preference for Langa and Novarese expressions of Nebbiolo).

Today, the wines are still made in large chestnut casks, the same way Arturo made them.

grumello buon consiglio

Where the great wines of Langa tend toward earthiness, the best Valtellina — in my experience — are defined by nuanced spice.

It was such a thrill to get to taste older vintages of some of Ar.Pe.Pe.’s top wines.

And while we also loved the 2001 Grumello Buon Consiglio, it was the 1999 Sassella Rocce Rosse that contained the “unbearable lightness” that I look for in the greatest wines of the world.

Delicate in its aroma and nuanced in its flavor, the fourteen-year-old wine had that ineffable balance of power and elegance, with notes of faded cinnamon that played against wild berry.

Its fruit was bright and its acidity very much alive: this wine, I imagine, has many more wonderful years ahead of it in its evolution.

What a wine!

The wines aren’t here in Texas yet but they’re on the way (and will likely be here by the fall).

It’s another example of how trade forces and a new national awareness among Texas wine professionals are opening up our market.

I can’t go into details of how the wines will get here (because it’s not my place to reveal such information) but I can say that young Italian winemakers continue to search for alternatives to the monolithic channels of the past.

The Texas wine culture is only going to be better for it and I can’t wait to get my hands on some more of this superb “mountain Nebbiolo.”

9 thoughts on “1999 Sassella Rocce Rosse by Ar.Pe.Pe. FANTASTICO!

  1. Daniele
    I’m not sure I understand what you are saying. I have been to both wineries and think they are both outstanding. But honestly, without the devotion of Casimiro Maule over the years, and all the people he has mentored,the wines of Valtellina would be a memory.

    The Ar.Pe.Pe. winery was once larger and it is now making a long overdue comeback, but that in no way should diminish the ongoing accomplishments of their neighbor.

  2. Alfonso I mean that the wine from ArPePe have more fineness then the other.
    I’m not an expert of Valtellina, but I tasted a lot of wines from different winery, and I think ArPePe is one of my favorite.
    I enjoy very much some wines from Nino Negri, expecially Inferno Maser, but I prefer that one with less muscles, mineral, fineness and longevity.

  3. thanks for the clarification, Daniele…I wold love nothing more than to see the wines of Valtellina enjoy more success and I wish the producers good fortune in finding it. It is really one of the more interesting areas for winegrowing in Italy.


  4. Pingback: Scusate vo di Fretta

  5. Pingback: Italian Good News Arpepe: taste and tradition from the artisans winemakers of Valtellina » Italian Good News

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s