@GiampaoloVenica this wine makes us very happy #CollioTime #Bromance

venica pinot grigio

Above: Just look at the beautiful copper color of that wine! Wine’s visual beauty is one of the great pleasures of oenophilia.

These days, my days are INSANE. With only three or four weeks left in our pregnancy, Tracie P needs as much down time as possible and I’m picking up as much slack as possible.

I’m up every morning by 4:30 a.m. and in bed every night by 10 p.m.

And with more clients than ever and two Texas clients who are opening new restaurants in the fall, every moment not devoted to shopping, cooking, cleaning, changing a diaper, or playing with our sweet Georgia P is devoted to writing, writing, writing — creating media for our clients.

So last night, after I closed up shop at 6 p.m. (the conclusion of a workday that began at 5 a.m.), fed Georgia P the dinner I’d already prepared in the late afternoon (whole wheat quesadillas stuffed with refried beans and sautéed zucchine deglazed in white wine), cleaned her up and gave her her bath and got her ready for bed, tidied up her toys and made dinner (spaghetti with zucchine cooked with garlic, chili flakes, and white wine), a glass of friend Giampolo Venica’s Pinot Grigio tasted mighty good.

giampaolo venica

Above: Giampaolo visited with us here in Austin earlier this year when he came to town to pour his wines. I’m so thrilled that Venica is available again in Texas.

His wines are so beautiful, so focused and so fresh, so true to their appellation but so uniquely his… And his gorgeous ramato (copper-colored) Pinot Grigio has a gently note of salinity that reminds me of the Eocene seabed subsoils of his family’s estate, where apple orchards lie adjacent to vineyards, kissed by the Adriatic breeze and sheltered by the magnificent Alps.

But what makes this wine even more special to me is how much I admire Giampaolo, his convictions and his ethos, his love of literature and his social conscience. Even though we only see each other a few times a year (mostly at wine-related events), we share each other’s lives through social media and email. And for a brief moment yesterday evening, Giampaolo came into our home and shared his support through a refreshing glass of his delicious Pinot Grigio.

Thanks, Giampaolo, for the wine and for the friendship…

Solo nella tradizione è il mio amore.

Best meals in Italy, Franciacorta dreaming of the Dispensa Pani e Vini

coppa cotta

Above: Coppa cotta, “cooked coppa” at the Dispensa Pane e Vini in Franciacorta.

Whenever I lead a guided wine tasting, I make a point of asking the guests to consider what I believe is one of the most important elements in wine appreciation: how do you feel the day after you drink the wine?

I’m not talking about being hung over. We all know about the physical and emotional fallout of excessive alcohol consumption.

No, I’m talking about the role that wine plays in digestion.

coregone white fish

Above: Fried coregone and coregone “ice cream,” made from Coregonus lavaretus, European white fish from Lake Iseo (Franciacorta).

We spend so much time talking about how wine tastes, the rarity and prestige of certain bottles, etc.

But we devote too little time — in my view — in reflecting on wine’s value as a nutrient and digestive.

milanese

Above: The “Milanese” antipasto is a panino stuffed with a mini cotoletta alla milanese. A schmear of potato purée is applied to the bun before the dish is plated.

Sadly, I believe that the western world’s fetishization of food creates a disconnect between the food we consume and our bodies (excuse the paronomasia).

Ask anyone who’s ever worked at one of our country’s temples to the fetishization of fine dining, Per Se: they’ll tell you that guests, especially elderly diners, often regurgitate at the dinner table.

pasta fagioli

Above: Pasta e fagioli. The health-enhancing properties of this dish were truly remarkable. I speak from personal experience.

And so with wine, so with the foods our family consumes. One of the most important ways we gauge the quality of meal is how we feel the next day.

On our last trip to Italy, I was so thrilled about taking Tracie P and Georgia P to Vittorio Fusari’s Dispensa Pani e Vini in Franciacorta that we booked a hotel down the road just so we could eat there at least twice before we headed to our final destination in the Veneto.

pasta asparagus

Above: Spaghetti with green beans. One of the things that was so remarkable about our visits was how Vittorio created dishes especially for Georgia P. She loved this.

Vittorio’s technique is astonishing and his work is renowned throughout Europe. But it’s his maniacal attention to the materia prima that makes his cooking a game-changer.

Although Tracie P has been avoided raw fish and uncooked cured meats during our pregnancy, she consumed both at the Dispensa (and we discussed our concern and our desire with Vittorio beforehand; he assured us that the provenance of the salmon and the prosciutto was impeccable).

As much as I enjoyed this meal — our first on our recent trip to Italy and one of the best — I was reminded of how good it was the next day when I visited the bathroom (and I apologize for the level of detail here but if you’ve read this far, I know you’re with me on this).

This was one of two meals authored by Vittorio during our day-and-a-half stay in Franciacorta. I’ll post about the others tomorrow.

Parzen family expansion update mommy & baby p 2013 doing great

pregnant belly

Yesterday, we had our 35-week sonogram and our doctor is really pleased with how things are going. Mommy and baby, I am thrilled to report, are both doing well.

Technically, we have five weeks to go, although everyone (including mommy) believes that Baby P 2013 will arrive early (partly because second births generally come early; “your body already knows what to do,” said the doctor yesterday).

For a few moments during yesterday’s sonogram, you could see the baby’s face and her hair. The most amazing feeling in the world to see our new baby girl! :)

baby face sonogram

@FineWineGeek notes for our EPIC Nebbiolo tasting @IlBuco_AV

produttori barbaresco label

Above: One of the most beautiful wines at our lunch was the 1970 Barbaresco Pora by Produttori del Barbaresco.

Tom Petty once asked Roy Orbinson if he ever wrote down his music as he was songwriting.

The answer was no.

“If I don’t remember it,” he responded, “no one else will.”

Sometimes, I feel the same way about wine tasting: note-taking can be cumbersome when you’re tasting and enjoying fine wine. And after all, when the wines are truly great, you won’t forget them.

barbaresco pora

Above: I was expecting the 70 Pora to be light in body but it was fresh and vibrant. What a wine! I’ll never forget it.

But the science and art of tasting notes are vital to the wine world we inhabit. And few can rival the ability, insight, experience, and acumen of Ken Vastola.

Please check out his superb notes from our recent (mostly) Nebbiolo tasting and luncheon at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria in NYC.

His site is one of my number-one resources for vintage and label notes and he is a rabbi in my wine world.

Stunning Friulian Chardonnay & decadent Valdostana @TonyVallone

best friuli chardonnay

There are a handful of white wines from Friuli that I like to call my “guilty pleasure” bottles: high-end, international-styled expressions of bacca bianca viticulture from some of the region’s most manicured and pedigreed estates.

I’m talking about labels like Vie de Romans, Jermann, Miani… These producers often deliver bottles that step outside the parameters of strictly traditional Friulian winemaking, leaning toward a richer and more opulent style.

After dinner on Friday night at Tony’s in Houston (where I curate the restaurant group’s media), I’m adding a new winemaker to that list: Vignai da Duline.

I have known and followed these wines and I love their more traditional labels.

But this gently maloed Chardonnay blew me away with its depth and stunning balance of minerality and fruit.

It was so thrilling that our party of six ordered a second bottle.

The wine’s not cheap (importer David of AI Selections told me this morning that srp is $50) but worth every penny.

asian italian fusion

The wine was an ideal pairing for the Laughing Bird Shrimp topped with red-mullet (Sicilian) bottarga, one of the delightful “fusion” dishes that my friend Tony has been featuring on his tasting menu.

best valdostana recipe

But the dish I can’t stop thinking about three days later was the Valdostana, stuffed with Fontina and Prosciutto di San Daniele. The veal melted in my mouth…

I love the way that Tony uses the Italian culinary canon as a paradigm. He constricts his chef de cuisine, the extraordinarily talented Grant Gordon, within Italian tradition. But then he hands him the keys to a Maserati loaded with the best materia prima available.

This dish was transcendent… Paired with a Monsecco 2006 Gattinara, a new addition to the Rosenthal book…

Wagoneers at the Continental Club #honktonking #atx

wagoneers continental club

Sugaroo, the agency that represents my music in film and television, also represents the alt-country americana legends the Wagoneers, who are now in Sunday-evening residence at the Continental Club here in Austin (one of our favorite honkytonks).

Sugaroo’s founder/owner and my very old and dear friend, Michael, was in Texas this weekend for meetings and he and I caught the show last night.

It was pretty amazing: they played their first record (1988, a landmark release that launched alt-country in the U.S.) in its entirety, in sequence, and then played their new as-of-yet unreleased record in its entirety. What a show!

Michael told me that he hopes to see the new disk out sometime in 2014.

In the meantime, here’s their site.

Jeremiah was a bullfrog!

jeremiah bullfrog

Georgia P and I had a fun Saturday afternoon together while mommy and Baby P 2013 rested.

jeremiah bullfrog 2

how Cajuns fry

cajun frying oil

As soon as I typed the title for this post, I realized it was an amphiboly.

It could be construed as how Cajuns fry their food or how does one fry a Cajun.

Tracie P sent me to the store last week to get some peanut oil to fry up this year’s first batch of fried green tomatoes.

I couldn’t resist snapping a photo of this jug of Cajun Injector Cottonseed “Premium” Frying Oil.

Food shopping in Texas is as commercialized and homogenized as anywhere else in the U.S. But “regional” brands still appear in mainstream supermarkets.

Another one that gets a lot of mileage at our house is Boudreaux’s Butt Paste.

Upcoming dinners with @TonyVallone @CiaoBelloHou & @DonkeyAndGoat @SottoLA

barolo villero brovia

Above: I paid less than $100 “on premise” for this 2003 Barolo Villero by Brovia at a restaurant in Houston. Unbelievable.

The Houston food and wine scene continues to amaze me. In part because of how disappointing, uninformed, and naive it can be at times. In part because of the unbridled talent and the extreme value that you find there in the most unlikely places.

A few weeks ago, I had a superb bottle of wine from one of my favorite producers, the 2003 Barolo Villero by Brovia, one of the few growers who released their crus from the 2003 vintage. The wine was simply stunning.

But the most incredible thing about the experience was that I paid less than retail for it. Even more more unbelievable was how difficult it was to navigate the restaurant’s tablet-based wine list, out of date and poorly organized.

I wrote about the frustrating but rewarding experience today for the Houston Press.

There are some Houston restaurateurs and wine professionals who never seem to leave the Houston bubble and they sadly remain unaware of what’s going on in the world beyond.

And then there’s my friend and client Tony.

tony vallone houston

Above: Tony Vallone is one of the most dynamic Italian restaurateurs in the country imho. I’m so proud to call him my friend and client.

In the words of one Houston food critic, he’s the dude who “virtually defined” fine dining in Houston over the last four decades (his first Tony’s opened in 1965).

I’ve enjoyed some amazing meals in his restaurants and I’m excited to share the news that he and I will be speaking at a Sicilian Regional Cuisine dinner on June 26 at his Tony’s casual restaurant Ciao Bello.

Tony’s half Sicilian and half Neapolitan and he travels to Italy every year (he just got back from a trip to Chicago for the Fancy Food festival, Sicily, and Paris).

I’ve spoken about Italian wine at a number of dinners in Tony’s restaurants but we’ve never presented together. I couldn’t be more thrilled.

tracey brandt donkey goat

Above: Tracey Brandt of Donkey & Goat recently came to Austin to present her family’s wines.

Another event I’d like to bring to your attention is a wine dinner at Sotto in Los Angeles where I co-curate the wine list.

On June 25, Tracey Brandt (above) of the Donkey & Goat winery will be presenting her family’s wines.

I’m super bummed that I won’t be able to be there (I’m grounded until Baby P 2013 gets here in mid-July).

But I highly recommend the dinner and the wines to you. Donkey & Goat is one of the Parzen family’s official wines: we drink them regularly at home, mamma Judy (my mom) drinks them in La Jolla (the rosé is her favorite), and Rev. B (my father-in-law) loves him some Donkey & Goat Helluva Pinot Noir.

I’m very proud that we feature the wines at Sotto.

That’s all the news that fits today… Have a great weekend, yall! Buon weekend!

every American town should have a Frank @HotDogsColdBeer

chicago dog

Above: The Chicago dog at Frank in Austin, Texas.

Thanksgiving turkey? Apple pie? Burger and fries?

Is there any dish that embodies the American culinary spirit more than the hot dog?

Even the French love hot dogs…

polish sausage

Above: Polish sausage with the works.

Yesterday, I finally made it to Frank, Austin’s local temple to hot dog and hipsterdom.

If ever there were an asylum run by the inmates, it would be Frank.

I got there mid-afternoon and every seat at the bar was occupied by handlebar mustaches, pierced nostrils, tattoo sleeves, and Pabst Blue Ribbon beer. The scene was a mirror reflection, minus the beer cans, of the bar staff.

ice tea ball jar

Above: Drinks are served in ball jars.

I loved Frank. I loved its Austinite originality. I loved its unabashed embrace of americana. I loved its affordability and approachability. AND Frank is both family- and hipster-friendly.

And who doesn’t like a hot dog?

To not love the hot dog would just be flat-out, downright unAmerican!

Happy summer, yall