A Frittata and a Glass of Wine

Tracie P’s superb frittata inspired my post today for the Houston Press. We paired it late Saturday night with a bottle of 2008 Fixin by Mongeard-Mugneret, which I had picked up — literally — for a song for $26 in San Antonio (where I spoke at a wine dinner earlier in the evening).

I’ve posted these passages — one probably known already to you and one that may surprise and delight you (I hope) — over at the Houston Press as well. But I just had to post them here, too.

From “An Omelette and a Glass of Wine”

“If it were true that wine and eggs are bad partners, then a good many dishes, and in particular, such sauces as mayonnaise, Hollandaise and Béarnaise would have to be banished form meals designed round a good bottle, and that would surely be absurd. But we are not in any case considering the great occasion menu but the almost primitive and elemental meal evoked by the words: ‘Let’s just have an omelette and a glass of wine.'”

Elizabeth David, T.B. Layton’s Besides, 1959


“Of all French dishes, the omelette is perhaps, the most thoroughly representative. The French omelette is known far and wide, by reputation, at all events, and various are the parodies of the great French dish that are to be met with in the different corners of the world. In some places, omelettes are served up in a liquid melting mass; in other places they take the form of solid custard-like composition; elsewhere they take a leathery shape, and are altogether as unpalatable as they are unlike the real thing. An omelette, moreover, is a dish which most Frenchmen, whether he cooks or not, declare that they are adepts [sic] at concocting. The French poet, the painter, the dramatist, the statesman, the aristocrat — all will tell you that had it pleased Providence to place them in the classes from which, as a rule, cooks spring, they would have won renown by the excellence of their omelettes alone. No saying is more true than that which declares every French man to be a born cook; and the foremost dish on the execution of which he prides himself, is the omelette.”

—Charles Dickens (ed.), Household Words, 1882

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