Waiter, waiter: I’ll have what Eric’s having…

Above: Last night, Tracie B and I opened Puffeney’s 2006 Trousseau, one of those “original” wines that we couldn’t stop talking about. Photos by Tracie B.

The wines from the Jura first came to my attention at one of my favorite restaurants in the world, L’Utopie in Québec City when my band Nous Non Plus was on tour there a few years back. Thirty-something owner and sommelier Frédéric Gauthier has an amazing palate and his list has always delivered something unusual and exciting to my table.

So when I read Eric’s preview of his column on the “Unusually Good” wines from the Jura at the end of a long workday for both me and Tracie B, I decided to cork a bottle of Puffeney 2006 Arbois Trousseau that we had picked up here in town at The Austin Wine Merchant.

At a talk on modern vs. traditional wines he gave in New York a number of years ago, Angelo Gaja discussed what he called “original” wines: wines that “surprise” you, he said.

The Trousseau, like nearly everything I’ve tasted from the Jura, was one of those “original” wines: it’s one of those wines that could only be made in that place, by those people, using the grapes, the techniques, and the terroir that belong uniquely to them. It was light in body but with some confident tannin, with berry fruit and brilliant acidity. Tracie B and I couldn’t stop talking about it: one of those wines that surprises you and speaks of a little mountainous utopia in France along the Swiss border where they make truly wonderful wines.

We loved it and I also highly recommend Eric’s column today in the times. Wine Digger digs these wines, too, as does McDuff. And here’s a little background on Puffeney’s methods.

Get it at The Austin Wine Merchant. Enjoy!

4 thoughts on “Waiter, waiter: I’ll have what Eric’s having…

  1. In my honest opinion if Mister Gaja think that “original” wines are the wines that have the power to surprise, I think that Gaja wines are not original because have not, for me, the power to surprise me. They are déja vu, predictable and almost boring wines. For me “original” thrilling wines are the wines from Giuseppe Rinaldi, Giuseppe Mascarello, Bartolo Mascarello, Cavallotto, Borgogno, Bruno Giacosa, Brovia, in Barolo, and the Brunello’s of Case Base,Lisini,Biondi Santi, Poggio di Sotto, Giulio Salvioni, in Montalcino.
    This is my point of view…

  2. @Franco I have to say that I agree with you about Gaja’s wines. He did speak that day of “original” wines but his wines don’t really taste the place where they were made nor of the grape indicated by the appellation. At least in some cases, he has rightly declassified his wines since they don’t taste like the appellations where they’re made. I love all the wineries you’ve included in your shortlist of “original” producers. Salvioni’s 03 Brunello was one of the best I tasted from that difficult vintage, btw. Happy birthday! Now stop blogging and go drink something great!

  3. Hey Jeremy,
    Just catching up on my blog reading after a little vacation/blogcation and noticed the shout-out, so thanks. I engaged in more than one conversation while in SF (you can probably guess where) about the pleasures and surprises of Jura wine, with Puffeney and Overnoy/Houillon almost always topping the lists of those involved in the dialogue. It seems that Houillon’s reds have now reached the level of severe allocation, as they’re apparently quite sought after in Japan. Hopefully Puffeney’s will remain somewhat more widely available.

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