David Schachter and I had our weekly powwow at Mozza last night, where we also tasted with general manager David Rosoff (above) — top sommelier and Italian wine guy in Los Angeles in my book. Man, I wish I could get my facial hair to look as good as his. He’s also a rocking drummer.
Today finds me simply too busy to keep posting my Brunello debate series and I promise to pick it up again on Friday.
In the meantime, check out this post by winemaker and wine blogger Craig Camp, who sets the record straight with James “Giacomino” Suckling. The 1997 and 2000 vintages in Piedmont (and Tuscany) are among the most overrated and misunderstood in this country (I mean, come on: is there such thing as a 100-point vintage?). Suckling should be commended, however, for keeping prices of 1999 and 2001 down. And Piedmont 1998? Drinking great right now.
Schachter brought a bottle of Il Cantante white, impossible to find in this country, and I have to say, one of the most impressive Sicilian whites I’ve ever tasted (made from Carricante, Minnella, Grecanico, and Moscato). Don’t let the rockstar label fool you: this is serious stuff.
I also liked Lyle Fass’ report “U.S. to bailout wine retailers.” Note his take on the 2000 Barolo and 2003 Brunello (both warm, atypical vintages).
We also drank a Conterno Cicala 1996 from Schachter’s cellar. I tasted this wine twice on release — once in NYC and later at the winery. I have to say that it did not show as well as I would have expected and the wood still dominated the wine unfortunately. This wine was touted by some — and they know who they are — to be one of the greatest releases of the decade. I’ve always enjoyed Aldo Conterno’s wines but at the end of the day, I think that traditionalism invariably trumps modernism, however muted that modernism may be (call me a passéist). But this post is about others’ rants, not mine! More on the Brunello debate on Friday…
Do Bianchi 
“I mean, come on: is there such thing as a 100-point vintage?”
Bravo, Jeremy. There’s way too much attention paid to vintage by the mainstream wine press as it is. The “concept” of a 100-point year is just absurd. Or should I call it over-the-top, in keeping with Suckling’s preferences?
In my day-to-day experience on the sales floor, by the way, the hype for ’97 in both Tuscany and Piedmont seems to have outlived the fading memories of the ’00 brouhaha in Piedmont.
Thanks for the shout. That’s some facial hair on that sommelier. I could not even attempt that I am so bad with the razor.
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Thank you for the sensible critique. Me & my neighbour were preparing to do some research about that. We got a good book on that matter from our local library and most books where not as influensive as your information. I am very glad to see such information which I was searching for a long time.
“Il cantante” (the singer) is Mick Hucknall (Simply Red), now he lives most of the year here in Sicily. I don’t drink wine, but I’m happy he chose “my” beautiful island!