From the department of “everyone should have my job”…

Posting in a hurry from the road today but just had to share these images from my first meal at Vallone’s, my friend and client Tony’s new restaurant in Houston. It opened on Sunday…

Lobster rolls… These were off the charts…

Onion rings… Tony and his partners, chef Grant Gordon and GM Scott Sulma, are having fun with the steakhouse canon… The restaurant — with its 55-day aged steaks, etc. — is definitely for heavy-hitters but the menu is also wonderfully playful and creative…

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The very first vineyard that our older daughter Georgia P ever visited was one of Luca Ferraro’s top growing sites, where he sources the fruit for his Bele Casel Prosecco Colfòndo.

Knowing that Luca is an organic farmer meant a lot to me and Tracie P: it was Georgia P’s first visit to the countryside and we were acutely aware that by harvest time (we visited in September 2012, photo above), many growers have been spraying their vineyards with all kinds of chemicals.

I am thrilled to share the news that Luca’s Colfòndo is FINALLY available in the U.S. and I have made it the center piece of my Do Bianchi Wine Club Christmas Offering.

Click here to read more about the wines and for order details.

Happy holidays, everyone! And thanks for all your support in 2013!

Above: A scene from the festival of San Zopito, the patron saint of Loreto Aprutino in Pescara province, Abruzzo (image via Vincepal’s Flickr [Creative Commons License]).

It’s hard to digest the news that continues to arrive in the wake of the blizzard that destroyed 2,700 hectares of vineyard in Abruzzo last week.

As my friend and colleague Michael Horne pointed out on my Facebook yesterday, “that’s 6,700 acres, or 10.5 square miles, of damaged vines.”

Below I’ve translated an excerpt from a letter that was sent by Abruzzo grape grower and winemaker Fausto Albanesi (owner of Torre dei Beati) to the editors of L’Espresso wine blog (L’Espresso is a major glossy weekly magazine).

It was reposted by a number of Italian wine bloggers (and I owe thanks here to my client Silvano Brescianini of the Barone Pizzini group who brought it to my attention).

The letter by Albanesi, who grows grapes in Loreto Aprutino township (the same where Francesco Valentini lost up to 50 percent of his legendary Trebbiano vineyards), is as moving as the editors’ allusion to a famous nineteenth-century Italian poem.

The poem is “To Silvia,” by the Italian philosopher and poet Giacomo Leopardi.

It’s a poem so well known to Italian school children that the editors didn’t even need to quote it directly to evoke the poignant lines of the canto below (please read this Wiki entry to learn about the meaning and legacy of this famous work).

Oh Nature, Nature
why do you not give now
what you promised then? Why
do you so deceive your children?

(Here’s a link to a complete translation of the poem.)

Anyone who has ever driven through Abruzzo on a fall day before harvest knows that its hillside towns are surrounded by vineyards and olive groves as far as the eye can see. It’s one of the areas of Italy that still looks the way people remember it from the 1970s. In many ways, there is still a de facto share-cropping system in place (see the letter below). The effect of this natural disaster on the local economy is hard to wrap my mind around.

And so today the small grape-growing families of the Abruzzo countryside are in our hearts and in our prayers…

My translation of an excerpt from Albanesi’s letter follows.

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Above: Many vineyards in Abruzzo are pergola-trained and as a result, the weight of the snow on the canopies caused them to collapse. Strong winds also caused major damage in vineyards and olive groves (image via Intravino via NewsAbruzzo).

According to reports published over the weekend in Italy, snowfall and blizzard conditions destroyed up to 2,700 hectares of vineyards in Abruzzo last week.

The storm — dubbed “Attila” — delivered freezing temperatures and 100-kph winds from the Artic, dumping up to 2 feet of snow on the central Italian region.

Above: Pescocostanzo in L’Aquila province on Wednesday of last week (image via MeteoWeb).

In his post today for DIVINI, the Corriere della Sera wine blog, journalist Luciano Ferraro published a short interview with leading Abruzzo grape grower and winemaker Francesco Valentini, whose winery, which dates back to the 1600s, is widely considered one of the best in Italy today.

“In the provinces of Pescara, Chieti, and Teramo,” says Valentini, “there was a first wave of bad weather two weeks ago, with 500 millimeters of rainfall in just a few short hours. Then, last Tuesday, there was a blizzard, with gusts up to 100 kilometers per hour. It wreaked havoc in our vineyards. We’re still assessing the damage but I believe [Abbruzzo] had up 2,700 hectares [under vine] that were leveled.”

On the Valentini estate, which covers 250 hectares, of which 75 are planted to vine, “half of the vines were damaged, unfortunately in the best zones for both Trebbiano and Montepulciano. Precious vines that were at least a half-century old. At this point, we’ll have to survey each plant to determine which can be saved and which will be thrown away. [The storm brought] tremendous damage. And many other wine and olive oil producers are in the same situation.”

Valentini, who rarely speaks to the media, and the regional office of Coldiretti (Italy’s farmer and grape grower association) have publicly called on Italian government officials to classify the storm as a natural disaster and to declare a state of emergency.

Bad weather continues to affect central and southern Italy. Heavy rains have followed the blizzard over the weekend, causing major flooding in urban areas and further damage to vineyards and olive groves. Up to 1,500 persons were evacuated and schools were closed in Pescara according to reports today.

It costs a little more in the Texas market than elsewhere (just a few bucks, really) but it’s worth every penny: the ARPEPE 2010 Rosso di Valtellina.

It’s my number-one Thanksgiving wine this year because 1) it has a wonderful balance of earthiness and fruit; 2) its classic spice note (think cinnamon) will work beautifully with the Thanksgiving trimmings; 3) it will please everyone from “I only drink Natural wine, thank you” to “did your husband bring any of that vino of his for Thanksgiving?”; and 4) it’s one of the new wave of super groovy Italian wines that are finally making their way from the coasts to Texas (thanks to a new generation of distributors here).

Of the seven Thanksgiving wines that I recommended today over at the Houston Press (including an Australian wine, believe it or not), it’s the most expensive, weighing in at around $40 in our market. But it deserves an extra special shout-out for having made it here. The Texas wine scene is a better place for it…

Special thanks to Neil Turner of Serendipity Wines for believing in this winery, getting the wines to Texas, and for letting me taste samples before they were available for retail sale.

Above: “You could hardly say ‘I was speech writer’ for Bobby Kennedy,” says cousin Marty (in the photo, right), “but I did work on his [presidential] campaign” and travel with him. Marty, who was just beginning his career as a political activist in the late 1960s, was with Kennedy in Indianapolis the night that Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was killed. As a young campaign staffer, he did “advance work” and wrote the opening lines of Kennedy’s stump speeches.

It’s such a trip for me to live in Texas.

On one hand, it’s here that I’ve found the fulfillment of my life’s path. It’s where I found Tracie P and where we’ve started a family together. It’s also a place where I’ve met so many wonderful people, folks who know how to love life and to love one another, above and beyond political or ideological differences.

It’s also a place where conservative political and ideological attitudes run hot and taut. There are many people here — there’s no way around it — whose ire for our president and his policies knows no bound. As much as “decency” is core to Texans’ characteristic politeness, political dialog here often trumps respect for others and their beliefs.

An excellent op-ed in last Sunday’s New York Times looked back at the hateful attitudes that prevailed in Dallas fifty years ago when President John F. Kennedy was shot there.

While Dallas has changed radically since then, there’s no denying that today many Texans bar no holds when expressing their vitriol for our current president. Sadly, such spitefulness echoes what was happening in Dallas in 1963 when JFK was killed.

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Oltrepò Pavese is one of Italy’s most underappreciated, undervalued, and underestimated appellations.

Last night, Houston wine professional Nathan Smith, who runs the wine program at one of the city’s most popular pizza and “enoteca” spots, Dolce Vita, turned me on to this vineyard-designated Riesling by Paolo Verdi (the son of Bruno).

Honestly, I didn’t know that he made a Riesling: I’ve tasted the reds, of course, and they are benchmarks for the area.

But I was surprised when Nathan pulled out this Riesling: it just had so much depth and nuance, and as it warmed up, its classic varietal notes began to emerge together with super-focused, lip-smacking minerality.

Fantastic wine… Thank you, Nathan! I’m really looking forward to following along as you revamp the wine list there.

Above: Frank Cornelissen — considered by many to be one of the world’s most radical Natural winemakers — visited Austin yesterday (image via On the Wine Trail in Italy).

Work obligations (and hungry mouths to feed) prevented me from attending Etna winemaker Frank Cornelissen’s trade tasting yesterday at Bufalina, one of our favorite restaurants in Austin, Texas.

I was disappointed to miss him but thrilled to see that he came to Texas, where the wine scene is finally beginning to attract marquee names from the indy wine world like Frank (just a few weeks ago Yves Cuilleron was here; for both growers, it was a first time in Texas).

Here’s Alfonso’s excellent post on the tasting…

Buona lettura, yall!