Gaia Gaja’s cowgirl boots (and my first Alba truffles of the season)

Yesterday found me back in Houston where I had lunch with my friend and client Tony and Gaia Gaja.

To mark the occasion of her Houston, Texas visit, Gaia donned the cowgirl boots she had picked up on her previous visit (above). As the saying goes, you can take a girl out of the country but you can’t take the country out of the girl. After all, she does come from a town where they didn’t have running water until 1964.

As you can imagine, Tony pulled out all the stops for the luncheon: I’ve posted my complete notes on the meal and the wines over at his site here.

I wasn’t surprised by the Gaja 2007 Barbaresco: however strange (by virtue of the fact that there was no winter to speak of), the 2007 vintage was generous to Barbaresco and everything I’ve tasted so far has been great to phenomenal (remember when Tracie P and I tasted 2007 Asili and Santo Stefano with Bruno Giacosa?).

But it was Gaia’s family’s 2008 Barbaresco that really blew me away. In a challenging vintage, Gaja was blessed with very juicy, well ripened fruit. Green harvesting and southern exposure of their vineyards delivered mature grapes, said Gaja, and allowed them to pick before inclement weather arrived. The floral notes on the wine were fantastic and although still very young in its evolution, it had that zinging acidity and powerful tannin that makes Barbaresco such a unique appellation imho and one of my favorite wines in the world.

My favorite dish of the meal was the branzino and poached potato tartar topped with caviar and paired with the 2009 Gaia & Rey Chardonnay (a guilty pleasure, I must admit).

Click here for all of my notes, including the 2005 Sperss, and images of the dishes…

Thanks again, Tony and Gaia!

Another oaky, buttery Chardonnay (a negative review)

This summer, when I asked “Should wine bloggers write about wines they don’t like?” the subsequent dialog and debate led to a lot of soul searching at casa Parzen.

In one of the threads that grew in the wake of a follow-up post, Eric the Red — the Solomon of wine writing and blogging in my view — wrote that:

    As for saying negative things, reporters, critics and bloggers cannot ignore them. Yes, in my wine panel columns we list our 10 favorite wines. But I always address problems that we found in the wines, even if I don’t go through them bottle by bottle. And I generally do mention particular bottles if they are well known and highly regarded.

I took his guidance to heart: yesterday, over at the Houston Press, I posted about a “well known and highly regarded” wine that made me gag (literally).

Of course, I couldn’t and didn’t say gag but I’ve taken the leap into negativity.

Snowcone, a wine blogger based in Houston, commented:

    Confession: I hate oaked Chardonnay. There are one or two that occasionally strike my fancy, but I look for unoaked wherever I go. (There’s a great one from Knapp Winery–in the FLX [Finger Lakes], natch!) My husband loves the stick o’butter/2×4 variety, and it’s the only place where our wine palates diverge.

Click here for the post. Thanks for reading!

Italian nuclear family dinner

My friend Stefano Spigariol and I have known each other for more than 20 years, since I first came to Italy to study Italian philology in Padua where he studied Latin. Like many of my friends from university days, he works in the publishing industry in Milan, as a publicist for a top scholastic publishing house.

He’s one of my best friends in Italy and our confabulatio always ranges from the erudite to the rock ‘n’ roll, from the sacred to the profane.

He, his wife Anna (a lawyer), and daughter Matilde live in a one-bedroom apartment near the center of Milan.

Last night, they had me over for dinner: cheese and charcuterie, bread and taralli, roast chicken legs, Veneto-style braised cabbage, and a caponata, paired with a bottle of 2009 Sordo Dolcetto — an old-school expression of the grape variety that Stefano picked up for less than Euro 10 at his local wine shop.

I can’t think of a better meal for my last night in Italy…

Thanks again, Anna, Matilde, and Stefano… I love you guys!

Picking the last grapes in Brescia #ewbc

And so it’s time to say good-bye to Brescia… The European Wine Bloggers Conference is over and it’s time to begin the journey homeward to Tracie P and the place where I belong…

The tradition of urban vineyards continues here in Brescia and as it turns out, yesterday the bresciani picked the last grapes of the vintage, Invernenga, a local variety, white, in the vineyards that face the Castello di Brescia atop the city.

Laura and Giovanni sent me these photos.

I love my friend Giovanni

It’s been a long and rewarding trip to Italy but I’m glad it’s coming to end. I’ve been away from home and Tracie P for way too long and I can’t wait to get home.

As much fun as I’ve had here in Brescia for the European Wine Bloggers Conference, the nearly unbearable homesickness and lonesomeness of being on the road have been assuaged by my amazing friend, Giovanni Arcari — winemaker, champion of the small grape grower, activist, blogger, and a force of life that (happily) cannot be stopped.

Few know that it’s thanks in great part to Giovanni that the conference was hosted here in Brescia, his hometown. It was Giovanni who approached vice president of Brescia’s council for city projects, the delightful Laura Castelletti (who also heads the city’s opposition party, a lapsed socialist), and convinced her that this would be a great opportunity for Brescia and the wines of the province.

But I think that Giovanni brought the conference here just so that he and I could spend a few precious evenings together, listening to music, talking about wine, and laughing as hard as men can laugh when men drink good wine together.

The other night Giovanni and I shared a bottle of one of my favorite Franciacorta producers, Gatti, over dinner at a wonderful restaurant called Novecento (filled with 20th-century nostalgia) next to the Teatro Grande in Brescia.

I sure am glad to be heading home the day after tomorrow… but, man, I’m going to miss Giovanni…

“Robert Parker has sold out.”—George Taber #ewbc

Above, from left: George Taber, Wei Ran Chen, Gregory dal Piaz, and Franco Ziliani.

There’ a lot of grooving stuff happening here in Brescia at the European Wine Bloggers Conference but yesterday’s show stopper was lion-hearted author George Taber’s keynote address where he told the group of 216 wine bloggers: “In my view, the wine writing establishment — Robert Parker and so forth — has sold out.”

He was answering a question posed by Evan Dawson (below, left, with my fellow Texas Katie Myers) who had asked George to address ways that a journalist can distance himself from his subject and maintain her/his objectivity.

“By and large,” George said in his talk on storytelling this morning, “the Robert Parkers and Wine Spectators do nothing else but cheerlead.”

Wow… no regrets, coyote… there it is, right there, for all to see… and the declaration was made by an authority on wine and wine writing whose gravitas would be challenged by few…

Organizers Ryan and Gabriella Opaz and Robert McIntosh (above, from left) have done a super job here in Brescia. There’s seamless, high-speed WiFi throughout the Museum, Church, and Monastery of Santa Giulia where the conference is being held (in Italy! unbelievable!), things are running nearly ontime (also remarkable for Italy), and there’s a great energy and sense of collegiality that makes everyone feel welcomed and happy to be here.

More later… Stay tuned…

The Cross of Desiderius #ewbc

One of the most incredible, truly moving things I saw today was the Cross of Desiderius, the cross of the last Longobard king Desiderius, 8th century CE, in the Museum of the Monastery of Santa Giulia in Brescia where the European Wine Bloggers Conference is being held.

As you can see in the photo (even with my poor skill as photographer), the piece seems to glow. A truly magical artefact that mesmerized me.

The European Wine Bloggers Conference #ewbc

What a thrill to be here at the European Wine Bloggers Conference in Brescia! So amazing to meet so many wonderful folks whom I’ve know only virtually…

I snapped the above photo this morning when I took part in a panel in which each member “defended” one of the media that go into wine blogging. My assignment was “the written word.”

Pane per i miei denti!

This year’s theme is “story telling” and tomorrow I’ll be part of a round table on “stories that haven’t been told.”

As I type this I’m sitting next to Wink Lorch (!) and listening to George Taber give the keynote speech. Fantastico!

Stay tuned…