It seems like just yesterday that the Times was singing the praises of the Sacramento restaurant scene.

But in the editors’ roundup of top destinations, they omitted two Sacramento standbys: Waterboy, the all-time classic and leader, where the capital’s food cognoscenti have dined for decades; and Allora, a relatively new fine-dining concept where the husband-and-wife team have set a new bar for Italian cookery in the city.

During my trip there last week, I ate at both and both were nothing short of spectacular.

Waterboy doesn’t need any help from me in getting the word out. It’s been on gastronomes’ radar for a generation, one of the early interpreters of the California farm-to-fork movement.

Over at my new favorite Californian Italian, Allora, the brilliant co-owner Elizabeth-Rose Mandalou has put together a compact and precise progressive list, like the Colombo Pelaverga above. (It’s important to note that not all of the small- and mid-sized hipster distributors deliver to Sacramento. So, Elizabeth’s work is even more impressive given the challenges of limited deliveries and added costs.)

She also has what may be the deepest selection of Franciacorta in the U.S. Who can say no to a glass of Franciacorta and caviar and freshly shucked oyster service?

I loved how the cheese course masqueraded as dessert.

Everything about this place was warm, welcoming, entertaining, surprising and familiar at the same time. And the service, including the cork presented on a tray (yes!), was impeccable.

Thank you again, Elizabeth and team! I cannot wait to get back.

And for the record, here’s the chicken pot pie I had for lunch at Waterboy, below. Enough said!