That’s Chris Broomell above, co-owner Vesper Vineyards in north county San Diego, one of the most compelling winemakers working in the state imho.
Writing on the fly I am this long holiday weekend in San Diego where I’ve been tasting with winemakers like Chris for the Slow Wine Guide 2020 (and playing some guitar).
I’m always impressed by the way he talks about his wines and the nascent revolution in San Diego viticulture. The fruit has always been here, he points out. But the hegemonic winemaking style never reflected — never translated — the quality that San Diego can produce.
But the wine I can’t stop thinking about is the J. Brix
Santa Barbara Calaveras County Chardonnay I tasted this week.
I had tasted Emily and Jody Towe’s wines on many occasions over the years and have always enjoyed them immensely (I had them on my list at the now defunct Sotto in Los Angeles where I ran the wine program for nearly eight years).
But this wine really takes it over the top in terms of the depth and nuance. It opens with primary Chardonnay flavors (tropical fruit and banana) but then unfolds its layers-upon-layers of savory herbs, minerality, and ripe and dried stone fruit.
I can’t wait to taste Tracie on this wine. She is going to flip out (I’m planning smuggle a couple of bottles back to Texas where they are still illegal).
Another wine that surprised me with its depth was this Syrah by Chris’ wife and partner Alysha Stehly, another winemaker to watch imho. I’ll be visiting and tasting with her tomorrow before I head back to Houston.
I’ve only been here a few days but have tasted some truly spectacular wines — all of which land with affordable pricing btw.
But the biggest treat of my sojourn was getting to sit in with the magical Dave Gleason (below).
He’s a true virtuoso of the Telecaster. I’m nowhere in his league but he generously lets me sit in with his band when I’m in town.
We played blues and country yesterday out at the Grand Ole BBQ Flinn Springs in El Cajon (where, btw, the Texas-style brisket was completely legit, melt-in-your-mouth liquid delicious).
Dave is a Doug Sahm of our generation, a musical polymath and one of the sweetest people you could ever meet.
Tonight I’ll be playing the whole evening with one of his bands, the Born Fighters, at Beaumont’s in La Jolla (where I grew up). All the stars from the La Jolla music scene are coming out for this one.
If you’re in town, we’ll take the stage around 9 and play until midnight or so. Beaumont’s is pretty rowdy and things can get a little out of hand there. So come ready to rock!