It may compromise my professional reputation to reveal that this extraordinary wine was paired with ketchup- and mustard-slathered Hebrew Nationals last night. But after the Parzen children had achieved a familial milestone yesterday, they had been promised “hot dog and fries” night. And a paternal promise is an inabrogable pledge.

Capolino Perlingieri wines from Sannio (Campania) first came to my attention six or so years ago in California where a couple of wine lists still bear my signature. The Falanghina was, hands down, one of the most compelling expressions of that grape variety available in the market at the time.

Today, it’s thrilling to see the wines finally land in Texas and exhilarating to see the gusto employed by local wine barkers in hawking them.

Weighing in at gorgeously balanced 12 percent alcohol, the 2013 Sannio Fiano Nembo — yes, 2013 — crooned like a Parthenopean soprano in my glass, with notes of melon and apple, a hint of gentle citrus, and a Freudian red thread of minerality that seems to run through all of this young wineries bottlings.

A warm volcanic thanks is owed to importer Oliver McCrum for bringing this wine to my home and adoptive states. Check out his excellent, thoughtful profile of the estate and its wines here.

In other news…

You may have noticed that things are little bit quiet on the Italic peninsula this week. That’s because Italians celebrated Liberation Day on Wednesday of this week and on Tuesday of next week they will observe International Workers’ Day. Between the two national holidays (and with many wine professionals exhausted by a flurry of trade fairs last week), many offices are closed for the septimal.

The former marks the day Italians cast off the abominable yoke of Fascism and Nazism. The latter was established by the historic Socialist and Communists parties of the world to champion the proletariat and a vision of world piece.

Mais où sont les neiges d’antan?