Slow Wine mourns the loss of one its most beloved figures this week.

Paolo Camozzi, 39 years old, passed away unexpectedly last week from a sudden illness. He was the guide’s deputy editor and its leading expert on the wines of Oltrepò Pavese. He was also a professor at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences, where he had previously completed his own studies.

“We called him the ‘Big Soul,'” said Slow Wine Guide editor-in-chief Giancarlo Gariglio in an interview with Gambero Rosso — a reference to his two meters in height and his warm personality. “The nickname was inspired by his work in the field. These two words reflect how much we admired him and what a great friend he was.”

He also served as a project manager at the Adolescere foundation, a youth outreach association in Voghera.

He is survived by his partner Annalisa Sivieri and their three children.

“Tonight I’ll drink a Pinot Noir in your memory,” wrote his colleague Valentina Vercelli, another top editor for the Slow Wine Guide.

Sit tibi terra levis Paule.

(Image via the Slow Wine Facebook.)

It’s the thing I enjoy most about my career in wine: sharing the joy of our work with like-minded souls.

Next week, my client Amistà will be hosting me at their Country House agriturismo Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday (April 10-12) in the heart of the Nizza DOCG.

The pad lies right on the Bricco di Nizza, one of the best crus in the appellation. Check it out here. It’s badass!

I’ll just be chilling and hanging out, pouring wine for anyone who wants to stop by and chat and taste. If you’re on your way to Langhe before the fair, you’ll literally drive right by. Stop and see me for a glass or a bite. There will even be a guitar hanging around.

On Sunday and Monday of next week (April 14-15), you’ll find me at Vinitaly, the mega trade fair in Verona.

Ping me and let’s taste. I’ll definitely be spending a lot of time in the Abruzzo pavilion on both days. Hit me up!

But then wait, there’s more!

Dallas, Monday, April 29: I’ll be tasting (although not pouring) at Gambero Rosso.

Houston, Tuesday, Apri 30: I’ll be leading an Abruzzo seminar in my adoptive hometown. I’ve been developing this presentation since I first did it at Texsom last summer. I think people will find it compelling.

Atlanta, Thursday, May 2: I’ll be hosting/leading an Abruzzo dinner in one of my favorite cites in the U.S. Can’t wait to get back there.

Los Angeles, Wednesday, May 15: I’ll be leading a Sicilian wine dinner at Rossoblu with my friend (since junior year abroad) Chef Steve Samson.

There are other dates on the horizon and I’ll share them when they come into focus.

In the meantime, I hope I get to connect with you in coming months. Thank you, as always, for the support.

See you on the other side next week!

One of the most compelling and thought-provoking visits of my year so far was my stop at Emidio Pepe in northern Abruzzo in February.

Chiara Pepe, the current generation of this legendary wine family, is now vineyard manager and winemaker. Her embrace of her family’s literally epic viticultural legacy would be a subject for a book. Those are no small shoes to fill.

But it was her philosophical reflections that were so captivating that day. That’s her in the vineyards checking in with the workers who are about to begin pruning. Note the moka coffeemaker on the portable stove.

She talked at length about how vineyard managers tend to focus solely on phototropism, the reaction of plants and animals to light. Geotropism, she explained, is equally important: the reaction of plants and animals to gravity.

Increasingly, she explained, our understanding of geotropism and solar radiation in the soil should be reshaping the way we approach grape growing.

One of her major long-term projects is planting woods around the family’s vineyards in order to regulate solar radiation. She’s thinking of the generation to come and the impact of climate change over coming decades.

There was so much to savor in our conversation. But the thing that really got me was when I asked her the simple question, would you call your wines “natural”?

Her answer: It’s not the wines that are natural. It’s the people, the winemakers who live their lives in balance with nature.

Alice Feiring once told me that she defines natural wine as an ideal, as in a Platonic ideal to reach for.

Chiara’s brilliant answer to my dumb question seemed to dovetail with what Alice told me so many years ago. It really captured, at least in my mind, the ethos of the natural wine movement.

Thank you, Chiara, for one of the most fascinating visits of my career. Your wines are yet another reason I can’t wait to get back to my beloved Abruzzo, a region I am proud to represent as its U.S. ambassador.

Something remarkable happened along my Uber ride from downtown Denver to Denver International Airport earlier this week.

Are you from Denver or are you heading home? the driver queried.

Back home to Houston, I replied.

Were you in town for business? What do you do for a living?

I work in the wine business.

What’s the best value in wine today?

Chilean.

Is red wine really good for your heart?

No.

What kind of wine do you like to drink?

Mostly Italian.

Why do Christians believe that wine is the blood of Christ?

I’m not a Christian, I said politely. I’m a Jew. But I believe that the Christian tradition comes from the Jewish tradition, where wine is a miracle.

A silence followed. I think both of us were eager to find out what would come next.

He was a Persian who grew up in a religious family in Afghanistan, he told me. No alcohol was consumed in his home or community. But he was curious to learn more about wine, he shared.

We talked about the city of Shiraz in Iran. We talked about Turkish wine.

And then — I’m not sure how we got there — we talked about the war in Gaza.

Our tone turned somber and introspective. We agreed that our religions all seek the same thing — to be closer to G-d. Politics and personality cults are what lead people astray from the divine word, whether the Torah, the Quran, or the New Testament.

When we got to the airport, he got out of the car to help me with my bag. We shook hands warmly.

I enjoyed our conversation.

So did I.

Generous Ramadan and happy Easter, everyone. May peace be on earth.

(Photo: the Brown Palace Hotel in downtown Denver.)

Nearly every time I open and pour a wine for a wine lover or wine trade member, I’m reminded of Roland Barthes’ seminal 1957 book Mythologies. In particular, the much-cited essay “Wine and Milk” wherein he explores wine’s status as a “totem drink” and he examines its “varied mythology, which is not embarrassed by contradiction.”

I’m also reminded of a favorite poetry collection from childhood, Where the Sidewalk Ends by Shel Silverstein.

The title poem, although it has no relation to wine, provides a powerful image — at least in my mind — for understanding where terroir ends.

As in the ne plus ultra that recurs in the epic poems of Homer, Virgil, and Dante, the place where the sidewalk ends or where the Strait of Gibraltar represents the demarcation between the knowable and unknowable world.

That same allegory can be applied to the notion of terroir. For many observers and participants in the wine trade, both professional and laical, there often seems to be a ne plus ultra beyond the canonical boundaries of terroir.

But where do terroirs end and begin and where do mythologies consume and re-elaborate those terroirs?

Oh that mystical French lemma terroir! I’ll define it here as the unique confluence of climate, soil, geography, topography, exposure, human tradition and condition that shape agricultural products through the observable legacy of their influence in aroma, flavor, and texture, or lack thereof.

But terroir is also our historical and spontaneous perceptions of that same terroir, whether informed or misguided. As St. Augustine might have said, terroir does not exist without previous and future experience. Nor can it exist without mythology.

In February of this year, I stood at the edge of one of Abruzzo’s most famous farms in Controguerra. That’s a view of the Zanna vineyard at Illuminati. Note the tendone training and the (unseen) blue marl subsoils that in part define the terroir.

Few Americans make it to Illuminati. But throngs visit one of Illuminati’s contiguous neighbors. They won’t even notice any of the surrounding farms. Where do terroirs end? And where do mythologies begin?

So much fun for me to get to pour at this year’s Slow Wine Guide U.S. tour yesterday in NYC!

I worked on the guide for three years as part of editor-in-chief Giancarlo Gariglio’s project to expand the guide to include coverage of U.S. wine. It was a great experience and he and I became close friends along the way. It was wonderful to see so many of my colleagues and I’m looking forward to presenting my Abruzzo seminar tomorrow in Austin and then next Monday in Denver.

There’s also an Abruzzo trade/media dinner that I’ll be presenting in Denver. There are still a few spots available. Hit me up if you’d like to attend.

The Italian wine world may be in crisis. But you wouldn’t have known that gauging the size and enthusiasm of the crowd yesterday!

It was also lovely to catch up with NYC wine friends I missed when I was in town a few weeks prior.

New York City has changed a lot over the last few years. And the restaurant and wine scene there has been impacted by industry trends (higher costs, waning interest, staffing shortages, etc.).

But for those who long for the “pre-Giuliani” City with a capital C, I highly recommend Keen’s steakhouse in midtown. It still retains that “old New York” feel and the food and wine list are top. I actually had a proper dinner with a bandmate there a few weeks ago. And yesterday, I stopped in the bar for a dry-aged steak sandwich before I got on the train to the airport. Delicious.

Being on the road with Slow Wine reminds me of touring with the band back in the day. Wish me luck and wish me speed as I light out for Austin this afternoon. We’ll be doing a ‘cue and honky tonk crawl tonight. Hit me up.

Houston folks:

I’ll be leading a complimentary tasting of two wines and a vermouth from the new Nizza DOCG at Vinsanto on Wednesday, March 27.

The winery I’ll be pouring and talking about is my client Amistà. But I’ll also be talking in general about Nizza and why it’s an appellation that you’re going to be hearing more about in coming years. 

Riccardo has graciously made 12 spots available for this complimentary tasting. And the classic Nizza by Amistà will be available for purchase that evening with a discount. 

And following our 45-minute tasting, we’ll all just hang out and open some bottles together. I know Riccardo is excited to host you. 

Amistà Nizza Tasting
Wednesday, March 27
Vinsanto (Memorial Green)
7:00 p.m.
complimentary

Please send me an email or DM me to reserve your spot.

I know it’s going to be a super fun evening and I look forward to reconnecting with you! Thanks, as always, for the support. Hope to see you then.

Tracie and I were thrilled to welcome Hue Society to Southeast Texas this week for the launch of their Houston chapter.

What a great night! Thanks to everyone who came out and made it an evening to remember. And heartfelt thanks to Giacomo Butera of Gruppo Butera here in Texas and Alicia Lini of Lini 910 in Emilia who donated wines for the event.

Please consider giving to the Hue Society fundraiser to bring its members to Italy for Vinitaly next month. They will be launching the new Verona chapter at the fair. Click here to read more about the organization.

Special thanks also to Carissa Stephens of Pur Noire for organizing and sharing the awesome photo!

Please consider giving to the Hue Society fund raiser to bring its members to Italy for Vinitaly next month. They are opening new chapters in Verona and here in Houston, where Tracie and I are hosting a party for their founder Tahiirah tomorrow. DM me for details.

The season for tasting is here!

Please join me next week and the following for the Abruzzo seminars I’ll be giving at three stops along the Slow Wine Tour in New York (3/19), Austin (3/21), and Denver (3/25). I’ll also be pouring Abruzzo throughout the walk-around tasting at each event and in Denver, there is still availability for an Abruzzo dinner that I am presenting that evening. See this link for registration info. DM me if you want to come to the dinner.

Just added: on Wednesday, March 27, I’ll be hosting a tasting for my client Amistà, producer of great Nizza, at Vinsanto on Houston’s westside. I don’t have details yet but it will be open and free to all. It’s going to be a great night and I’ll be hanging at the bar afterward. Details to follow please DM me if you’d like to attend.

On the horizon… The week leading up to Vinitaly, I’ll be staying at the Amistà farmhouse in Nizza April 10-12. If you are heading to Langhe before the fair or if you just want to check out the Bricco di Nizza (where some of Italy’s greatest wines are raised), please hit me up. I’ll just be hanging out and pouring vermouth and wine for anyone who wants to stop by.

And I’ll be at Vinitaly this year all four days. Let’s connect in Verona and TASTE!

That’s me, above, presenting a Prosecco seminar at Taste of Italy in Houston last month. I feel so blessed to get to do what I do for a living. Thanks to everyone for the support.

Please consider giving to the Hue Society fund raiser to bring its members to Italy for Vinitaly next month. They are opening new chapters in Verona and Houston, where Tracie and I will be hosting a party for their founder Tahiirah and team next week. DM me for details.

Writing on the fly this morning as I pack up after a week in New York City and head back to Texas.

But just had to share these pics from another incredible meal at Lucciola on the Upper West Side (right by where I used to live).

It was my third time at the restaurant and once again it just floored me with how good it was and how entertaining and engaging on so many levels.

The restaurant has become the unofficial NYC outpost of Champagne house Billecart-Salmon and they offer three different wines by the glass.

You can’t eat at Lucciola without the mandatory pinsa (flatbread) with mortadella and aged Parmigiano Reggiano.

Squid ink risotto topped with poached quail eggs, an homage to Andy Warhol’s 1982 “Eggs.” This was one of the best things I’ve eaten all year.

As Chef Michele Massari was preparting the dish, he bluetoothed Polaroids to a printer on our table. How brilliant and fun is that? I loved every minute and bite and the media experience made the dish even more thrilling.

Pasticcio made with maltagliati — cuttings from the kitchen’s pasta. This dish tasted like “going home.” Emilian comfort food. So good.

We were there because Lucciola is a big fan of Amistà Nizza, a winery I’ve been working with for the last year or so. The wines are extraordinary. Luca D’Attoma is the winemaker. Great people, superlative wines.

That’s my friend and Amistà owner Michele Marsiaj (right), who met me for a few days of dining in the city (we even spotted Rita Moreno at the restaurant from the night before!).

And that’s Chef Michele Massari. I think that he is one of the greatest chefs of our generation and one of the most creative and compelling interpreters of Emilian cuisine today.

Thank you Michele for a wonderful dinner and thank you chef for an unforgettable dinner!

Now it’s time to get my butt back to Houston. Wish me luck and wish me speed. Thanks for being here. I feel blessed to get to do what I love for a living.

Above: a view from the Controguerra appellation in northernmost Abruzzo, looking westward. Photo was taken last month when I was on the ground there.

Please check out Eric Asimov’s wonderful article on the wines of Abruzzo for the Times, published last week.

It was a thrill to see a major wine writer like him write about the region without eliding so many of the great producers there.

As Eric notes in the piece, there are just a handful of wineries that most wine professionals know. Historically, my colleagues and I — guilty as charged — have often focused on those “stars” without taking the time to dig even a little bit deeper.

I’ve been working this year as the Abruzzo growers’ association official ambassador to the U.S. I’ve been blown away by the quality of the wines and the talent and vision of the people I’ve been tasting and meeting across this pristine and breathtaking region (just have a look at the photo above).

I can’t recommend Eric’s column enough and I encourage you to look beyond.

And for those amenable to following along here, I’ll be posting about my experiences there — recent and future. I believe a lot of people are going to be surprised by what I’ve discovered.

Writing in a hurry this morning on my way back to New York City. Wish me luck and wish me speed. And don’t miss Eric’s article!