A one-day ride-with in Atlanta this week gave a beleaguered wine blogger a jolt of hope for our trade this week. (For laypeople, a “ride-with” denotes a “supplier’s” day “working in the market”; in other words, when a visiting winemaker, wine ambassador, or “supplier rep” spends a workday with a locally based distributor visiting clients.)

He was accompanied by the dynamic Niklas Foradori, above, winemaker for J. Hofstätter (his importer is the scribbler’s client) and the wonderful Wynn Pennington, a longtime veteran of the Atlanta wine scene, an ex-rocker and rave promoter, and one of the coolest dudes you’ll ever meet in the biz.

The tone was high and the speed was fast. Said wary content creator felt energized by the frenetic pace and the newly found camaraderie.

And then a chance encounter with a wine industry legend felt to him like a meeting with a sage Obi-Wan.

The wine industry is facing steep challenges, he conceded in a wide-ranging conversation about the state of the industry.

“It’s a matter of finding the wines that fit,” as he put it, the key to success in a rising sea of obstacles. It’s no longer about selling the wines you simply want to sell. It’s about finding the wineries that have a great product and are ready and willing to make the sacrifices needed to excel at this — let’s just say it — scary moment.

Thanks again to Niklas and Wynn. And thank you Obi-Wan! Stay tuned for a post about an amazing musical experience we had in Atlanta, one of my favorite cities in the U.S.

In other news…

A warm shout-out and congratulations to our friend, neighbor, and colleague Steven McDonald, wine director for the swank Pappas Bros. Steakhouse here in Houston and winner of the first-ever Michelin Texas guide’s top sommelier of the year award.

That Steven, above, on Monday, with my old friend Silvano Brescianini from Franciacorta.

Steven is a beloved Houstonian and a revered wine professional and mentor here in Texas. On Monday, at a lunch with Niklas, a leading Houston sommelier recalled how Steven helped him present his first wine dinner and launch his career as a top Houston buyer.

Steven is a family man (our kids play in the same middle school orchestra) and an extraordinary musician as well.

We all appreciate greatly that he brought this first-ever award home to Houston, the foremost “wine scene” in the state imho.

I’m super geeked to be returning to Vinsanto this Sunday with my bandmates (above) and not just one but TWO sets of music.

We’ve expanded our repertoire with a bunch of cool jams from the 80s (some that might surprise you).

We’ll be playing the main room at Vinsanto on the westside from 4-6 p.m., this Sunday, November 10.

No cover and Riccardo always has discounted by-the-glasses and Roman-style pizza known as pinsa. Katie’s vocals have never sounded better and Lucky’s bass is as mean as bayou alligator!

Please come rock out with us.

The next night, Monday, November 11, I’ll be returning to Vinsanto from 7-8:30 p.m., to present a super cool winemaker, Niklas Foradori, from J. Hofstätter in Alto Adige.

This event is also free.

Man, this is Italian Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer at its very best. And Niklas is super fun. And we will have some older vintages to pour as well.

The next night we’ll be doing the same event at 3 Parks (Old Fourth Ward) in Atlanta, Tuesday, November 12, 5:30-7 p.m.

I’m super stoked to be reconnecting with the amazing Sarah Pierre, 3 Parks owner, and her staff. I have a feeling that Hue Society will be there, too. Please join me.

DM me if you need more info or just show up. No need to register and no cost for any of these events.

In other news…

I’ve been taking a little break from blogging during the election season. Next week, I’ll pick up with my Roman tour and then my incredible Neapolitan tour. Can’t wait to dive back in.

Tracie, the girls, and I are disappointed with the election outcome, as you might imagine. But life moves forward, with school and music lessons and rehearsals and tennis clubs and poetry readings and band practice and our careers and our activism… It’s time for us to hunker down and be the best Americans we can be. We know we’ll cross the next bridges when we get there. In the meantime, G-d bless America and G-d bless all Americans.

My best friend from childhood is a devoted Trump supporter. He sends me roughly 10 Instagram Trump-focused reels a day, many followed by impassioned notes imploring me to vote for him for the sake of my daughters.

At least a few of those reels are about undocumented immigrants who have committed crimes in the U.S. You need to vote Trump to keep your family safe, he writes.

When I look in my daughters’ eyes, I see young women who have less robust reproductive rights than their mother did growing up.

I don’t see illegal immigrants lurking around every corner trying to hurt my family.

Here in Houston, we are neighbors with all kinds of immigrants and I’m sure many of them or their family members are undocumented. We go to school together, we go to work together, we eat at the same restaurants, we exercise at the same gym, we go to the same parks and museums.

My friend doesn’t write me much about climate change. As far as I know he doesn’t see it as a campaign issue.

But our family does. As someone who follows viticulture carefully, I am all too aware of the havoc climate change is creating in my professional community. And we live in a hurricane and tornado corridor with an increased threat of natural disaster all around us.

Reproductive rights and climate change action are two issues that Trump has opposed and Kamala has embraced. Those are the two top issues for us in this election.

But another overarching issue is the hateful and often overtly racist rhetoric that Trump and some of his followers summon when advocating for their policies. We do not want our children to grow up in a world where American leaders use division and intellectual violence as political expedients.

My vote was cast for the candidate I believe will best protect and bolster the reproductive rights and climate resources my children will need to navigate the world and their lives.

Their parents may not be what Trump perceives as ideal Americans. But they, like their parents, were born in the U.S.A., too. Please vote Kamala for them.

I am so bummed to miss my longtime friend, the epic wine writer Ray Isle, when he comes to Houston week after next for a couple of events promoting his book.

That’s Ray, above, executive wine editor for Food & Wine, and Alicia Lini when we all connected in NYC at the beginning of this year.

Man, I’ve known Ray since we were first coming up in the wine writing business. We were both contributing at the time to Gastronomica. And we both shared a deep interest in literature that overlapped with food and wine media. What a time it was to be in the city back then! The culinary hegemony was shifting from French to Italian and the global wine renaissance was taking shape more swiftly than any could document.

Ray’s been a great friend to me and I was thrilled to be able to give him a hand with a translation of Luigi Veronelli he needed for the opening of his book The World in a Wine Glass. (Thanks for the shout-out, Ray!)

Ray is one of coolest and chillest high-profile wine writers I know. He always makes time and space for everyone around him and he always approaches our shared subject matter with élan and grace. I highly recommend him and the book to you!

I’m so bummed I’ll be missing him: he’s doing a dinner at Marigold on Wednesday, November 13, and a reading and tasting at Stella’s on Thurs., Nov. 14. Look out for a link on the Marigold site for the dinner, email postoakhotel@nextjenpr.com to reserve for the reading and tasting.

Ray will be coming the same week that Michelin is announcing its rankings for Houston! The whole town is abuzz with speculations and predictions these days. Houston, which also happens to be Ray’s hometown, has been waiting for this moment for more than a decade. It’s a biggie.

And me? Ray won’t be here yet, but that week I’m…

– playing two sets at Vinsanto in Houston with Katie White on Sun., Nov. 10, from 4-6 p.m.
– presenting Niklas Foradori of Hofstätter at Vinsanto on Mon., Nov. 11, from 7-8:30 p.m.
– presenting Niklas again at 3 Parks in Atlanta on Tues., Nov. 12, from 5:30-7 p.m.

Please come out for the music, the wine, the people, and the book!

My goodness, so much stuff going on!

I’m hoping you’ll join me for any and all of the below. Thank you for your support and solidarity!

Davanti, Houston
Monday, October 28

There are two spots available for our Davanti wine dinner on Monday night. It sold out at 12 so we added a few more. Please email me at jparzen@gmail.com if you’d like to join. This will be super fun and it’s a great group. Tra will be there, too. 7:00 p.m. start time.

Vinsanto, Houston
Sunday, November 10

Katie White and I will be playing two sets of music starting at 4 p.m. There’s no cover and Riccardo will be pouring a discounted btg and serving pinsa. Last gig was over the top. Bring your axe and sit in! The girls and Tra will be there as well.

Vinsanto, Houston
Monday, November 11

I’ll be presenting a special tasting and talk with Niklas Foradori, winemaker at J. Hofstätter in Alto Adige. I’ve been running a blog for the winery’s importer and we’ve been having a blast. Niklas is a wonderful speaker. The event is free and open to all. This is one not to miss. 7:00 p.m. start time.

3 Parks, Atlanta
Tuesday, November 12

Niklas and I will be taking the show on the road as we visit one of my favorite cities in America. I’m so excited to be working with Sarah Pierre, owner of 3 Parks. And we should have some older vintages of the single-vineyard wines to taste at this event. Free and open to all. 5:30 p.m. start time.

Prossimo Ristorante, Tulsa
Monday, November 18

I’ll be giving a talk and leading a tasting on Vermouth di Torino. This is a fun one. We had a blast with this in El Paso and I’m geeked to dive back in. When was the last time you tasted 12 Vermouth di Torino side-by-side? This is another one not to miss and I’m excited to explore Tulsa. Here’s the link to register.

NYC
Wednesday-Thursday, November 20-21

I’ll be doing market work and pouring Amistà Nizza and Vermouth di Torino for any interested tasters! Hit me up if you’d like to taste.

Rossoblu, Los Angeles
Wednesday, December 18

I’m returning to Rossoblu for the last our last wine dinner of the year. Details forthcoming.

Photo @jeffreytkchan.

The drive up to the historic town of Genzano in the heart of the Castelli Romani hills is a key to understanding the unique topography and geology of this storied wine region.

That’s Alessandro Jacobini, above, scion of one of the Castelli’s most famous families. He and his wife Nina, an American, live in his family’s historic palazzo in the center of town. It’s just a stone’s throw from Lake Nemi, below.

Like its bigger brother Lake Albano just to its north, Lake Nemi is an ancient volcanic crater. Not only did ancient eruptions in the Castelli create these two magnificent, resplendent bodies of water. They also provided the volcanic ash — rich in organic material — that would be scattered for miles and miles to the south and to the west.

By the time of the Renaissance, the Castelli were already widely known for their superior wines — grown in volcanic soils.

The Jacobini were among the founders of the now legendary Fontana di Papa cooperative, which, at its peak, counted 400 grower-members. Named after a fountain built by 15th-century Pope Innocent VIII, Fontana di Papa produced some of Italy’s most famous wines in the second half of the 20th century.

Today, the Jacobini are no longer part of the cooperative. They are producing wines under their own label and they are part of a greater movement, including a newly revived Fontana di Papa, to re-establish the Castelli as a top wine destination.

I can report that the Castelli hills retain the same magic and even glamor that they did for Roman visitors in the 50s and 60s. I’ve been giddily surprised to learn how many songs were dedicated to the pleasures of the Castelli in that period. My favorite is the one by Gabriella Ferri (check out this citizen video for the nostalgic images).

Alessandro’s wife Nina runs a wonderful blog devoted to the Castelli, a great resource.

And if the trip weren’t worth it for the views and the wines, the porchetta is the best you’ll ever have.

One of the most memorable lines ever uttered at an Italian food and wine trade conference still sticks with me.

The theme of the panel was “how to make your product relevant in the U.S. market and how to get on buyers’ radar.”

The speaker is a well-known and widely respected buyer from a legacy wine shop and gourmet food market in northern California.

The number one thing you need to do, he told the Italian exhibitors in Houston that day, is to “make a good product.”

You might be surprised how many people expect to sell their wines in the U.S. even when the wines have little appeal for the target customer.

When I made my way to visit a wine grower in Rome’s urban wine country, I already knew that her product was good. I had tasted at the Taste of Italy trade fair in Houston where I consult with the Italy-America Chamber of Commerce.

Silvana Lulli, above, grows wine in richly volcanic soils just outside of Rome along the ancient Appian Way at her family’s winery Parvus Ager.

I asked her what made the difference in getting her wines to the U.S. Here’s what she wrote me (translation mine).

It certainly wasn’t easy. Having good wine isn’t enough. You need to know the right people to accompany you on this “journey.” But I believe that the thing that really makes the difference is being willing to put yourself into play on the ground. Today, people need to see the person who is behind a product that is produced thousands of miles away. For them, meeting me is almost like being able to bring them to my vineyard and my winery.

I really loved her fresh, bright, salty, citrusy Vermentino, one of her best sellers and one of the wines that is on its way to the U.S. now.

You can see the city in the background of the photo above. Her family’s winery is literally surrounded by urbanity. She also has access to one of the most beautiful stretches of the Appian Way. During the summer, she does an evening light show tour of her vineyards and the old road.

Look out for her wines coming to a shop near you soon! Congrats Silvana on your success! Well deserved!

Our household supports Kamala Harris for president.

We believe she is the most qualified person to lead our country for the next four years and beyond.

Kamala Harris is also the person best suited — thanks to her character and experience — to forge a new era of political partnership with Republicans. We believe that character matters.

*****

If elected, Donald Trump would continue his quest to diminish the role of the government in regulating business and enforcing environmental protections.

Kamala Harris will protect the institutions that safeguard Americans.

Donald Trump’s economic policies would enrich the rich alone.

Kamala Harris will make America a better place to live for a greater number of Americans.

Donald Trump would continue to vacillate in his support for reproductive rights.

Kamala Harris is committed to bolstering and broadening those rights.

Donald Trump would, at best, attenuate our support for Ukraine.

Kamala Harris will continue our unflinching support.

With Donald Trump, I believe there will be little chance for a two-state solution for Palestinians and Israelis.

Kamala Harris is the right person to craft a new U.S. approach to achieving long-term peace.

Donald Trump believes that immigration is the greatest problem our nation currently faces.

I believe that immigration is a vital element in our country’s long-term prosperity. And I believe in the American dream that any citizen of the world should feel welcome here and be given a chance to achieve that dream.

All human beings, no matter their national or economic status, should be treated with dignity and compassion. This is the ethos of the Kamala Harris ticket.

That said, Democrats must stop denigrating Trump supporters. The menacing Trump supporter is out there, for sure, spouting misinformation and hateful rhetoric. But the overwhelming majority of them are people just like me, trying to figure out their place in the world and to do what’s best for their families. I see that every day during my travels in America.

I am voting for Kamala Harris. She is the person best prepared to work for all Americans.

Friends are like good wine
And I’ve had the best…

So drink up.

Man, what a great night last night at Rossoblu where I presented a packed Abruzzo consortium dinner!

I have to give a shout out to my friends Chef Steve Samson (above, center) and his wife and business partner Dina Samson (above, left).

For seven years, I wrote the wine list at their epic southern Italian restaurant Sotto. It’s one of the chapters of my career that I’m most proud of.

Chef Steve and I met on our junior year abroad in Italy when we were both 19 years old. We became fast friends and it didn’t take long before I was heading down to Bologna with him to play a ton of music and hang with his group of childhood friends. His mom was from Bologna and he spent his summers there as a kid. I was so lucky to connect with him fresh off the boat! And I’m still very close to our Bologna crew.

After college, I headed to grad school and chef began working with the legendary Los Angeles restaurateur Piero Selvaggio.

One of Piero’s best friends was Charles Speroni, one of the major benefactors of the Italian department at UCLA where I did my doctorate. And through that connection, Steve and I were reunited again.

Somehow we both managed to move to New York at the same time. And again, our paths connected over great food and wine and a long history together. In New York, Steve would introduce me to another musician with whom I would play countless shows on the Lower East Side scene.

It just seemed to be destiny that one day we would work together. That moment came in 2009 when he and Dina opened Sotto. Chef’s cooking was praised glowingly by Jonathan Gold in the Weekly and Irene Virbila in the Times. She loved our origin story and retold it multiple times in her column. Los Angeles magazine called our list one of the best programs in the city.

Over the last couple of years, I’ve been presenting wine dinners at their downtown restaurant Rossoblu. And they’re going to be seeing a lot more of me in LA as we launch a couple of exciting new projects. Stay tuned.

Thank you, Steve and Dina! Friends are like good wine and I’ve had the best!

Photo by Jeffrey Chan.

There are a lot of high-end and high-concept Italian restaurants in Houston these days and I will always have a soft spot for the hand-extruded spaghetti al pomodoro at Tony’s.

But when people ask me what our favorite Italian restaurant in Houston is, there is only one answer: Davanti, where chef Roberto Crescini makes his own pasta and grinds his own meat for his ragù.

Chef and I have been talking about doing a wine dinner series for a few years now and now, we’ve finally gotten around to putting the first one together.

He, manager Oliver Calza (super cool guy btw), and I worked really hard to make this reasonably priced at $120 inclusive; see menu below. And for those who like the wines and want to take some home, there will also be a retail offering that evening.

The coolest thing is that Roberto is from Brescia! That city has become my home base in Italy over the last 10 years or so. Let’s just say that when Roberto and I connect, we speak each other’s language.

The seating will be limited to 12 people. Please email/DM me if you’d like me to hold you a spot (jparzen@gmail.com).

This is going to be good one, folks! Thank you for the support. I hope to see you then.

In other news, my Abruzzo trade dinner at Rossoblu in LA tomorrow night is full. I’m sorry that we weren’t able to accommodate everyone but I’m so glad to be beating the drum for Abruzzo.

I believe that our Abruzzo food and wine lover dinner on Wednesday night, also at Rossoblu, is almost sold out. But for those who want to grab the last few spots, here’s the link.

Wine Dinner October 28

Aperitivo

Crostino Con Baccalà Mantecato
Raina Umbria Bianco Grechetto 2023

Antipasto

Manhattan Clam Chowder
Marotti Campi Verdicchio
Castelli di Jesi Riserva Salmariano 2020

Primo Piatto

Large Rigatoni Al Cinghiale
Chianti Classico Riecine 2021

Secondo Piatto

Agnello alla Napoletana
Scuotto Taurasi 2019

$120

Wine pairing, tax, and gratuity included.