One of the great things about studying Italian viticulture is the field’s endless mosaic of terroirs, traditions, and hyper-local grape varieties. It’s encyclopedic in breadth!

I had never tasted an Aglianicone until late last year while visiting and working with old friends in New York.

Taking a glance at Ian D’Agata’s remarkably long entry for Aglianicone in his Native Grapes of Italy, I toppled down through the rabbit warren of putative mistaken identities. There is so much debate swirling around the origins and genetic makeup of this variety that there are only known unknowns.

At one point the writer and ampelographer throws up his hands, smugly writing that “the fun never stops when identifying Italian grapes.”

What I can tell you is that the De Conciliis Aglianicone was delicious, surprising me with its buoyant fruit and hints of earthiness, not as tannic as you would expect an Aglianico to be (De Conciliis makes some of the best Aglianico imho).

I liked it a lot and from what I’ve read, some are looking at Aglianicone because of its natural resistance to vine disease — highly important in changing climate times.

Sommeliers are going to have fun with this one.