The drive up to the historic town of Genzano in the heart of the Castelli Romani hills is a key to understanding the unique topography and geology of this storied wine region.

That’s Alessandro Jacobini, above, scion of one of the Castelli’s most famous families. He and his wife Nina, an American, live in his family’s historic palazzo in the center of town. It’s just a stone’s throw from Lake Nemi, below.

Like its bigger brother Lake Albano just to its north, Lake Nemi is an ancient volcanic crater. Not only did ancient eruptions in the Castelli create these two magnificent, resplendent bodies of water. They also provided the volcanic ash — rich in organic material — that would be scattered for miles and miles to the south and to the west.

By the time of the Renaissance, the Castelli were already widely known for their superior wines — grown in volcanic soils.

The Jacobini were among the founders of the now legendary Fontana di Papa cooperative, which, at its peak, counted 400 grower-members. Named after a fountain built by 15th-century Pope Innocent VIII, Fontana di Papa produced some of Italy’s most famous wines in the second half of the 20th century.

Today, the Jacobini are no longer part of the cooperative. They are producing wines under their own label and they are part of a greater movement, including a newly revived Fontana di Papa, to re-establish the Castelli as a top wine destination.

I can report that the Castelli hills retain the same magic and even glamor that they did for Roman visitors in the 50s and 60s. I’ve been giddily surprised to learn how many songs were dedicated to the pleasures of the Castelli in that period. My favorite is the one by Gabriella Ferri (check out this citizen video for the nostalgic images).

Alessandro’s wife Nina runs a wonderful blog devoted to the Castelli, a great resource.

And if the trip weren’t worth it for the views and the wines, the porchetta is the best you’ll ever have.