One of the most exciting and original wines our dream team tasted while on tour in Abruzzo earlier this month was the In Petra Trebbiano d’Abruzzo by grower and winemaker Franco D’Eusanio.

I had visited the famous Roman-era stone vinification vats in the village of Pietranico, high up in the heart of Casauria, one of the Pescara river valley’s top subzones. And that experience made it all the more exciting to taste a Trebbiano that had been vinified in stone vats similar to the historic ones.

Everyone in our group agreed that Franco’s In Petra Trebbiano was superb (“in petra” is Latin for “in stone”): rich gold in color from limited skin contact and slightly oxidative, this wine was all mineral and dried stone fruit, one of the most expressive examples of Trebbiano we tasted all week.

It was fascinating to hear Franco describe the winemaking process and how the stone acts as a natural temperature control.

So many projects like this end up producing mediocre wines at best or forgettable and even undrinkable wines at worst. It would seem that the romance of history sometimes eclipses quality. But not in this case. The caliber of Franco’s wine made it all the more compelling to taste.

It should surprise anyone: not only is Franco a widely respected winemaker in Abruzzo, he’s also the region’s resident philosopher — or should I say “vinosopher.”

He’s developed a nuanced “sensorial experience” at his Chiusa Grande estate where he invites guests to “feel” wine through color and music. He has devised an elaborate system whereby images, lights, sounds, and the evocation of emotions open the layperson’s mind to a broader and richer understanding of wine and its cultural and human value.

For the average wine lover, Franco’s “sensorial experience” is worth checking out, especially at dusk as the contours of the Gran Sasso in the distance are silhouetted by the setting sun. But even for the expert taster, the trip is worth it for the excellent wines. Our group also loved his pét nats and his Cerasuolo was a favorite of mine.

Stay tuned for more from Abruzzo this week and next.