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One of the things that a lot of folk don’t know about the Dispensa Pani e Vini in the heart of Franciacorta wine country is that the restaurant is arguably the number-one spot in Italy to drink classic method sparkling wine.

Franciacorta, of course. In my experience, there are more labels from Franciacorta on the list at the Dispensa than at any other restaurant in Italy. The selection of French sparkling wines is also robust there.

Over the years, I’ve enjoyed many unforgettable lunches and dinners there. And the to-go gourmet deli counter is extraordinary.

Ever since its beloved founder and chef Vittorio Fusari passed a few years ago, the restaurant has gone through multiple chef and ownership changes. There have been ups and downs but the restaurant has remained the see-and-be-seen dining destination for the appellation.

And every once in a while, during my two or three yearly visits, the kitchen there delivers something truly compelling.

The last time I was there in March 2023, one of the specials was the beet tagliolini in the first image above. Man, what a dish! The earthly flavors of the beets and the creamy texture of the pasta and sauce… It was one of the best things I ate all year. The octopus, also above, wasn’t half bad either.

Of course, no lunch at the Dispensa is complete without a post-meal visit to nearby Mt. Orfano and my friends’ winery Arcari + Danesi.

That’s a view of their southern-facing Chardonnay vineyard above. And just breathe in the wild flowers that grow between the rows, in the image below. I can’t recommend the restaurant and the winery highly enough