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Beyond fish tacos and one of my all-time favorite boat-to-table seafood joints, La Jolla, the town where I grew up, is not exactly known as a progressive or creative dining destination.

No, I’m sorry to say, the land of my upbringing is a place where you’re more likely to find a big selection of oaky “Chard” and “big Napa Cab” paired with steaks, scallops, and the occasional lobster. Until just a few years ago, culinary options were limited to safe, predictable menus.

That all changed when the Mexico-city focused Puesto opened a few years ago in downtown.

And that same group really broke it open when they launched Marisi, their gorgeously appointed love letter to Italian cuisine and wine.

Marisi was our family’s first fancy meal of the year. And both Tracie and I loved the traditionally inspired but creatively driven menu.

The service was also excellent, which is something that makes a huge difference when you’re fine dining with children (we were in La Jolla to visit my mom who just turned 90).

But it’s the wine list by Chris Plaia that really takes it over the top. I remember when he was first working on his program, he told me that he wanted to bring natural wine to La Jolla. And he did, making him the first wine director to preside over such an ambitious program for the “beach and tennis” Tom Collins/Gin and Tonic crowd.

When was the last time you drank a groovy wine from Liguria in my hometown? Never… until Marisi.

Don’t go for spaghetti and meatballs and veal parmesan served by old dudes in tuxedos. Yes, there is a tried-and-true La Jolla restaurant for that, too. No, go to Marisi. It’s not a cheap date but doesn’t disappoint. I can’t recommend it highly enough.