Man, what a trip to Italy! An evening in Brescia, four days of teaching in Piedmont, a night in Lucca, and a Saturday night and Sunday lunch coda in Reggio Emilia. A lot of travel and not a ton of sleep. But some great meals for sure.

I didn’t actually eat the tortellini in the image above (I had had tortellini in brodo the night before). But I just had to share this dish, ordered by my friends’ teenage daughter. She put a glass of Lambrusco in the broth like the old folks used to do back when I was a student here.

That was Sunday lunch at Locanda dei Pontieri along the banks of the Po River in Guastalla (Reggio Emilia).

This griddle-fired coppa was another highlight at Pontieri. Super fun place and highly recommended. Make sure to take a stroll along the river.

Stewed rabbit at Tre Spade in Correggio (Reggio Emilia). Forget Bottura! Eat here! Everything was off-the-charts delicious but the rabbit was a 2023 standout for me. Those are pickled onions in the sauce. This was so good. I’m literally salivating as I write this (sorry for TMI!). Paired with Lini 910 Lambrusco Metodo Classico. It couldn’t have been more perfect.

I found this never-before-tasted Prosecco Col Fondo in the most unlikely of places. Excellent. Note the Lalique stemware.

There’s really nothing quite as good as a plate of Tuscan beans, is there? Paired with a popping Ciliegiolo at Da Giulio in Lucca. This one of those big, classic osterias, with great food. Another solid recommendation (especially for a city with a lot of more touristy dining options).

Over the years, I’ve grown fond of the little hotel where I stay in Bra, Piedmont, where I teach. It’s called Badellino, the namesake of the family that runs it. They’ve really up their game at the restaurant in recent years, the wine list, too. Classic Piedmontese antipasti are one of my favorite things to enjoy and in Bra you have the added component of salsicccia di Bra, a raw sausage made from veal (not pork). Badellino always does it right. Paired with Cornarea Arneis. Super.

One of the interesting things about Bra is that because it’s the home of Slow Food, there are a ton of restaurant groups that try out new concepts there. The pizzeria 480Gradi has been around for some time. It has its ups and downs but on a good night, the pizza is wonderful. That’s a salsiccia e friarielli, sausage and a type of Campanian bitter greens not dissimilar from broccoli raab.

But the number-one best thing I ate on this trip was the tajarin with freshly shaved white truffles. The noodles were tossed in butter and then plated before being topped with the truffles. Three ingredients, plus the salt to season the cooking water. True perfection. But made even more special because it was served as part of a classic Sunday lunch in the home of my client — a friend and his family. Just wonderful.

Lots more to tell about my trip, including an unforgettable tasting. Stay tuned and thank you for being here and letting me share with you.