Above: the view of the Maiella massif from the Frentana cooperative in Chieti province on Thursday of last week.
On Friday of last week, the Consorzio dei Vini d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo wine growers association) published this video of its president Alessandro Nicodemi talking about the current peronospora (downy mildew) crisis in Abruzzo.
The average drop in production in the 2023 vintage in Abruzzo, he says, is 70 percent, with estimates exceeding 90 percent in some cases. The cause, as has been widely reported, was peronospora, downy mildew, a fungal disease that affects the vines after excessive rainfall.
Last week, I led a group of top U.S. sommeliers through the region. Nearly every where we traveled, we saw entire vineyards that had been left unharvested. We also saw many sites where the plants had lost all their vegetation.
Numerous growers told us that the problem was the continuous rainfall in the late spring and early summer. It rained for so many days in a row, they explained, that the muddy soil made it impossible to enter the vineyards with tractors to treat the plants. As a result, the fungal disease spread unchecked. Despite the dry and hot summer that followed, it was too late to stop the scourge.
Many wine trade observers don’t realize that organic farming (certified or simply practiced) is the norm in Abruzzo. That trend is owed to the fact that the region’s arid climate and excellent ventilation — nestled between Italy’s highest mountains and the Adriatic coast — keep the vineyards dry throughout the growing season. That’s what makes it so easy to farm organically there.
Organic growers were dismayed by their drop in production but they seemed, anecdotally, to have fared better than their conventional counterparts.
I have much to report about our tour and will be heading back with another group of wine professionals at the end of November.
But right now I wanted to bring attention to what is becoming an existential crisis for certain growers there. There couldn’t ever be a better time to buy and support Abruzzo wines than right now. Thanks for the solidarity.
Tracie and I will be leaving tomorrow for the
I spent Sunday morning watching “Pourquoi Israël,” Claude Lanzmann’s 1972 achingly beautiful documentary about migration to the country during the hope-filled years that followed the
A friend offered to give me a gun last night.
Like households of American Jews across our country, we have been glued to our television over the weekend as we watched the new, horrific war between Hamas and Israel unfold.
For years, San Diego and Long Beach wine friends have been raving to me about
On Monday, October 30, I’ll be leading