There’s a long Californian tradition of growing Italian grape varieties that stretches back to the early wave of Italian immigration to the state in the late 19th century.

Barbera, for example, was widely grown in what we now call California wine country. It was planted there by Piedmontese migrants who fled extreme hardship in their home country. Had Prohibition not come along, we’d be probably be drinking Californian Barbera instead of Cabernet Sauvignon today.

Over the last decade or so, there’s been a revived interest in Italian grape varieties in California. Idlewild Wines in Healdsburg became a pioneer in this movement with its focus on Piedmontese grape varieties.

The winery’s general manager, Thomas DeBiase, has now branched out with his own line of Italian grape varieties. It’s called Jupiter Wine Co.

That’s his super popular Vermentino above. You’ll find it, he told me, by-the-glass at some of San Francisco’s hippest spots. The label was designed by artist Evan Dorkin (who just happens to be an ex-schoolmate of Thomas’).

All the wines are spontaneously fermented. And little to no sulfur is added.

I really loved how varietally expressive these wines were. One of my big disappointments with Italian grapes grown in California has been their lack of classic character, probably due more to winemaking than to growing practices.

Thomas seems to have threaded that needle with this project. The Vermentino tasted like Vermentino (perhaps more peninsular than insular but totally spot on). The Sangiovese had that unmistakable plum note and the wonderful lift that fresh Sangiovese has when it’s good.

I also really loved how clean the wines were. That’s another tricky issue for producers of uninoculated wines.

His years of working with Idlewild, where the new line is made as well, have allowed him to hone his skill as a winemaker. And it shows in these fresh, youthful expressions of Italy via California.

The labels take it over the top.

We tasted the wines yesterday at his food and wine shop in downtown Healdsburg, Ciao Bruto (adjacent to the winery). I love chatting Italian wine with Thomas. He’s one of the best Italian-focused tasters I know and his approach to everything he does is so thoughtful and soulful. Profits from Jupiter Wine Co. are invested in housing solutions for the houseless.

Thanks again, Thomas, for a great tasting! And congrats on the success of your new project!