The Saint of Sangiovese Gambelli

Yesterday, I received yet another round of remembrances of the great Giulio Gambelli (who passed away a few days ago), including one by my good friend Francesco Bonfio, president of Vinarius, the association of Italian wine shops. He was an exquisite, deeply humble person whose humility was rivaled only by his extraordinary knowledge of Montalcino […]

“Patiently and phlegmatically”: Giulio Gambelli, more remembrances…

Photo via Decanter. A few more remembrances of Giulio Gambelli, whose transcendant personality galvanized a generation of Sangiovese growers, bottlers, shippers, and lovers… From Lavinium, a passage quoted from Carlo Macchi’s hagiography of Gambelli (in Carlo’s voice; translation mine): A few years ago I was with Giulio at the Isvea Laboratory. A woman approached us […]

The world of Italian wine mourns Giulio Gambelli, the great maestro of Sangiovese

Sit tibi terra [tuscolana] levis Juli. When Italy’s top wine blogger Franco Ziliani wrote me yesterday to share the news that the great Maestro of Sangiovese, Giulio Gambelli (left, photo by A. Pagliantini via Enoclub Siena) had left this world for another, the feeds were already overflowing with tributes for the man who shaped a […]

The once and future king of Brunello: Gianni Maccari.

Look at the color of Gianni Maccari’s Brunello. That’s the hue of classic Sangiovese. When my client Ethica Wines sent me to Italy a year ago in January, their Brunello producer Ridolfi wasn’t even on my radar. Montalcino is where I first became interested in wine (while I was a grad student in Italy in […]

Brunello, for better or worse (or how I learned to love the fruit bomb)

Above: I recently asked legendary Tuscan enologist Carlo Ferrini (and historic consultant at Casanova di Neri) what he considered his great contribution to Italian wine. “I took the traditional role of the Tuscan enologist from the cellar to the vineyard,” he told me. My brother-in-arms and close friend flying winemaker Giovanni Arcari often asks rhetorically: […]

Selvapiana, the gift of Sangiovese just keeps giving (and a photo of not so little Georgia)

It’s been incredible to see the heartfelt, poignant reaction to Quintarelli’s passing on Sunday. With the loss of Quintarelli and Gambelli, January has been a “cruel month” in Italian wine, as Italy’s top wine blogger Franco Ziliani put it. With uncertainty looming over Europe and an ever shifting wine industry, this passing of the old […]