The other Fiorano & the voice of the prince himself

Above: The 2010 Fiorano Bianco is made mostly from Viognier, which dominates its aromatic profile. I thought the wine was stunning, with great balance, acidity, and nuanced stone fruit flavor. The wines are not yet available in the U.S. but I recently tasted a bottle that had been brought here by Philadelphia-based wine professional Jason […]

Lacan, Petrarch, Nietzsche, Fiorano, and hieroglyphic wine

Above: I love this image of the 1994 Malvasia by Fiorano, snapped by Tracie B in her apartment the other day. It’s a quasi-film-noir take on a hard-to-wrap-your-mind-around wine. One of the things that intrigues us about wine is its mystery: who made it and how and why? A glass of wine can be like […]

Fiorano 94 Malvasia and Il Postino

The story has been told many times but was first recounted famously in English by Eric: somewhere in the 1960s and 70s, the eccentric Italian noble, Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi, prince of Venosa, developed what are still undeciphered methods of vinification and aging that allowed him to create unique, powerful, nuanced long-lived expressions of Malvasia di […]

From Houston to Roero to Los Angeles and back: taste Italy with me in November & December (includes unicorns)

From the department of “keep your butt moving and your glass full” (attrib. Dr. Frank Butler)… I’ll be heading out tonight for the town of Bra in Piedmont, Italy, where I’ll be teaching a seminar on wine writing for the Master’s in Wine Culture program at the University of Gastronomic Sciences — the Slow Food […]

Through a glass darkly: on critics, princes, and poets

“G-d is dead,” wrote Nietzsche (The Gay Science 1882). “The author is dead,” wrote Barthes (“The Death of the Author” 1967). “G-d is dead, Marx is dead, and I don’t feel too good either,” wrote the students on the walls of the 1968 revolution in Europe (quoted by Ionesco in 1979). In the demotic age […]