One night in Paris with Alice

Above: Alice F and Tracie B, two of my favorite ladies, and I went natural-winebar-hopping the other night in Paris. If you ever get a chance to go natural-winebar-hopping in Paris — where many believe the winebar concept and the natural winebar were born — with the leading lady of natural wine writing, Alice Feiring, go […]

Alice in the news, but not for wine (you’re not going to believe this)

Above: Alice, Tracie P, and I had dinner together last year in Paris and did some natural winebar hopping together. One of the things I admire the most about our good friend Alice Feiring is that she’s a great writer — a great American writer, a great New York writer — and she writes about […]

Natural Lambrusco in Paris (and late for sound check)

We’re on our way to sound check (and I’m running late, as usual) and I can’t wait to post about recent enogastronomic adventures. Last night, Tracie B, Alice, and I did drink this fantastic natural Lambrusco by Camillo Donati with Pierre at Racine. Ok… gotta run… more later… stay tuned!

Luigi Veronelli: “Lambrusco, the only wine of freedom.”

Special thanks to Alice Feiring for bringing this text to my attention. It comes from a speech that the legendary food and wine writer, editor, publisher, activist, and — yes — anarchist Luigi Veronelli gave in Reggio Emilia in 2004. Translation mine. Click the links below to read about the anarchists and political activists he mentions. I […]

New York USA America’s coolest wine city

Above: Dave Foss uses the Coravin on a Cirelli 2011 amphora Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo at Joe Campanale’s Anfora. Depending on the guest, Dave gracefully and seamlessly switches gears from über wine nerd to “you like Cab? I’ve got just the thing for you.” Some years ago now, when Milanese poet Luigi Ballerini (my dissertation advisor) invited […]

Sensuous world: Marx, Gramsci, Pasolini, food and wine

Just as nature provides labor with the means of life in the sense that labor cannot live without objects on which to operate, on the other hand, it also provides the means of life in the more restricted sense, i.e., the means for the physical subsistence. —Karl Marx, Economical and Philosophical Manuscripts, Paris, 1844 One […]

Our date with the City, part 2: the best natural wine bar in the U.S.?

Above: I may be going out on a limb here when I say that Ten Bells seems to have captured the title of the “best natural wine bar in NYC” but I’ll go ahead and say it anyway. The selection of stinky cru Beaujolais was pretty impressive, even after affable owner Fifi Essome had sold […]

Best definition of “orange wine” out there?

There really is no exact nor canonical definition of “orange wine” out there. But the best attempt to define the often murky and cloudy stuff was scribed by the inimitable Thor Iverson here. Eric was at the same dinner described by Thor, as was Alice. One thing you can say for certain about orange wine […]

Orange wine awaits at the beach

Above: Not everything we’re going to taste in San Diego on Sunday at Jaynes Natural Wine Summit will be as orange and cloudy as this Picrate (Chenin Blanc from the Loire) that Alice, Tracie B, and I shared last February in Paris. Seems that everyone who is someone is talking about “orange wine” these days. […]