Mourvèdre envy (and more on Giacosa)

Mourvèdre envy in Freudian psychoanalysis refers to the theorized reaction of a wine lover during her or his oenological development to the realization that she or he does not have access to old Bandol. Freud considered this realization a defining moment in the development of palate and oenological identity. According to Freud, the parallel reaction in those who have access to old Mourvèdre is the realization that others have access to old Nebbiolo, a condition known as Nebbiolo anxiety.

Above: Tracie B and I drank the current vintage of Tempier Bandol Rosé — made from Mourvèdre — by the glass with our excellent housemade sausage tacos at the Linkery in San Diego. Jay Porter’s farm-to-table menu and his homemade cruvinet are hugely popular. The food is always fun and tasty. Jay was one of the first San Diego restaurateurs to use a blog to market his restaurant.

Tracie B and I have had our share of great Mourvèdre lately: we were blown away by the flight of old Terrebrune Bandol — rosé and red — we got to taste last month in San Francisco at the Kermit Lynch portfolio tasting. As the Italians might say, we’re “Mourvèdre addicted.”

Above: Jayne and Jon serve Terrebrune Bandol Rosé in half-bottles at Jaynes Gastropub in San Diego — a great summer aperitif wine and a fantastic pairing with Chef Daniel’s scallop ceviche. I was first hipped to Terrebrune by BrooklynGuy: it shows impressive character and structure and costs a lot less than Tempier.

So you can imagine how I began to salivate like Pavlov’s dog when I read BrooklynGuy’s recent post on a bottle of 1994 Tempier Rouge that he had been saving. Like Produttori del Barbaresco, Tempier represents a great value and the current release of the red is generally available at about $50 retail — the upper end of my price point ceiling. In other words, it’s a wine that even the modest wine collector can invest in with fantastic results. Despite the acute case of Mourvèdre envy that he gave me, I really liked BrooklynGuy’s profile of this “natural wine” producer and his tasting notes.

Nota bene: BrooklynGuy and I are both slated to appear in Saignée’s 31 Days of Natural Wine series. My post is schedule for June 20 and you might be surprised at what I had to say. Thanks again, Cory! I’m thrilled to get to participate with so many fantastic bloggers and writers.

In other news…

Above: That’s my lunch yesterday at Bryce’s Cafeteria in Texarkana on the Texas-Arkansas border. Chicken fried chicken steak and tomato aspic stuffed with mayonnaise. Tracie B is gonna kill me if that gravy doesn’t… They sure are proud of their tomatoes in Arkansas and tomato season has nearly arrived.

So many blogs and so little time… I’m on my way back to Austin from Arkansas (where I’ve been hawking wine) and I wish I had time to translate Franco’s post on Bruno Giacosa’s decision not to bottle his 2006 Barolo and Barbaresco, the infelicitous manner in which the news was announced by the winery, and how the news was subsequently disseminated. Upon reading Decanter’s sloppy cut-and-paste job, one prominent wine blogger tweeted “note to self, don’t buy 2006 Barbaresco.” My plea to all: please know that 2006 is a good if not great vintage in Langa and please, please, please, read betweet the lines…

8 thoughts on “Mourvèdre envy (and more on Giacosa)

  1. Mouvedre…So hard to get into without some bottle age, but when it’s good, it’s GOOD. Seems so much like a product of yesteryears.

    Thanks for the shoutout and thanks for participating. Your soon to be better half (and already better looking half) is set for June 24th, so keep your eyes peeled.

  2. This post hit all of my gemini chords! First, i giggled re: Tempier as I first met you when you were tracking it down to pair with your evening watching American Idol! Yes, I have outed you! (I knew i had to meet you!) Second: The tacos made my mouth water! Third: the 20th is an auspicious day – i predict your post will be a hit! jp

  3. Thanks for all of the linkage JP, and for the props on Terrebrune. I wonder if they poured the 1987 for you. It was a stunning wine when I tasted it at a similar tasting here in NYC a year ago. It convinced me to buy a few bottles of whatever Terrebrune red is released.

    But more importantly…how do you stay so slender eating like that?

  4. As far as Bruno Giacosa’s decision goes, doesn’t it just mean that the year wasn’t up to his standard? For example, Apollonio winery has their “Elfo” line of wines which they release whenever the year isn’t of high enough quality to warrant the Apollonio name. I’d say it’s respectable to redesign the package of a wine that doesn’t make the grade. It doesn’t mean the wine is bad, it just isn’t up to the winemaker’s high standards.

    And man do I have Mourvèdre envy right now.

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