How Italians eat hamburgers (Italy’s hamburger mania)

Above: as far as Italian hamburgers go, my personal favorite can be found at Vittorio Fusari’s amazing Dispensa Pani e Vini in Franciacorta, where the Brescians’ already healthy appetite for beef has been augmented by the burger craze. Vittorio’s is unconventional but utterly delicious. It seems that Italy has come along way since Katie Parla’s often fruitless […]

Lake fish & Franciacorta at the “dispensary”

Marinated coregone (Coregonus lavaretus, European white fish) served with an “ice cream marinade.” When you really get down to the thick and thin of it, “there’s really nothing unique about the terroir of Franciacorta,” as one prominent producer told me when I was visiting there over the Thanksgiving weekend. With its marittime influence (thanks to […]