
Above: “37 Uve” (“37 Grape Varieties”) by Tuscan naturalist painter Bartolomeo Bimbi (1648-1729). The painting was executed nearly 100 years after the publication of the passage below and was commissioned by Cosimo III de’ Medici. The author of the below passage visited Tuscany when Cosimo II ruled the “Dukes State of Tuscany.” The painting resides at the Medici Villa Poggio a Caiano and was part of a series of paintings commissioned by Cosimo III to document the agricultural products of Tuscany.
A bit pressed for time this morning, I thought I would co-opt some content, as bloggers often do. Today’s borrowed post comes from ante litteram blogger Sir Robert Dallington (1561-1637). “As writer, traveler, courtier, and pioneer of taste Sir Robert Dallington made a largely unacknowledged contribution to the culture and thought of Elizabethan and Stuart England. He had an unusual and successful career: the poor Northamptonshire village boy who was to become the respected counselor of two royal princes, Henry and Charles. No satisfactory account of his life and work exists, since apart from a brief and incomplete entry in the Dictionary of National Biography all we have are a few scattered notices of his books” (“Sir Robert Dallington (1561-1637): Author, Traveler, and Pioneer of Taste” by Karl Josef Holtge).
In 1605, Dallington published A Survey of the great Dukes State of Tuscanie [sic], an account of his trip to Tuscany in 1596 (he accompanied his pupil, Roger the 5th Earl of Rutland, a member of the Manners family, “wealthy landowners, courtiers, connoisseurs, and travelers,” on Roger’s grand tour of Italy, France, and Germany).
I have a great deal to say about the passage below and I will turn this into a series of posts starting next week. In the meantime, please share your thoughts in the comment section (maybe we can get some lively discussion going here, since I believe the short passage reveals a great deal about Tuscan farming and winemaking in the pre-modern age).
I have introduced modern spelling and punctuation for clarity’s sake but have retained some of the Elizabethanisms where possible.
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From A Survey of the great Dukes State of Tuscanie, by Sir Robert Dallington, 1605, folio 32.
The Vine, which without comparison is the greatest commodity of Tuscany, if not of Italy, hath these uses. Of the Grape they feed, of the juice they make Wine; of the shreddings they make small bundles, like our Fagots of Gaule in Cambridge, and sell them for two quatrini a piece for firing; of their leaves they feed their Oxen or else dung their land; and lastly of the stones they feed their Pigeons, which after the Vintage they riddle out of the Grape being dried, and these they sell at 20 soldi the Staio [sextary].
There are diverse sorts of Grapes, the names of such as I remember are these: Uva Canaiola, good either to eat or for Wine; Passerina, a small Grape, whereof Sparrowes feed [hence the name, from passero, Ital. for sparrow], good only for Wine; Trebbiana, the best sort of white Grapes for Wine, whereof they make their Vin Trebbiano; Zibibbo, these are dried for Lent; Moscatella with a taste like Musk, not for Wine for to eat; Uva grossa, not to eat but for Wine; Raverutta, of itself neither to eat nor for Wine but a few of these put among a great vessel of Wine, giveth it a color, for which use it only serveth; San Columbana and Rimaldesca a very delicate Grape, either for Wine or to eat; Lugliola which hath his name for the month of July wherein in is ripe, better to eat than for Wine; and lastly Cerisana, named for the taste it hath like a Cherry, better for Wine than to eat.
If you like this post, I’ll transcribe more… In the meantime, please share your thoughts.




the painting is just gorgeous and it’s so interesting to note that they were using zibbibo…import from pantelleria or ancient export that made its name on the island later? prob the former…but this kind of documentation makes you wonder.
great post 2B :X
I love primary sources and it’s great to read this kind of intelligent blogging! I cannot comment on historic vines, but I can suggest that you enter something wine-related to my italy travel writing contest!
I spent a day this week with Leone Contini Bonacossi from Villa di Capezzana. His family has records dating back 800+ years. One of the interesting things he said about Cabernet, was that their records (in Latin and early Italian) called the grape Uva Francesca.
Fascinating post…thanks for the initiation
Great painting. I’ve never seen that before, but when I saw the thumbnail(on facebook), I thought it was my friend Shelton’s (sheltonwalsmith.com) anonymous school portrait painting: http://tinyurl.com/qn6mdt. There’s something pleasing about putting them side-to-side.
Do:
Neat post- nice to read that they had such great tastes back in 1605!
I find it interesting that he used the word Italy.
I have so many questions to ask that I wish you would comment on on the text:Zibibbo in Tuscany or was it the name for dried grapes made from Trebbiano? A few days ago I drank a spakerling wine made from the Passerina grape, it was from the Marche.Was there a difference between Tuscany and the Marche at this time.Sir Robert writes Italy- was there a concept of Italy at this time in Europe? His descripition of the Tuscan country side existed into the 1970.I too love primary sources and yes this is very intelligent blogging.
Great post…I love anything to do with the history of viticulture and oenology.
I like the description of the vine as food, drink and firewood for man, leaves for oxen and seeds for pigeons…the vine, the Tuscan equivalent of the American Bison :)